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Author Topic: Suggestions & Preventative Maintenance Needed Front & Rear Wheel Removal  (Read 1390 times)
Whiskey Bravo
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Posts: 55


« on: February 15, 2017, 09:15:14 AM »

Hello everyone,

I've decided to bite the bullet and have both front and rear tires replaced with Avon's

I need to some  suggestions and some helpful tips as to what other service I should do while I have both wheels off (I replace the pads front and rear with factory OEM pads less than 1000 miles ago, flushed and replaced fluid at the same time)

I'm a little confused from the posts I've read as to whether or not to change wheel bearings front and rear (I have a 97 and from what I've read I understand the wheel bearings are a different size)

Further, I could use a few suggestions with the re-greasing the rear wheel and drive unit and Should I Replace The O-Rings Or Any Other Components?

Please feel free to chime in with anything else I may have missed or I should consider replacing

My bike is a 97 with approximately 65,000 miles on it

Thank you,  very much for your time and consideration

Whiskey bravo
« Last Edit: February 15, 2017, 09:50:57 AM by Whiskey Bravo » Logged
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: February 15, 2017, 10:04:56 AM »


I wouldn't mess with bearings that seem fine. I had a
front bearing go bad on my 97 and was easily able to
get it repaired at the local repair shop... apparently
the bearings aren't oddball or hard-to-find...

Some people only change the o-rings when they
need it (visual inspection). Some people change
them out every time as part of the routine. Sets
of the three o-rings are easily available and cheap...

-Mike

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Harryc
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Posts: 765


Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #2 on: February 15, 2017, 12:53:06 PM »

I'm one of 'those people' that change the o-rings, the thrust washer, and grease the final drive splines every rear tire change.

Thrust washer - http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/detail/honda/42616-maj-g20/b647829?m=151422&sch=30581

O-Rings - http://redeye.ecrater.com/p/18218041/final-drive-o-rings-for-valkyrie-polyurethane

Moly Paste - I use the Honda brand Moly 60 Paste. Others will tell you their preferences.

The proper procedure to grease the splines, replace o-rings, the thrust washer, and reinstall both tires/wheels is in the Honda Tech manual. I'd advise using it. Also while you have the rear wheel off inspect the dampers in the hub for wear and make sure the bearings rotate freely, smoothly, and without noise or lateral movement. Others would recommend also taking apart and greasing the drive shaft u-joint. I have not done that yet but probably will next tire change. There's really not much to do on the front tire except to check the bearings and clean and grease the speedo gear. Again there is an installation procedure in the manual that should be followed.
« Last Edit: February 15, 2017, 01:02:22 PM by Harryc » Logged

Jess from VA
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Posts: 30424


No VA


« Reply #3 on: February 15, 2017, 03:45:05 PM »

Metal valve stems!!!!
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Harryc
Member
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Posts: 765


Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #4 on: February 15, 2017, 04:21:25 PM »

Metal valve stems!!!!

Good point ... https://www.jakewilson.com/p/1753/-/162103/Myers-90%C2%B0-Tubeless-Chrome-Valve-Stem?term=1196640001
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gordonv
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Posts: 5762


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #5 on: February 15, 2017, 05:10:36 PM »

Doing the work yourself?

Just changing to new rubber? Already suggested, new valve stems, EVERY time.

Rear end maintenance by ChrisJ, posted in Shop Talk.

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1999 Black with custom paint IS

Jess from VA
Member
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Posts: 30424


No VA


« Reply #6 on: February 15, 2017, 05:15:29 PM »

Umm, new stems every time only if OE rubber.

If metal, probably good for 10 years or more.
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ValkISDan
Member
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Posts: 211


Forest Lake, MN


« Reply #7 on: February 15, 2017, 05:34:06 PM »

Metal valve stems!!!!
Flat tire on a mountain pass on a Sunday evening with no cell reception (bad valve stem). Hell yes to metal valve stems!
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Roidfingers
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Posts: 729


Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #8 on: February 15, 2017, 06:21:35 PM »

Easy way to press the rear tire back onto the
 right side is to use the handle of a hammer. Perfect size. wedge it between the left side swing arm and its almost in.
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Ramie
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Posts: 1318


2001 I/S St. Michael MN


« Reply #9 on: February 16, 2017, 06:44:44 AM »

For rear end service you can beat the write up by ChrisJ in shoptalk.
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/rear_end_service.pptx

For front wheel removal.
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/TireChangeSplineLube.htm
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“I am not a courageous person by nature. I have simply discovered that, at certain key moments in this life, you must find courage in yourself, in order to move forward and live. It is like a muscle and it must be exercised, first a little, and then more and more.  A deep breath and a leap.”
Whiskey Bravo
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Posts: 55


« Reply #10 on: February 20, 2017, 01:01:50 PM »

Thanks everyone,

With the helpful tips and suggestions:

I was only able to get the rear tire done so far… but I did change the valve stems as advised

Thanks again

Whiskey bravo
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N0tac0p
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Posts: 413



« Reply #11 on: February 21, 2017, 10:38:00 AM »

somewhere someone mentioned a better quality damper, ie tighter fit as well as having a metal sleeve?  info
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14774


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #12 on: February 21, 2017, 10:48:20 AM »

somewhere someone mentioned a better quality damper, ie tighter fit as well as having a metal sleeve?  info

Its the IS part rather than the ones listed for the Standard or Tourer.
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