Food For Thought

[goldstar903]

http://www.bursigusa.com/bursig-center-lift-stand-black/

[hungryeye]

I think I don't have a sport bike....

[goldstar903]

The subject was "Food for Thought." Apparently this thread was not within your capacity to think beyond the initial use of this apparatus. This thread was created for the forward thinking individuals on this board. Maybe someone could build a suitable lift based on this design, and/or contact this company regarding building one for our bike.     

[hungryeye]

I looked at the design and is not usable on a heavy bike IMO, not even if it is made heavier. No food there.

[goldstar903]

I respectfully disagree. I would think that you would be much more hungry (hungry eye, pun intended) than you come across? I also think that you are turning a blind eye (pun) to this idea.  If I had welding skills I would definitely come up with some type of design. 

[hungryeye]

There is a scissor type jack that has been in use on cruisers for years, mostly when bike is on a full lift. I though of modding one of those to extend as wide as the engine guards with an upright on each side to lift on the guards and raise the front to remove wheel, then, any floor jack or bottle jack can lift the rear under the shock to remove rear wheel. That frame jack is under $100 and is operated with a ratchet wrench. Fully mechanical, no juice.

The other problem with the one you list is the price, $600 for the light duty, ouch. For a light bike you can buy front and rear paddock stands for under $200, I once made a pair of those with scrape iron I had lying around.

[Robert]

Interesting concept, no adapter plate for our bikes = cannot use. The link has a video and explains it a bit better.

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/bursig-center-lift-stand

[goldstar903]

I currently have and use the "Handy 16000 SAM Motorcycle Lift," and also use the smaller scissor jack to raise the rear about an inch, then drop the drop plate to facilitate the removal of the rear wheel. I was fortunate to acquire both the motorcycle lift and the scissor jack for $175.
Removing the front wheel is another thing altogether.

Robert, I realize that there is no adapter plate for our bike. Was just a thought for a possible future endeavor.       

[Robert]

Robert, I realize that there is no adapter plate for our bike. Was just a thought for a possible future endeavor.       

I thought it was interesting also but being technically inclined I looked at the possibilities. The problem is the sport bike frames seem to have holes in them at certain points. I cannot say this as absolute truth but all that I have looked at have what seem to be strategically placed holes. The other thing is smooth sides and not to much protruding out. Our bikes are smooth have none of these holes and although have some of the frame showing anything that could mount it to this jack is missing. I thank you for bringing it up it only underscores the need for a jack for these bikes.

I was trying to think of a way to make a  lift for the bike on the engine guards and the spring connection on the bottom. This is normally how I lift mine but I have a regular auto lift that works wonderfully for this. But most need something portable and small, I was thinking of something like the lever lifts they have for the sport bikes just for the engine guards. Example below.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/21884/i/pit-bull-spooled-forward-handle-rear-stand

I am just not sure what to do for the rear spring support. But with the front securely on the engine guards then almost any jack for the spring support would be fine. I believe the idea would work and would essentially work on the same principle as a center support but with a little more leverage. I dont think it would be expensive to manufacture. 

[hungryeye]

Here is what I was trying to describe, needs to be a few inches wider. top and bottom a fairly simple task.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/830378/i/bikemaster-heavy-duty-center-jack

[goldstar903]

I have the Handy Industries Air Lift (with ramp), front wheel vise and motorcycle jack. Once on the lift I secure the front tire using the vise. Then I use the jack under the motor using wood wedges and lift the bike ~ 1", then I can slide out the drop out plate and change the rear wheel. The challenge is the front wheel. I am going to temporarily attach a centerstand and while engaged (on a 3/4" piece of plywood) use a tie-down strap anchored from the centerstand to the engine guard. This of course keeps the bike from falling forward. I'll then have a friend sit on the back hopefully raising the front or using a jack under the front of the engine and slide a pair of jack stands under the engine guards. Another solution is once bike is secure (center stand anchored to the engine guards) set a pair of scissor jacks under the engine guards and lift the bike on each side until you have enough clearance to change tire.     
 
https://handy-lift.com/c/SAM-Lifts/

https://handy-lift.com/c/Motorcycle-Jacks/

https://handy-lift.com/c/CV-17-Cycle-Vise/

[hubcapsc]

https://sites.google.com/site/hubcapsite1/jack_adapter

I know you "old guys" don't like having to get down on the ground   

-Mike

[goldstar903]

Mike, you hit the nail on the head.  How are those Avons working out for you? I'm getting ready to mount my Avon's both rear and front.

[hubcapsc]

Mike, you hit the nail on the head.  How are those Avons working out for you? I'm getting ready to mount my Avon's both rear and front.

~1200 miles on the 1800's Avons...





The 1500's rear at ~3500...



That's the wear bar there... I am used to getting 7 or 8 K out of 1500
rear Avons...

I'm pretty sure it is these farm roads that is wearing my tires out...



-Mike

[semo97]

Us that have the 1500 built an adaptor that bolted to our lifts, there should be a diagram in the old tech, or shop talk. It may work for the 1800.