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Author Topic: Brake Lines  (Read 1364 times)
greggh
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Posts: 383


OMAHA NE


« on: February 24, 2017, 03:41:56 PM »

1998 Valk STD  114,000 plus
When should they be replaced and should i use OEM or other brand?

Please advise.

Thank you Greggh
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Bighead
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Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #1 on: February 24, 2017, 04:00:43 PM »

Problems?
If it ain't broke don't fix it!
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
greggh
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Posts: 383


OMAHA NE


« Reply #2 on: February 24, 2017, 04:11:35 PM »

not broken,
doing brake work befor spring just trying to cover the bases
THey feel a bit soft at times
I rather like preventative maint instead of damage control
Thought i would ask here first
TY
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fudgie
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Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.

Huntington Indiana


WWW
« Reply #3 on: February 24, 2017, 04:26:49 PM »

I just got some SS from ebay. Gonna do all mine and rebuild calipers soon.
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VRCC-#7196
VRCCDS-#0175
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PGR
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Posts: 6443


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #4 on: February 24, 2017, 04:37:58 PM »

I would listen to Bighead.

But if I didn't listen to Bighead.

I would listen to fudgie
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Bone
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Posts: 1596


« Reply #5 on: February 24, 2017, 04:39:22 PM »

Miles on the bike is a good thing city driving means more brake use.

From the Service Manual 

Quote
Inspect the brake hoses, pipes and fittings for deterioration,
cracks, damage or signs of leakage.
Tighten any loose fittings.
Replace hoses, pipes and fittings as required
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #6 on: February 24, 2017, 05:00:12 PM »


I like the OEMs...

-Mike
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #7 on: February 24, 2017, 05:09:25 PM »

I would listen to Bighead.

But if I didn't listen to Bighead.

I would listen to fudgie
2funny 2funny
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Bighead
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Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #8 on: February 24, 2017, 05:20:19 PM »

Funny huh?
I see so much much stuff replaced or tinkered with it  is laughable. Why would one take perfectly working parts off and replace with new that will do no better but the same job being done now. It makes Zero sense to me and all the Crab rebuilds and such. My bee has over 100 k and carbs have never been touched and don't need to be. I guess I don't see the need to needlessly tinker with something that isn't wrong.
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #9 on: February 24, 2017, 05:38:40 PM »

Funny huh?
I see so much much stuff replaced or tinkered with it  is laughable. Why would one take perfectly working parts off and replace with new that will do no better but the same job being done now. It makes Zero sense to me and all the Crab rebuilds and such. My bee has over 100 k and carbs have never been touched and don't need to be. I guess I don't see the need to needlessly tinker with something that isn't wrong.
I understand. I just thought it was funny the way Bill said it.  cooldude
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fudgie
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Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.

Huntington Indiana


WWW
« Reply #10 on: February 24, 2017, 05:51:03 PM »

Funny huh?
I see so much much stuff replaced or tinkered with it  is laughable. Why would one take perfectly working parts off and replace with new that will do no better but the same job being done now. It makes Zero sense to me and all the Crab rebuilds and such. My bee has over 100 k and carbs have never been touched and don't need to be. I guess I don't see the need to needlessly tinker with something that isn't wrong.

The rubber around my master cylinders is deteriorating. My rear caliper needs rebuilt and one of my fronts. I might as well rebuild all 3 and since everything is off of each end I might as well do the lines. Wont take much more.
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Bighead
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Madison Alabama


« Reply #11 on: February 24, 2017, 06:30:20 PM »

Crab rebuilds uglystupid2  2funny damn me not proof reading coolsmiley
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
Hook#3287
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Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #12 on: February 24, 2017, 07:46:29 PM »

Funny huh?
I see so much much stuff replaced or tinkered with it  is laughable. Why would one take perfectly working parts off and replace with new that will do no better but the same job being done now. It makes Zero sense to me and all the Crab rebuilds and such. My bee has over 100 k and carbs have never been touched and don't need to be. I guess I don't see the need to needlessly tinker with something that isn't wrong.
You're absolutely right about changing parts that don't need it, but not all bikes age the same due to different environment, preventative maintenance and owners.
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Bighead
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Madison Alabama


« Reply #13 on: February 24, 2017, 08:01:51 PM »

Agreed but whether it is 10 yrs old or 40 yrs old if it ain't broke don't fix it. Doesn't much matter how they age don't mess with things that don't need it is all I am saying.
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #14 on: February 24, 2017, 08:46:22 PM »

Personally, I'd go for the SS braided lines over OEM any day of the week. For starters, you will get a more solid feel in the brakes, and better braking overall. Generally I agree with the "if it isn't broke, don't fix it." But the OEM brake lines are a different subject. They get soft and expand with age and you can feel it when you apply the brakes. Replacing with SS braided lines will make a believer out of you, on my bike when I apply the brakes it feels solid....no give whatsoever.

