Valk on a Trailer

[Kidd]

Trailering my Valk  , what should I do as far as tying it down , with it leaning on kick stand or straight up ??


Thanks

[_Sheffjs_]

Never on the k stand.  Best to get a wheel stand. I used one like this and it helps in the garage as well
 
https://bestchoiceproducts.com/products/best-choice-products-adjustable-motorcycle-stand-wheel-chock-upright-1800lbs-capacity?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=googlepla&variant=24885537411&gclid=Cj0KEQiAgJTGBRDLr5_az_Ouk44BEiQAIxaA4vVmRyE4KrkFQ1dW5qMBg2184q9mG2YjIzo_GBReQUgaAvYQ8P8HAQ

[idcrewdawg]

Put it straight up. Go from the handlebars between cowlings to the trailer as wide as possible. Compress the shocks over halfway (make sure not to flatten the tire, just compress it). Then from the rear, using the passenger handles go out 45 degrees from the bike to the trailer pulling on the front straps so that you make forward and back tension, as well as side to side tension. Don't allow the extra ends of the straps to hang loose otherwise they will flop against the bike and scratch the paint. If you can make sure your front tire touches the front of the trailer if that's not possible that's okay.

[Kidd]

I don't see from the HB  through the  cowling  , besides I have read where the HB can come lose  and turn if connected in the wrong place , they can spin around

Thanks Guys

[Bill Havins]

 Just what idcrewdawg said.  I hauled my racers in a van or trailer many, many times and often for hundreds of miles.

The point is to compress the suspension enough that the tires grip firmly.  The angles of the four tie-downs have to keep tension on the suspension while preventing the bike from "flopping" (a 45° angle to the bike works well).  The forward tie-downs should be attached to the trailer forward of the front axle; the rear tie-downs should attach to the trailer to the rear of the back axle.  By compressing the suspension it ensures the bike takes bumps well, but is never able to "free itself" from the tension of the straps.

And, the point about securing the loose ends of the straps is very important.  If you don't they will flap and whip against the paint job and really tear it up.

Once tied down, sit on the bike and see if you can rock it side to side without loosening things.  When tied down well, you should be able to sit on the bike and throw your weight around without the bike moving from its position.  If the front wheel comes loose, you need to move the forward tie-downs to a position farther forward on the trailer (about a 45° angle (or less) to the lengthwise axis of the bike.

Idcrewdawg got it exactly right!

Bill

P.S.  I sold my last Moto Guzzi to a guy from Nebraska - met him in Oklahoma City to transfer the bike to his trailer.  My son (a former large wheel mechanic and wrecker driver in the Army) and I cautioned him that he had not tied the bike down properly.  He wouldn't listen and I believe the bike fell from the trailer at a speed of 70 MPH.  Loss of a wonderful Guzzi!

[Kidd]

Thanks again
I have hauled a Valk in my PU bed from klamath falls Oregon to home , but on the old Valks  , there were many things to tie to , no plastic  to get in the way like our new ones have

[hubcapsc]

You can hook to the motor guards... the handlebars are OK
if you don't hook them somewhere that leverage can spin them...
You'll have to look at yours and your risers and the angles
involved to decide about that. Once you find a good place
and get the forks compressed some you're mostly done. If
you find someplace you can tie off the rear so it won't slide
around it would be good, or else you could just not drive
like a maniac  and hope for no reasons to do emergency
maneuvers...

One of those two places, with the angle of the tie-downs around
45 degrees without the tie-downs scrubbing your paint or flapping
in the wind.

Once it is tied down, I trust the ribs in the bottom of the
pickup bed to do the job of a wheel-chock, but it is obviously
a good thing to have a sturdy wheel-chock.

-Mike

[Kidd]

No  wheel-chock  and it's going on a trailer , not a truck
May bolt a couple of 2x4s   at the front to hold the front tine in place

Tie downs will be grab bars and engine guards , maybe remove the seat/side covers  for access to the frame , don't know what kind of compression I can get from those angles , guess we'll  find out

BTW  , I have seen bikes hauled  leaning on the side stand  , that's why I asked

[idcrewdawg]

I've hauled across some of the worst roads in America. The kind that make your head hit the roof of your car because the road sucks so bad. I know what worked well, and seen what hasn't worked well.

You'll have to excuse my crude drawings, as I'm not anywhere close to artistic.

This is the top view, the red lines are the straps.



I didn't get any movement on my handlebar when I did it this way, and traveled through Louisiana, and Texas (worst roads and are close if not worse than what Nebraska had). The reason you don't want to use the engine guards for a tie down point is it's too low on the bike, and won't provide lateral stability should you need to swerve or go over a curb when making a corner while trying to avoid someone else driving into you. If you attach it to the engine guards, have something else higher up to provide some extra lateral stability.

This second picture is the side view. Again, I apologize about the shitty artwork.



When looking at this, you can see the forward and backward stability. This is for when you accelerate, or brake. The rear straps being at 45 from the bike will add additional stability that is lacking at the front due to the cowlings being in the way for a no kidding 45 degree tie down configuration.

To secure the loose ends of the straps, use rubber bands or zip-ties. I prefer rubber bands so I don't have to worry about clipping the strap.

Oh, and you don't want it on the kickstand because when you hit a bump, there is no room for the bike to compress with the stand under it. On top of that, when you secure the forks and rear, when compressing the shock via the straps, the kickstand will prevent a good secure setup.

