Ken Tarver
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« on: February 23, 2017, 03:40:18 PM » |
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need a drive shaft for 1997 standard, looking at fiche and called dealer, says discontinued. fiche does list a shaft for 1998, but is different part number, and parts guy at dealer says they are different. anyone with experience on this matter?? is the shaft from year '97 & 98 interchangeable??
'97 part number is 40201-mzo-000 '98 part number is 40201-mzo-A00
thanks in advance for all your knowledge!
Ken
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98valk
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« Reply #1 on: February 23, 2017, 03:57:40 PM » |
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search tech board, been addressed in detail before by ChrisJ.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16779
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #3 on: February 23, 2017, 04:28:39 PM » |
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I've used both kinds in my 97...
-Mike
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #4 on: February 23, 2017, 04:37:24 PM » |
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I've used both kinds in my 97...
-Mike
bad pinion cups ?
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16779
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #5 on: February 23, 2017, 04:46:05 PM » |
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I've used both kinds in my 97...
-Mike
bad pinion cups ? Well, there was the time I totally toasted the pinion cup when the seal failed...   I replaced the shaft another time before that, stuff was worn when I got the bike... -Mike
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Ken Tarver
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« Reply #6 on: February 23, 2017, 04:56:06 PM » |
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Hey thanks CA, Meathead, and Mike for you help and valuable info...will be ordering the '98 shaft and give it a go... I should have come here first before calling the dealer.
Ken
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #7 on: February 23, 2017, 06:25:53 PM » |
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I have one of each and cannot find any difference. We measured every part of the two shafts.
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98valk
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« Reply #8 on: February 23, 2017, 07:05:28 PM » |
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I've used both kinds in my 97...
-Mike
bad pinion cups ? Well, there was the time I totally toasted the pinion cup when the seal failed...   I replaced the shaft another time before that, stuff was worn when I got the bike... -Mike just had my seal fail also after 24k miles since last tire change. just started to wear bad. manual states to change seal. I think every other tire change will warrant a new seal. found a ball joint boot that will fit tight on cup and be loose on shaft for movement. should work as a secondary seal to keep grease in area and water out. 
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Ken Tarver
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« Reply #9 on: March 04, 2017, 03:44:59 PM » |
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First, I want to give a "thank you" for the input of your experience with the driveshaft. I ordered the '98 shaft for this '97 valk I'm working on for a friend. I did not see any need to make any comparison measurements between the two different year shafts since someone had confirmed them being the same. So, I moved the associated components over to the new shaft, greased everything up and put it back in the final drive. Fast forward to completion of all the other work on the bike; I've been out riding around home base for the last 3 days. Everything seems to be just fine, as I haven't heard any breakage, grinding, scraping, or attempt to force an unwanted dismount. I say all is good!! So if you find yourself needing a DISCONTINUED drive shaft for a '97, mine and other's experience using one for a '98 seems to be the solution. If you are still nervous about using the different part number shaft...the bike owner did find some probably salvage '97 shafts on Ebay. Psssst, the new '98 shaft was cheaper than the used one.
thanks again Mike, Meathead, & CA, we'll be seeing you in Billings if your gonna be there.
Ken
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lljjmm
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« Reply #10 on: March 04, 2017, 07:22:03 PM » |
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For 98valk - what ball joint boot did you use on the drive shaft?
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98valk
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« Reply #11 on: March 09, 2017, 11:08:37 AM » |
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For 98valk - what ball joint boot did you use on the drive shaft?
I used 13025 http://www.suspension.com/universal-dust-boots.aspthis was after talking to their tech rep to find out how much stretch the boots had to determine if it would stay on the cup. It wasn't as tight as I was told it would be, although it is tight. I used a tie wrap and some ultra grey to make it more secured. u have to enlarge the small hole some to allow movement of the shaft. My original thought was to use 41701, but the rep talked me out of it. Now I know I should have bought the 41701. 
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« Last Edit: March 09, 2017, 11:10:17 AM by 98valk (aka CA) »
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #12 on: March 09, 2017, 01:27:22 PM » |
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I think that pinion cup boot is a capital idea CA.  I think when people get their Ujoint boot torn, or not properly on, a bunch of water runs down there (like on all day rain rides) and it can do big damage over time. Especially since the oil getting up onto the little bitty hole in the pinion cup is a really iffy proposition.
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98valk
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« Reply #13 on: March 09, 2017, 03:26:25 PM » |
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I think that pinion cup boot is a capital idea CA.  I think when people get their Ujoint boot torn, or not properly on, a bunch of water runs down there (like on all day rain rides) and it can do big damage over time. Especially since the oil getting up onto the little bitty hole in the pinion cup is a really iffy proposition. I did it because the seal failed and all of the grease was up in the swing arm. The cup and shaft splines were rusty a little and showed some wear, nothing major. Last time I was in there was 24k miles ago. I still contend those holes are for ventilation and not lubrication. These holes where clear as the gear oil ran out after I tilted the final drive after removal. The boot has to have a larger hole for the shaft so as the movement of the shaft forward and aft does not work the boot off the cup. My idea is to keep the grease in that area if the seal fails. Manual states change seal, as I've been finding out a lot of OEM O-rings and seals only need to be changed out every other time after disassembly.
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« Last Edit: March 12, 2017, 02:17:56 PM by 98valk (aka CA) »
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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