Carb sync fan idea

[HOZ]

Never have seen this before but may be here somewhere. When I do a sync on my carbs I remove my right side cover and find the fuse for the radiator fan, take out the fuse and hook a aligator clip (with wire) to the fan side of the circut, not the power side. I then hook this wire to a extra battery and of course a ground wire. Now when you are doing your sync the fan can come on when it should by way of the temp sensor and cool the engine without effecting the RPM of the motor. Seems to be a easy fix for fluxuating RPM during sync proccess. I would think any 12V battery would work.   

[DFragn]

Great idea.
I imagine a 12v DC converter would do the trick too!

[HOZ]

Yes I would think it would, as long as the fan didn't draw more than the converter or battery charger could put out, I doubt that would happen, but something to be aware of just the same.

[Bone]

That is a good idea. Most people are aware of a problem but one person sees a simple solution.
Thanks

[fstsix]

Good idea 5 years ago La monster had gave some of the blower guys tip to install override switch to ground out thermal switch and help us stay cool in traffic use it all the time no problems with draw. of coarse only got 1 carb its getting late on the east coast still like that switch  

[RP#62]

Being in Phoenix, I have a serious garage fan (its required here).  I've found that if I set it up directly in front of the bike, the radiator fan never comes on.
-RP

[HOZ]

My only problem with a aux fan is the fact that it can be keeping your motor cooler than it should. Don't know if it is just the fact that it is running all the time with no imput from any kind of a temp sensor. Just my .02 not wanting to cause a p*ss*ng match or anything mind you. Have seen many posts on aux fans doing the job fine, just thought I'd offer a different take on the subject.

[RP#62]

No problem.  I've got a digital coolant temp gage and I've found I can pretty much keep the coolant temp at 150-170, which is where it normally stays at highway speeds.  If you didn't have such a set up, it would be good to have it regulated.
-RP

[fstsix]

As long as you dont go below 160*F your ect will not add additional advance. As far as your stock fan being jumped should not affect timing.

[HOZ]

As far as I know the way I do it the only thing that is affected is that you don't get the pull of the alt. on the engine that causes a rpm drop. The motor and all things hooked to it think its just running. The other thing is if you are doing this in the winter you don't have a fan blowing down the back of your neck freezing your *ss off and scattering what ever is not nailed down all across the garage floor.

[CajunRider]

As long as you dont go below 160*F your ect will not add additional advance. As far as your stock fan being jumped should not affect timing.

Wouldn't the thermostat keep that from happening?  I think it opens at 170*

[2qmedic]

I run funeral escorts and I installed a ground switch for hot traffic, stop light use. It works great
.
Remember that while riding-the motor is thermostat controlled.
while at a stop- the motor is fan/thermostat controlled.

You will only keep the motor from getting maxed out on heat vs making the motor too cool.

In heavy traffic the motor and oil will steadily be getting hotter and hotter and the fan will cycle on quicker and quicker.

 

[fstsix]

As long as you dont go below 160*F your ect will not add additional advance. As far as your stock fan being jumped should not affect timing.

Wouldn't the thermostat keep that from happening?  I think it opens at 170*

I should have clarified dont start balance unless over 160* to be sure ect cold start program has shut off timing advance. My bad  Could have a rpm change in the middle of your tune. I have Tel True oil temp always wait for warm up to over 160* before tuning or BLOWING my back tire off. It seems that my water temp and oil at cruising are 195*water 195* oil @ 75 mph.

[Robert]

Nice bit of work but not necessary. The idea behind the fan not coming on is the fluctuation in rpm between off and on so the simplest thing is to ground the fan sensor so the fan stays on all the time  while adjusting the carbs. This is of course if you do not have a big fan to put in front of the radiator. Also as said before the engine has to be at temp and the thermostat should hold it there regardless of the fan staying on.

[fstsix]

Robert i think the task was to not have a load on the motor at all to do tuning so outside DC was to be source ie external battery to run fan. I got in left field last night over this.

[Robert]

fstsix you were right the load is not the problem its the on and off of the fan changing the load. With sync of the carbs as long as the load is even no problem. As for idle mix adjust the same, if you are trying to adjust the idle mixture without a exhaust gas analyzer and you are relying on engine rpm to adjust then every time the fan comes on theres a problem. Its hard enough to get the mix right in the first place. I have adjusted all kinds of multiple carb engines and this is by far the hardest especially when you get real close to a good adjustment and this is by ear of course or even with a rpm gauge. The fan doesn't present enough load to worry about so no outside source is needed actually a slight load might even be better. If you worry about the load in general then you can raise the rpm to 900 factory spec or 1000 which should provide enough alternator output to cover the extra load with no problem,or attach a small charger to the bike while running. Again consistency whatever rpm you start with make sure that nothing outside of your adjustments changes it and your set. Whats really funny that temp is mentioned like the thermostat open or running along the road temp of the engine but in reality the carbs get pretty warm on these bikes after running awhile and that cannot be duplicated until you do just that run them awhile so when you adjust the carbs even with the engine hot one factor that makes a difference is the temp of the carbs and the intake runners. this does more to influence mixture than a variance of engine temp from 190 to 212 which is the thermostat setting on most Valks. Just as a after thought the closer you get to the optimum mix the harder it will be to determine where the adjustment should be. Another words you will be dealing with the engine running well and unless you turn the screw a substantial amount the rpm change will be very slight. The sync is easier cause you can see the difference on a gauge.

