HF table lift.

[fudgie]

Looking at getting one here soon. Heard about folks switching out the front wheel chock. How do you mount it and where did you get it. Lets see your setup!

[mark81]

I recently bought a used one off craigslist for $175. Has the original wheel chock so can't comment on that but the lift works on the valk great.

[The emperor has no clothes]

I recently bought a used one off craigslist for $175. Has the original wheel chock so can't comment on that but the lift works on the valk great.

I'd recommend changing that chock. We have a member that put his bike on the lift, went in to get a cup of coffee only to return to the bike fallen over.

[MarkT]

Got a Snap-On 6,000# car lift from Misfit.  Installed a steel deck, removable rear wheel deck & ramp, front wheel clamp & scissors jack on it.  Got the clamp new at Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/Redline-Motorcycle-Bike-Table-Wheel/dp/B014PM4UNG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486971777&sr=1-1&keywords=Redline+Motorcycle+Bike+Lift+Table+Wheel+Vise  Has mounting bolt holes but was expedient for me to just weld it in place instead.  Very solid, works well. One caveat, I needed to weld a brace for the wheel stop.  





Also picked up a Black Widow scissor jack at Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009W997X6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Roadog]

   I too have the HF lift and it works great, no issues at all. BUT I did change out that Mickey Mouse wheel chock for a Handy made chock. About $130.00 thru Amazon. It came out of the box red also so it matches the lift, looks factory made on there  and is STRONG.  It also has a removable stop.   Handy is one of the company's that manufacture those professional lifts .   I also added tie down hooks to strap down the bike while on there.  DON'T use the hardware eyelets they are only grade 5 and WILL brake, ask me how I know.  I went to Jiffy Fasteners and picked up some 3/8 forged eyelets about $4.00 each.  They can save your bike.  There are a good addition to bike trailers too.

Roadog

[MarkT]

I usually don't bother to tie it down because with the clamp being as solid as it is, then add the solid Black Widow scissors platform jack - she ain't goin anywhere.  But I drilled a couple holes in the lift deck anyway to pass ratchet tiedown hooks into, on the suggestion of Chuck who restored George.  Didn't want him to get sick over worryin I might drop George... I mean George J who built the show bike was anal about it's paint and possible scratches, and Chuck had to be anal to restore it to perfection as he did - gotta respect that.  And I do - REALLY take care to keep George perfect.  Jade & Deerslayer - they are riders - a scratch here and there is just part of the deal.

[Harryc]

You guys with the HF lift tables, do you bolt them down to the garage or shop floor? I am guessing there are special concrete anchors for this. I've never had to anchor anything to concrete before (except for deck posts), thus the question.

[allanbegg]

TapCon anchors may be a good choice for you.

http://www.tapcon.com/

I get them at Lowes.

Allan

[fudgie]

TapCon anchors may be a good choice for you.

http://www.tapcon.com/

I get them at Lowes.

Allan

Id go with regular concrete anchor bolts instead of tapcons. They break easy.

[Bone]

Last summer I anchored a tire changer to my garage floor with anchors. Had some doubts the floor is really old.
Glad to say it held like I wanted it to with my first tire change.  I like the anchors I can remove the bolts
if I want to move the changer until it's needed again.

[mark81]

There is no need to anchor the harbor freight lift

[BigM]

One thing with that lift. I have it. Once you get your bike on the lift. You are there no place to put the kickstand down etc. have to hold the beast while I get off it. I put running boards along side on mine where I can put the kickstand down and also have a place to put my if if need to alone the sides.

[Brian]

HF sells a wheel chock that flips when the front tire enters it completely. I never tried the POS clamp that came with the lift. I had to drill a few holes to attach the new chock. Works well no problems to date. I still tie the bike down, added a few u-bolts in different locations. When removing the front wheel to rebuild the forks I just unbolted the wheel chock and removed it with the wheel in place. Of course I had the bike supported and blocked up to do this work. As with all work like this, if one does not have the mechanical aptitude, take it to someone that does. These bikes are heavy and can get away from you real quick. Have a helper there when getting the bike up on the lift. You can walk alongside it when driving it up on the lift if you are tall enough, if riding it up I recommend adding sides like is mentioned. I am getting too old to walk it up so making side ramps is my next project.

Good luck.

[Hooter]

I have the HF chock as well. Once you are in you are in. It's solid as a rock. I still tie mine down anyway as well.

[Roadog]

    After bike is secured in the Handy (brand) wheel vise I jack up the rear end and drop the center stand onto a piece of 1X4 about 24" long to spread out the load and it is 'ROCK SOLID' on there. Makes removal of rear wheel a breeze. That will give about 2" of clearance under rear wheel.  I use a scrap piece of 2X4 to slide under the rear wheel , helps to align every thing up for axle to slide thru. Sometimes I will unbolt the rear shocks to allow the swingarm to drop down a couple inches that can help depending on what maintenance you are performing .   I really enjoy my HF lift.  Also I don't bolt the lift down, there is really no need.  I can roll it around the shop with the Valk on it with no trouble at all. I usually lower the lift table all the way when doing that but there were times when I had to move it with the bike in full lift, and no trouble at all. It is very stable.
 
Roadog