I will say this....I've never overhauled my crabs, sure would like to know where I picked them up though.  2funny
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greggh
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Posts: 383


OMAHA NE


« Reply #15 on: February 26, 2017, 07:11:36 AM »

Thank you all for the appreciated info.
Anyone's thoughts on Galfer replacement lines?
TIA
Greggh
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Psychotic Bovine
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Posts: 2603


New Haven, Indianner


« Reply #16 on: February 26, 2017, 03:56:45 PM »

Funny huh?
I see so much much stuff replaced or tinkered with it  is laughable. Why would one take perfectly working parts off and replace with new that will do no better but the same job being done now. It makes Zero sense to me and all the Crab rebuilds and such. My bee has over 100 k and carbs have never been touched and don't need to be. I guess I don't see the need to needlessly tinker with something that isn't wrong.

My bike has had a wicked backfire that my brother and I have been chasing for 2 years or more.  We finally decided to rebuild the carbs.  We found that nearly all of the o-rings in the vacuum rails were dry rotted.  Not sure if this is the problem or not, since we still have some work to do before starting it.  The lesson is that things do need to be replaced before they fail.  And some things, whether broken or not, should be upgraded. 
Also, changing to stainless steel braided brake lines was the best investment ever.  The brakes have much better feel, no mushiness at all in the lever.  Best $100 ever spent on my bike.
« Last Edit: February 26, 2017, 03:58:47 PM by Psychotic Bovine » Logged

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Psychotic Bovine
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Posts: 2603


New Haven, Indianner


« Reply #17 on: February 26, 2017, 03:59:35 PM »

Thank you all for the appreciated info.
Anyone's thoughts on Galfer replacement lines?
TIA
Greggh

I am pretty sure my brake lines are Galfers.  Like I said, they made a world of difference in the lever feel.
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"I aim to misbehave."
Bighead
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Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #18 on: February 26, 2017, 06:22:10 PM »

Funny huh?
I see so much much stuff replaced or tinkered with it  is laughable. Why would one take perfectly working parts off and replace with new that will do no better but the same job being done now. It makes Zero sense to me and all the Crab rebuilds and such. My bee has over 100 k and carbs have never been touched and don't need to be. I guess I don't see the need to needlessly tinker with something that isn't wrong.

My bike has had a wicked backfire that my brother and I have been chasing for 2 years or more.  We finally decided to rebuild the carbs.  We found that nearly all of the o-rings in the vacuum rails were dry rotted.  Not sure if this is the problem or not, since we still have some work to do before starting it.  The lesson is that things do need to be replaced before they fail.  And some things, whether broken or not, should be upgraded.  
Also, changing to stainless steel braided brake lines was the best investment ever.  The brakes have much better feel, no mushiness at all in the lever.  Best $100 ever spent on my bike.

You can spend unnecessary money if you want. But why didn't you replace those parts BEFORE you started chasing a problem ? Because they didn't need to be replaced ?
Do you routinely change the brake lines on your car? Or if you have one take the carb off your car when it is having no problems just to rebuild it? I would say not.
« Last Edit: February 26, 2017, 06:25:41 PM by Bighead » Logged

1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
Joevalk
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Posts: 599


Santa Fe, Texas


« Reply #19 on: February 26, 2017, 09:51:28 PM »

Touchy Touchy people on here, replace lines if you think there is a problem, rebuild the calipers if you think they need rebuilding, rebuild mater cylinders if they need rebuilding. I've replaced my lines with SS and rebuilt everything on all my bikes with less miles. Carbs too even tho this subject is about brakes.   
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1999 Blk/Silver Tourer (Valkylac)
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Psychotic Bovine
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Posts: 2603


New Haven, Indianner


« Reply #20 on: February 27, 2017, 09:40:23 AM »

Funny huh?
I see so much much stuff replaced or tinkered with it  is laughable. Why would one take perfectly working parts off and replace with new that will do no better but the same job being done now. It makes Zero sense to me and all the Crab rebuilds and such. My bee has over 100 k and carbs have never been touched and don't need to be. I guess I don't see the need to needlessly tinker with something that isn't wrong.

My bike has had a wicked backfire that my brother and I have been chasing for 2 years or more.  We finally decided to rebuild the carbs.  We found that nearly all of the o-rings in the vacuum rails were dry rotted.  Not sure if this is the problem or not, since we still have some work to do before starting it.  The lesson is that things do need to be replaced before they fail.  And some things, whether broken or not, should be upgraded.  
Also, changing to stainless steel braided brake lines was the best investment ever.  The brakes have much better feel, no mushiness at all in the lever.  Best $100 ever spent on my bike.

You can spend unnecessary money if you want. But why didn't you replace those parts BEFORE you started chasing a problem ? Because they didn't need to be replaced ?
Do you routinely change the brake lines on your car? Or if you have one take the carb off your car when it is having no problems just to rebuild it? I would say not.