[fstsix]

Robert thanks for jumping in, Sometimes i try to keep it short and sweet and think any one can read my mind   I must admit (use guys) with all those carbs work harder than me for tuning   I do once at normal temp click the fan on while tuning and it stays on and i also run large garage fan across motor. For those with stock exhaust i have been told this will help prevent bluing on headpipe. plus the Blower creates lots of heat. Keep hoping Magnacharger will introduce inter-cooler still a lot hp hiding in this motor.Also as far as fan cooling to much and bringing temp down under 160* its all i can do at tuning to keep it cool never had that problem.

[Robert]

I also keep forgetting about your charger sorry about that but you know your right on the money I would have to believe thats its quite a bit easier dealing with the one than six, not to mention did you get the new carb that was talked about that increased the mpg and helps idle?

[fstsix]

Yes i did it 5 years ago after kinda complaining to Magnacharger About tuning issues with the HD 40 cv supplied with his kit bottom line after conversation was they were just trying to put a complete and economical kit together  .I was living in VA at the time of install and had enough with the CV and accidentally on way home from work off Jefferson blvd seen NOS sign at this speed shop so i walk in and asked if they had any experience with this carb so the guy looked at me with a smile says just a minute and this fella came out and said may i help you? now i am looking at all these Trophy"s and think WTH My name is Larry so still not putting the dots together we get into some debate on gravity feed motorcycle carbs and fuel pressure he wanted me to do open loop fuel return to reduce fuel pressure, but recommended that i run this set up all i can say is its a small world and was humbled to even see his bike in his shop that day. http://www.larrymcbride.com/

[fstsix]

A little help from a friend 

[Robert]

Sometimes when your used to dealing with the chickens its hard to see the eagles

[fstsix]

I also keep forgetting about your charger sorry about that but you know your right on the money I would have to believe thats its quite a bit easier dealing with the one than six, not to mention did you get the new carb that was talked about that increased the mpg and helps idle?

I had installed 45 HSR flat slide before anything was offered by Magnacharger But it was Bill from MC that gave some tips about this app. The 45 has 3 small ports in its idle circuit as the Kehin has 1 port The 45 picks up the vacuum signal better and makes for smother idle. And WOW did it clean up this motor (CRISP ) And 32 mpg if i act like Adult 

[CajunRider]

Nice bit of work but not necessary. The idea behind the fan not coming on is the fluctuation in rpm between off and on so the simplest thing is to ground the fan sensor so the fan stays on all the time  while adjusting the carbs. This is of course if you do not have a big fan to put in front of the radiator. Also as said before the engine has to be at temp and the thermostat should hold it there regardless of the fan staying on.

Hey... didn't think of that... that should work the same as supplying from an external source. 

Gonna have to go look for a ground point next time! 

[X Ring]

I run funeral escorts and I installed a ground switch for hot traffic, stop light use. It works great
.
Remember that while riding-the motor is thermostat controlled.
while at a stop- the motor is fan/thermostat controlled.

You will only keep the motor from getting maxed out on heat vs making the motor too cool.

In heavy traffic the motor and oil will steadily be getting hotter and hotter and the fan will cycle on quicker and quicker.

 

I also do funeral escorts in the Patriot Guard.  Can you let me know how you did this?

Thanks,
Marty

[fstsix]

Some eye candy, And morning Spider Man cartoons. And just think' all that on just the back tire. And for all us guys over 50 he is recovering from a stroke and still rides that Bull 

Larry "Spiderman" Mcbride Top Fuel Dragbike	powered by Aeva

[2qmedic]

Very simple job.
 
1-Locate the fan switch.
The fan on/off switch is on the left lower radiator corner. You can see it with
a flash light through the left pod (if you have an I/S) and has one wire going
to it. When the water temp gets hot, it closes the contact which grounds the
circuit allowing the fan to come on.
 
2-Splice another wire into the single wire (don't disconnect the stock wire) and reconnect the stock connector.
(Some have just pulled the electric wire and folded another wire into it and
reconnected. I couldn't do that with mine.)
 
3-Run the new wire to the new switch you are installing.
 
4-Attach the wire to the new switch.
 
5-Attach a grounding wire to the other side of the new switch.
 
6-Install new switch.
 
7-Turn on key, press switch and fan will come on.
 
8-Pat your self on the back and go inside and have a glass of tea for a job well
done.

Cheers