99 Valk Alternator

[Kevin Valk]

Hello! I have 1999 Valkyrie interstate and have been having trouble with blown fuses and keeping the battery charged. The bike's electronics will flash on/off as a indicator of a problem, but then it goes back to normal.

Yesterday, the electronics on the dash flashed on/off, then stayed off, finally resulting in the bike dying. The battery as dead. I bought a new battery, and made it just 40 miles and then the same happened.

I finally got the bike towed home, charged the battery and then started it. I put a volt meter on the battery, with it running, and the battery slowly drops from 12V to 11.9, 11.8 until the engine dies.

Any tips on buying a new alternator, or tips on installing one?

[hubcapsc]

Any tips on buying a new alternator, or tips on installing one?

The alternatives I know of for a new one are:

  OEM

  1500 goldwing - to use this you have to flip something on it, but it is
                             probably much cheaper than a Valkyrie one and you
                             end up with the same thing. You can search for this
                             procedure on this board, many people have done it
                             with good results.

  get one of those $150 ones from Amazon or some such, I think people
  have used them without any problems.

Installation tip: you don't have to cut the frame to get it in there 

There's little rubber dampers where the alternator slips onto the motor.
I've had trouble with them falling out right when you finally manage
to get the alternator almost back on... it might help to also get new
dampers that might fit tighter into the alternator...

-Mike

[Blackduck]

Being intermittent for awhile it maybe as simple as needing brushes.
Check for bad connections as well, that can cause blown fuses. Remember to check all the ground cables as well.

[sandy]

The factory manual has detailed instructions on how to replace brushes. BigBF's website has a video on how to remove the middle bolt on the alternator. It can be a bear.

[98valk]

just did my alternator @51k miles.  brushes were no where close to the line/mark requiring replacement. However the rear bushing was noisy which required replacement. Installed the NAPA bearing which is a much better designed bearing, clearances and internal grease used.

[gordonv]

So far all you have done is confirmed you battery is not being charged.

But why? Most likely it's the 55 amp dog bone fuse blown. There is a spare in the housing.

Charge the battery again. Start the bike, it'll be powered from the battery. Take a volt meter and check your voltage coming off the alternator.

This should all be in the Honda Service Manual. Section 16, page 353

[Lyle Laun]

If it's not the dogbone fuse, I've had good luck with these guys

https://www.amazon.com/LActrical-ALTERNATOR-Gl1500CF-Interstate-31100-MBY-005/dp/B01FH0VZL0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1488507698&sr=8-3&keywords=Valkyrie+alternator

Regards
Lyle

[The emperor has no clothes]

So far all you have done is confirmed you battery is not being charged.

But why? Most likely it's the 55 amp dog bone fuse blown. There is a spare in the housing.

Charge the battery again. Start the bike, it'll be powered from the battery. Take a volt meter and check your voltage coming off the alternator.

This should all be in the Honda Service Manual. Section 16, page 353

If the dog bone fuse is blown you won't be able to start the bike. It sounds like either new brushes are in order or a new alternator. I've also had good luck with the alternator Lyle linked.

[indybobm]

Meathead, are you thinking of the 30 amp fuse under the red cap on the starter relay? If the 55 amp is blown, the engine will start but the alternator will not be able to charge the battery.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Meathead, are you thinking of the 30 amp fuse under the red cap on the starter relay? If the 55 amp is blown, the engine will start but the alternator will not be able to charge the battery.

Maybe I've got it mixed up. I had to remove my alternator a while back to tighten the drive nut. Stupidly I forgot to disconnect the battery, which blew the dogbone fuse when I shorted the terminals on the frame.  I was thinking it wouldn't start later, but you might be right. Maybe it wouldn't charge.

[Savago]

One word of advice (actually 2): alternator bolts.

They like to get stuck in the engine block and trying to wrestle your way will result in broken bolts. Don't ask me how I discovered this...

A penetrating oil, a rubber mallet to knock them (i.e. vibration), heat (make the engine run a little if you can) and lots of patience are recommended.

[Steel cowboy]

I had the same issue as you Kevin, ended being the alternator windings. I purchased brushes before taking the alt. apart, but after I opened the alternator, the old brushes were still good. I purchased my new alt. from LA alternators good price and they warranty it too. I did not get the higher amp model since all my ( still to install ) extra lighting will be LED's, whitch have less current draw than conventional incandescent or hologen bulbs.
 Mine is an interstate model too, don't forget to reinstall the noise choke on the back of it, if it did not come with it. Grease the O ring around the alt. housing, as I accedently cut the O ring when I reinstalled my new one and got an oil leak. I also removed the center cover ( has the lock to remove the seat ) it made the removal and install a bit easyer. Good luck and just take your time.

[Kevin Valk]

Thanks for the info. The dog bone fuse is good to go. I did charge the battery back up, it starts, but the alternator won't charge, the battery just slowly dies.

