Fuel rail T's

[Hook#3287]

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1998/GL1500C+A/CARBURETOR+TUBING/parts.html

While replacing the main fuel hose off the petcock due to it's crumbling end, the plastic T (#7) broke. It was pretty brittle.  

I'm replacing it with a brass T I found in the plumbing section of Lowes.

I now have to remove the hose sections #10 & 12 in order to get them over the brass T.

I've never messed with them before and my question is, are the 2 T's (#2) plastic or metal?

If they're plastic, I think I'll pull the airbox to get a better position, if metal I feel I can do it from the outside with needle nose.

Obviously, I want to avoid pulling the airbox.

Thanks

[Harryc]

Looks like plastic Bill ... you'll need o-rings too if you are removing the whole T. 

[3W-lonerider]

best way to keep from breaking T's is to cut the old hose off with a razor blade.
old hoses will get hard and well formed to the fittings they are on, trying to get them off by pulling and twisting will result in breaking plastic fittings.
cut the old one off and the new one will push right on.

[Hook#3287]

Looks like plastic Bill ... you'll need o-rings too if you are removing the whole T. 

Thanks Harry, guess I should have clicked on the part

[Hook#3287]

best way to keep from breaking T's is to cut the old hose off with a razor blade.
old hoses will get hard and well formed to the fittings they are on, trying to get them off by pulling and twisting will result in breaking plastic fittings.
cut the old one off and the new one will push right on.

Thanks 3W, hind sight is the best and I figured that right after it snapped  while trying to twist it.

But, it was pretty brittle, so maybe it's a good thing 

[Hook#3287]

Ended up pulling the airbox, it made putting the brass T on easier.  Got rid of those OEM hose clamps.

The secondary hoses and T's seem to be in good nick.

Lowes brass T  = under $2.00

OEM plastic T  =  over $12.00, plus a wait.



Now, getting that airbox back on.   

[Fazer]

Check our Dags web site for re-installing air box.  I did it with no problem.

[Hook#3287]

Check our Dags web site for re-installing air box.  I did it with no problem.

Thanks for the tip, I've done it about 20 or 30 times and it's never fun.

Used the strap and 2x4 trick, works good. Still a pita.

[Paladin528]

you leak checked it first right?

[Hook#3287]

you leak checked it first right?

Leak checked what?  The brass fitting?  That puppy ain't gonna leak.  It's a "PEX" fitting made to take over 50 PSI in domestic plumbing systems.  There's no pressure in the Valk's gravity system.  The OEM was plastic, was an easier fit and used the OEM spring clamps.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-3-8-in-dia-Brass-PEX-Tee-Crimp-Fitting/4743120

[98valk]

I used this fuel supply tee. it balances fuel hose length and flow to both carb banks equally. OEM setup is unbalanced left to right.

[Hook#3287]

I used this fuel supply tee. it balances fuel hose length and flow to both carb banks equally. OEM setup is unbalanced left to right.

Yeah, I noticed they were unbalanced, but figured Honda Engineers had it down and the carbs will only take what they'll take.

[Brian]

So this brass "T" fit just right in between the carbs with new 0-rings and did not leak? Pictures do not download for me , I guess my computer virus program stops them from showing up here. Or was this used on the supply fuel line from the gas tank that splits out to each fuel rail fitting? Sorry for asking, just a little confused on the use, sure wish the pictures came thru.

[jim@98valkyrie.com]

So this brass "T" fit just right in between the carbs with new 0-rings and did not leak? Pictures do not download for me , I guess my computer virus program stops them from showing up here. Or was this used on the supply fuel line from the gas tank that splits out to each fuel rail fitting? Sorry for asking, just a little confused on the use, sure wish the pictures came thru.

Brian, I hate when I can't see the pics either!! What Hook was showing was a new brass tee on the fuel line from the petcock that splits to each fuel rail fitting.

[Hook#3287]

I replaced # 7 plastic OEM T

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1998/GL1500C+A/CARBURETOR+TUBING/parts.html

With this.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-3-8-in-dia-Brass-PEX-Tee-Crimp-Fitting/4743120

No o-rings needed and I used hose clamps instead of the OEM spring type.

[Brian]

So this brass "T" fit just right in between the carbs with new 0-rings and did not leak? Pictures do not download for me , I guess my computer virus program stops them from showing up here. Or was this used on the supply fuel line from the gas tank that splits out to each fuel rail fitting? Sorry for asking, just a little confused on the use, sure wish the pictures came thru.

Brian, I hate when I can't see the pics either!! What Hook was showing was a new brass tee on the fuel line from the petcock that splits to each fuel rail fitting.

Thanks Jim, If I remember correctly I used a commercial pneumatic control brass tee that had barbed ends. Got it free from work. There a lot of options out there that won't break the bank.

[Paladin528]

as for the balancing thing.  Whats to balance?  So long as the float bowls remain full there is no issue with the length of the fuel lines.  This is no a pressurised system.  So long as there is fuel in the tank there is no issue with the length of the lines.

[98valk]

as for the balancing thing.  Whats to balance?  So long as the float bowls remain full there is no issue with the length of the fuel lines.  This is no a pressurised system.  So long as there is fuel in the tank there is no issue with the length of the lines.

if it was pressurized there would be no difference, although it could be measured and make a difference in certain applications.
 This is a gravity fed system based on head pressure inside the tank. low fuel level and leaning over in a turn could make a difference esp for the forward carbs which receive their fuel from the center carbs and not directly from the tank, can already make the front carbs run slightly lean. Factorypro actually recommends to be slightly richer on the needles for the front carbs to compensate.