DIY rear brake pads

[NighthawkVTX]

Hey all, I've  never changed my own brake pads before, but it just kills me knowing how much a dealer will charge me.
I have a 99 IS, that, is beginning to squeal when breaking.
Just curious, how tough is it to change ot the rear pads on a IS?
Are there any particular tools I will need?
Thanks for your input

[hubcapsc]

It is easy, you can do it, I remember doing it when I first got my
Valkyrie.

It might not be a "good job", though, if you don't clean off the
caliper pistons some way... You new pads will be much thicker
than your old worn-out ones, so pushing the pistons back into
the caliper a little will be required. The formerly exposed part
of the piston you need to push back into your caliper will have
crud on it, and pushing that crud back into your caliper can
potentially cause problems...

There's people on here who will be happy to expound on the
ways to clean the caliper pistons, and you can search on here
for that subject being talked about...

There's a copy of the Honda service manual on here:
http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html

-Mike

[gordonv]

Also, as you push the pistons back into the bore (opening the pads), you push the brake fluid back into the master cylinder. If the MC has been topped up, then you will have to much fluid, so you need to keep an eye on it, or you could be spilling it over your paint, which can ruin it if not cleaned immediately.

[Hook#3287]

It's a very easy job.  You have most of the tools you need in the OEM tool bag.

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1998/GL1500C+A/REAR+BRAKE+CALIPER/parts.html

You start by removing the saddle bag, then removing the plug (#14).  This can be difficult and you might have to use an easy out if it's never been out, or the person there before you, over torqued it.  I 'never seize" them.

Remove the pin (#15) and the pads should come out.

What the other posters are stating about crudy pistons may be a problem, but before you attempt to push the cylinders (#9) in, try cleaning them with some wet 1000 or 600 grit sandpaper and brake fluid or brake cleaner.  Some have suggested using dental floss to do this, but I never have.

You don't need to push the cylinders in all the way and try not to move them in more than you need to get the new pads in.  I've moved them in with a long large screw driver, inserted and then twisted.

The pads sit in a pocket in the front, make sure they are in correct position before trying to install the pin.

Good luck. 


 

[Hook#3287]

Another thought, when the pads are out, DO NOT touch the rear brake lever.

[Hook#3287]

And another, make sure the spring pad (#3) stays in position.

[Gabriel]

I just did mine;
I removed the caliper because I wanted to clean the pistons, I removed the pads, pushed the break pedal to extend the pistons a little more and cleaned them with break cleaner.
You can clean them without rotating them, so don't use pliers to try to rotate them.
I put anti-seize on the pistons and then compressed them completely in and then cleaned off any remaining anti-seize.
I use a C-clamp and a piece of ply wood to compress the pistons, the wood protects the finish on the outside of the caliper and the foot on the C-clamp will grab both pistons at the same time for compression.

Think about replacing the brake fluid while there...

[hubcapsc]

This can be difficult and you might have to use an easy out if it's never been out, or the person there before you, over torqued it.  I 'never seize" them.

I didn't assert myself WRT the cover the first time I did it. Rounded out the stuck cover and
tried to drill it out. Defaced my caliper with the drill bit, and got a "new" one for $30 from
Pinwall. I assert myself now  ... and never-seize is good on the cover threads... kind of
scary to think of putting it on the pistons, though...  ???



-Mike

[Gabriel]

Been putting anti-seize on the back side of brake pads since 1970, since I did this for a living, I must have done several thousand over the next thirty years.
I use anti-seize on the pins and the clips also, the stuff does not migrate unless you put to much on.

Its best to loosen all the hardware before removing the caliper

[indybobm]

I do not think I would put anti-seize on the pistons before pushing them back in. The only thing I would put on them is brake fluid.

[Gabriel]

I do not think I would put anti-seize on the pistons before pushing them back in. The only thing I would put on them is brake fluid.

I don't care to defend my position but I am curious;
Do you believe that the small amount compound that the wiper leaves behind somehow bypasses the o-ring and mixes with the system brake fluid?

[hubcapsc]

I do not think I would put anti-seize on the pistons before pushing them back in. The only thing I would put on them is brake fluid.

I don't care to defend my position but I am curious;
Do you believe that the small amount compound that the wiper leaves behind somehow bypasses the o-ring and mixes with the system brake fluid?

I think it might mix, but would probably just be a no-op...

-Mike

[BINOVC]

I just did mine as well.
On the #14 plug, make sure you use as large of a flathead bit as possible, one that fits the slot properly.  Even then, that plug doesn't like loosening up without buggering up the slot.  I used my Dewalt electric impact, and it instantly unscrewed .  (If you don't have an electric impact, the amount of money you save by doing the job yourself will probably more than pay for one!  This is a great way to justify tool purchases!)
I believe the manual says to remove the rear wheel before removing the caliper, but this is not required.  You just have to remove pin-bolt's #10 and #12.  With #12, when you unscrew it you are backing it into the rubber boot (#11).  When re-mounting the caliper, don't forget to pre-position #12 back inside the rubber boot.
If you can clean your pistons without completely removing them, that's probably the better way. 
I decided to pump my pistons out with the brake pedal so I could clean them easier, and I was going to replace my fluid as well.  Mine did not pump out evenly, so I used small pieces of wood to block whichever one was coming out too fast.  You have to get them to come out pretty evenly because once one comes out you can no longer pump the other one.  It was also a bit of a PITA to get the pistons back into the caliper (aligning and pushing past the seal - I needed to use a c-clamp). 
It was also a PITA to bleed until I figured out which way to position the caliper so air wouldn't get trapped.  Replacing the brake fluid is much easier if you don't allow air to enter the system!
Once I had my pistons back in and new fluid bled, I alternately pumped the pistons out (not all the way, just about 3/4) and pushed them back, half a dozen times or so, until both pistons would pump out at close to the same rate.

[Gabriel]

Everyone needs one of these, it makes small work out of that slotted cap screw. (it's a must)


Use a Mighty Vac. or a cheaper equivalent when bleeding the brakes, this is the method that will save your master cylinder. Pushing a pressure cup into the bottom of the master cyl. when pumping the brakes, where it has not been for over a decade often damages the cup.

[indybobm]

I do not think I would put anti-seize on the pistons before pushing them back in. The only thing I would put on them is brake fluid.

I don't care to defend my position but I am curious;
Do you believe that the small amount compound that the wiper leaves behind somehow bypasses the o-ring and mixes with the system brake fluid?

My concern would be that it would stay around the seals and collect crud. It is not the same consistency as brake fluid. Everybody has their own opions  .

[Chrisj CMA]

There ya go... I didn't even know I had opions

[indybobm]

Good one! 

[Dorkman]

All of the above are good recommendations.  An easy way to clean the pistons is to soak a shoelace in brake cleaner and spin it around the pistons.

[Tfrank59]

that's a good one.  I've been lazy, I'll admit, and haven't yet cleaned pistons when I've done pads, but now I'm gonna and I'll try the shoelace trick.  One reason I'm going to do it up right this time is I'm putting on a new rotor as well. Thanks.