I changed out the brake lines because it increased the performance of the bike.
Also, on my Triumph Scrambler I changed out the headlight for an LED unit because it increased the performance of the lighting.  I plan on doing the same with the Valk.
As to the OP's original question. The Galfers are first rate, IMHO.  I can bring my bike to a stop with 1 finger, with a very linear feel.  SS lines should be standard on all bikes.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #21 on: February 27, 2017, 09:53:26 AM »


The Galfers are first rate, IMHO.  I can bring my bike to a stop with 1 finger, with a very linear feel.  SS lines should be standard on all bikes.

I so habitually use one finger, that I don't even think about it...



I think OEM lines offer great feel and utility. I replaced the front ones
on my 1500 a few years ago. I did numerous other things at the same
time (rebuilt master cylinder and calipers and obviously fluid and bleed)
so I don't know if they all added together or if only one of them
really needed done, but my refreshed brakes worked (and
continue to work) GREAT.

I have no doubt that SS lines are good, but most I've seen look like
whacky add-ons to me...

-Mike "brakes aren't for looks..."
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greggh
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Posts: 383


OMAHA NE


« Reply #22 on: February 27, 2017, 10:04:30 AM »

The SS lines a different brand,  or simply another name for the Galfer lines?
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #23 on: February 27, 2017, 10:17:47 AM »

The SS lines a different brand,  or simply another name for the Galfer lines?

Sorry, I was just abbreviating Stainless Steel... I got black Spiegler lines when I
got custom (longer) lines for my 1800. I don't know what is under the black,
but they work and look great.

-Mike
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Cracker Jack
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Posts: 556



« Reply #24 on: February 27, 2017, 02:24:21 PM »

Funny huh?
I see so much much stuff replaced or tinkered with it  is laughable. Why would one take perfectly working parts off and replace with new that will do no better but the same job being done now. It makes Zero sense to me and all the Crab rebuilds and such. My bee has over 100 k and carbs have never been touched and don't need to be. I guess I don't see the need to needlessly tinker with something that isn't wrong.

My bike has had a wicked backfire that my brother and I have been chasing for 2 years or more.  We finally decided to rebuild the carbs.  We found that nearly all of the o-rings in the vacuum rails were dry rotted.  Not sure if this is the problem or not, since we still have some work to do before starting it.  The lesson is that things do need to be replaced before they fail.  And some things, whether broken or not, should be upgraded. 
Also, changing to stainless steel braided brake lines was the best investment ever.  The brakes have much better feel, no mushiness at all in the lever.  Best $100 ever spent on my bike.

You can spend unnecessary money if you want. But why didn't you replace those parts BEFORE you started chasing a problem ? Because they didn't need to be replaced ?
Do you routinely change the brake lines on your car? Or if you have one take the carb off your car when it is having no problems just to rebuild it? I would say not.

I changed out the brake lines because it increased the performance of the bike.
Also, on my Triumph Scrambler I changed out the headlight for an LED unit because it increased the performance of the lighting.  I plan on doing the same with the Valk.
As to the OP's original question. The Galfers are first rate, IMHO.  I can bring my bike to a stop with 1 finger, with a very linear feel.  SS lines should be standard on all bikes.


Hydraulically, the ratio of the force applied to the brake lever to the force applied to the caliper is set by the ratio of the diameter of the master cylinder bore to the diameter of the caliper piston. That won't be changed by changing the brake lines.

Soft lines will contribute to the soft feel of the lever and less give from SS lines or even new lines will give a firmer lever but for all practical purposes will not increase braking performance. cooldude
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greggh
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Posts: 383


OMAHA NE


« Reply #25 on: February 27, 2017, 03:25:34 PM »

Great!
Fantastic information from Everyone!!!!
Thank you all for the much appreciated help.
Greggh
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Itinifni
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Posts: 108


Boston


« Reply #26 on: February 27, 2017, 04:07:23 PM »

Cracker Jack is right on the money.

It's easy to check the lines, first do a visual inspection of the outer sheathing, any splitting or cracking and the lines should be replaced. It most often occurs where the line flexes under normal use, on the Valk that will be the area between the bracket on the front fender and the upper fitting.
The rear line really doesn't flex much at all.

Now grab the line and have someone squeeze the daylights out of the brake lever a couple of times, if you feel any expansion of the line it means the braiding has degraded and it's time to replace.

Even if you don't feel any expansion you'll probably get a slightly firmer lever by changing to braided steel lines but you don't need to replace the lines.

One warning about using braided steel lines, if they rub against anything (as in a poor fitting kit) they will remove the paint in a hurry.

And by the way, I like tinkering with my bike, it's all part of the experience!
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Gabriel
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Posts: 224


Near Galveston


« Reply #27 on: February 27, 2017, 04:41:18 PM »

Rubber brake lines do swell over time and the real problem with this is not how well it stops but how well the fluid returns to the reservoir.
Often they do not allow the piston to return and therefore maintain some pressure on the brake pads.
It's not hard to diagnose this problem because the bike will harder to roll after applying the brakes.
However this is not the only thing that will cause it to be hard to roll, so if you have this problem just open the bleeder on that wheel that is causing this, if it's the hose the wheel will roll free because you just released the pressure...
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