[idcrewdawg]

Here's a good video that shows better than what I could articulate.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wM7m4LmzlNM

[Kidd]

Hey , in your drawing , you got the color of my  Kerry , right , thanks

I am aware  of the tie down system  , however , I disagree  with the rear  straps pulling  back as I would have them straight out to the side or slightly  forward , maybe I am wrong but that seems logical

Thank you , Gentleman

[The emperor has no clothes]

Hey , in your drawing , you got the color of my  Kerry , right , thanks

I am aware  of the tie down system  , however , I disagree  with the rear  straps pulling  back as I would have them straight out to the side or slightly  forward , maybe I am wrong but that seems logical

Thank you , Gentleman

No, put them going back at preferably a 45* like they said. I will add my 2 cents in here. Don't use the handlebars up front. I'm not familiar with the triple tree of the 1800, but if you can't use that use the engine guards.

[hubcapsc]

Hey , in your drawing , you got the color of my  Kerry , right , thanks

I am aware  of the tie down system  , however , I disagree  with the rear  straps pulling  back as I would have them straight out to the side or slightly  forward , maybe I am wrong but that seems logical

Thank you , Gentleman

No, put them going back at preferably a 45* like they said. I will add my 2 cents in here. Don't use the handlebars up front. I'm not familiar with the triple tree of the 1800, but if you can't use that use the engine guards.

One guy pulling forward, one guy pulling back - ain't going nowhere 

-Mike

[idcrewdawg]

Hey , in your drawing , you got the color of my  Kerry , right , thanks

I am aware  of the tie down system  , however , I disagree  with the rear  straps pulling  back as I would have them straight out to the side or slightly  forward , maybe I am wrong but that seems logical

Thank you , Gentleman

Straight out would be better than forward, but does nothing in regards to security. You'd be better off with nothing than straight out. Forward you'll negate the front straps.

[_Sheffjs_]

No, put them going back at preferably a 45* like they said. I will add my 2 cents in here. Don't use the handlebars up front. I'm not familiar with the triple tree of the 1800, but if you can't use that use the engine guards.

Yep'  

Just did this exactly as Meat said last week.   Worked great, I have wheel stands every time as well. Just makes life better.  

[idcrewdawg]

Here's a pic of how I did the front end of mine to travel across the country. I had to put her 90 off of what I'd normally use because I just didn't have the room. She traveled all the way across the country like that with zero issues. The straps in the photo are loose, but that's cause I hadn't secured them yet. I was still working out if I was happy with the configuration. The left handle bar was within 6 inches of the front of the bus. Neither touched, and neither moved the entire way.

[Kidd]

What Pic ?

My trailer has 4 foot sides as well as 4 foot front  , all straps pulling towards the front  to some degree .
So , it can not go forward under and conditions  because of the  front  sheet of expanded metal  with square tubing ,  see first photo

[idcrewdawg]

Let us know what configuration you decide on, and let us know how it worked out.

[bscrive]

I have trailered bikes many times and I have never use the handlebars.  I always use the triple trees or the engine guard.  The valk was originally crated using the engine guards as the hold down points.  I think the Honda engineers would not have let them transport them like that if something else was the best position.

The front tire in a motorcycle wheel chock. One on each engine guard pulling slightly forward and one on each side on the rear pulling to the back.

[idcrewdawg]

The front tire in a motorcycle wheel chock. One on each engine guard pulling slightly forward and one on each side on the rear pulling to the back.

Totally agree... If you have a wheel chock. He doesn't. Gotta keep the front wheel from turning, or it'll tip.

Honda crating it would also use a wheel chock, and would have the side loads accounted for in how they mount it in the box. That's not going to be done on a trailer.

[bscrive]

Kidd,

If you don't have a wheel chock then go to Harbor Freight and get one.  Cheap insurance to keep your bike safe.  They are only $40.  If you only use it the once, it is still worth it.  I, personally, would not trailer the valk without one.  Not worth the risk.

[_Sheffjs_]

Kidd,

If you don't have a wheel chock then go to Harbor Freight and get one.  Cheap insurance to keep your bike safe.  They are only $40.  If you only use it the once, it is still worth it.  I, personally, would not trailer the valk without one.  Not worth the risk.

Totally agreed.      Or screw down some 2x4s. I want something holding that front wheel.   

[Kidd]

[/quote]


Totally agreed.      Or screw down some 2x4s. I want something holding that front wheel.   
[/quote]

That's wnat I am gonna do  , cheaper than  wheel chock , works the same

[Bill Havins]

If you don't have a wheel chock then go to Harbor Freight and get one....

But don't buy their stinkin' drill bits!

Bill

[Rocketeer]

I currently have a 2015 Valkyrie secured for transport in my trailer along side my 2000 Interstate.  I have modified my trailer for safe transport based on worst case conditions.  The key is to make the load, regardless of what your hauling one with the trailer, without damage to either during the transport process.

My phone number is: 805-551-7792.  My E-mail address is: krc646@gmail.com

Contact me if your interested and I can send you pictures of my trailer and the components involved to make the process simple and safe.

Best Regards, Ken Caldwell (VRCC member Rocketeer)
Retired aerospace engineer, 43 years of service with high value hardware.

[Kidd]

Made it to Ventura Ca and back with no problems , 3 straps on each side  and 2 on front tire  to keep it from turning .
Got my seat  tailored  to my butt   by Rocky Mayer who's father started Russell day long seats .
The seat now fits   great  , as in an all day seat , very comfortable .

Still , I want a Russell day long as I have always wanted a RDL  seat and that just might be my next adventure , to drive to Shasta Ca for one ,,,,,,, like I need 2 seats

[idcrewdawg]

Awesome. What tie down points did you end up using?

[Kidd]

Sure ,  took seat and side covers off , used engine guards , frame  under seat and grab bars , that was 6 ties and then 2 on front wheel  , next time I will have a  wheel chock 

That was a 11  hour drive  to Ventura  , damn

[idcrewdawg]

Fantastic! Glad it worked out for you.