I ordered a used one on ebay for $60 bucks to get me back on the road. In the meantime, I still ride, with a trickle charger on the battery when not riding. I do carry a spare fully charged battery in the saddle bag, if it runs low. I can't let an alternator stop me from riding.

I do plan on ordering a $250 rebuilt High Output from MARS, as I do have several auxiliary items pulling on the battery.

Any tips on pulling the alternator? I did manage to remove all (3) bolts with ease, but see that it will be tight getting it out of there. I assume that I need to order a new O-ring and rubber dampers.

[hubcapsc]

Any tips on pulling the alternator?

I've only done it once. Here's my plan for next time: don't be rushed. Pay
real close attention to how it comes out. Slip it back in that way. Some
people can just twist them out and twist them right back in. Some people
have to try it over two or three sessions and learn new cuss words in the process.

I want to be the first kind of person  .

-Mike

[98valk]

Any tips on pulling the alternator?

I've only done it once. Here's my plan for next time: don't be rushed. Pay
real close attention to how it comes out. Slip it back in that way. Some
people can just twist them out and twist them right back in. Some people
have to try it over two or three sessions and learn new cuss words in the process.

I want to be the first kind of person  .

-Mike

I removed the center piece screws and moved the drain hoses out of the way. I needed that little bit of extra clearance to allow removal. funny, took a few tries and then all of a sudden it gave up and positioned itself to come out.

[da prez]

  There was a reply to check the connections. I will go a little farther. Remove or disconnect all connections and especially the grounds, Clean and use dia-electric grease on them. Check for any signs of corrosion. To many times I have seen new batteries and alternators installed and not work because of a bad connection. I have seen many alternators and batteries replaced because of poor connections. Make sure the battery is fully charged . Alternators are designed to maintain a charge , not to charge a battery.

                                                    da prez

[98valk]

  There was a reply to check the connections. I will go a little farther. Remove or disconnect all connections and especially the grounds, Clean and use dia-electric grease on them. Check for any signs of corrosion. To many times I have seen new batteries and alternators installed and not work because of a bad connection. I have seen many alternators and batteries replaced because of poor connections. Make sure the battery is fully charged . Alternators are designed to maintain a charge , not to charge a battery.

                                                    da prez

di-electric grease does not conduct electricity, it is silicone.

[Valkpilot]

  There was a reply to check the connections. I will go a little farther. Remove or disconnect all connections and especially the grounds, Clean and use dia-electric grease on them. Check for any signs of corrosion. To many times I have seen new batteries and alternators installed and not work because of a bad connection. I have seen many alternators and batteries replaced because of poor connections. Make sure the battery is fully charged . Alternators are designed to maintain a charge , not to charge a battery.

                                                    da prez

di-electric grease does not conduct electricity, it is silicone.

+1

It should be never be applied between the surfaces you want to be in electrical contact.

[da prez]

So the war starts. Silicone dia-electric makes an air tight electrical connection. It can be used on sliding switches to prevent sparks (low voltage). Using on spark plug wires and boots seals out water and also makes it easier to remove when the time comes. I use it in the end of  my trailer plugs year around  and in the winter, it keeps out road salt.

                                                      da prez

[Steel cowboy]

I belive what would be used to create a better ground is a compound called by various names such as " AntiOx or Noalox)  and other names. The product is used in the electrical field to creat a better bond between dissimilar metals. Copper and aluminum are dissimilar but it's also used on aluminum to aluminum connections too. I used it on electrical service panels when I worked in new home construction.

[Valkpilot]

So the war starts. Silicone dia-electric makes an air tight electrical connection. It can be used on sliding switches to prevent sparks (low voltage). Using on spark plug wires and boots seals out water and also makes it easier to remove when the time comes. I use it in the end of  my trailer plugs year around  and in the winter, it keeps out road salt.

                                                      da prez

That's the difference.  You use it outside of the actual connection to seal out the environment and prevent corrosive interactions.   But by definition, dielectric means non-conducting, so it shouldn't be used in the contact-to-contact interface.

[Paladin528]

Never use di-electric grease on a bonding (ground) surface.  you will make the problem worse.  You can use it in connectors as when they are connected the grease is displaced to allow contact to be made.  This will keep the humidity and moisture out of the connector.
Clean the grounding surface and the lug you are going to connect to it and ensure a tight fit.  Then paint over the lug to keep the moisture out.

[gordonv]

When I removed my non-working GW GL1500 alternator, and took it apart, it was only the brushes needing cleaning. That was at 70K miles. Sprayed WD40 to flush out the carbon powder. Back in.

I figured I was about 60% done on the brushes. Good to go to 100K before inspecting again.

Still picked up a spare alt and have that at home.

But I would still take my volt meter and put it on the alternator while the bike is running. Confirm that there is no power coming from it first.