Foot-pegs for Tourer

[Steve-L]

So back when I was getting my first Valk set up, the Kury 4050s were pretty much the hot set-up for Valk highway pegs. They are still available new, for about $180 at various shops.

But before I pull the trigger for a set, I thought I'd ask if there are any other alternatives that are working well for riders.

Thanks for any suggestions and ride safe,

Steve L

[Jess from VA]

I have the 4050s on one bike.  They are nice, and adjustable, and folded up will not hit or break off in a tip over or git off.  The problem/limitation with adjustment is most guys rotate them up right behind the engine guards, and that's as far as they go.  The really nice part of the 4050s is the mount clamps; they are the best in the business.  Kury makes a cheaper setup similar to 4050s that will work, but the ordinary clamps will move.

On my other bike, I put clamps on the outer sweep (3 and 9 o'clock) of the engine guards; clamps to clevis to small ISO pegs (you don't want large) with stirrups.  I could have used the same dually pegs as come on the 4050s.  These let me spread out more on the pegs than the 4050s, but they may hit in a tip over, or going through a tight doorway if folded out.  (the stirrups provide a bit more support, but if you lean on them they will rotate, no matter how tight you get them) (I can just reach down while riding and move them back up into position)  It's been 10 years and I can't be sure, but I think the outer sweep of the engine guards is 1 inch, where the lower part of the guards where the 4050s mount is 1 1/8" inch, so Kuryakyn does not sell a pre-assembled kit for what I did, I had to buy the clamps, clevis and pegs and put them together myself (which always costs a bit more than any kit they sell).  When shopping Kuryakyn, remember they cater first to Harley, and most all of their kits and other assemblies are offered with 1 1/4" clamps which are useless to Valk riders (short of wrapping your mount point with an inner-tube, which is unsat all the way).  This is close to my setup, but all these are on 1 1/4" clamps.  http://www.kuryakyn.com/products/4024/engine-guard-or-frame-mount-footpegs


It would not be hard to get your bike centered up and mock something up just to see if you like pegs off the engine guards.  You do not really want any extensions or arms or offsets with this setup (unless your legs are so long you want your feet ahead of the engine guards), just clamp to clevis to peg.

Both sets, I can put feet on pegs, or slide my boots over the pegs and stretch all the way out.  

The real issue (like may things for bikes) is your size and leg length.  I only have 29.5 inseam, yet my knees are well bent with feet on my 4050s (rotated up just behind the engine guards).

The pegs out on the engine guards result in a wider position of your legs; not quite the OBGYN stirrup position, but closer to it than the 4050s.  This may be a better rig for a long legged rider.  

Lots of guys like the Mick-O-Pegs which are pretty expensive, and which are spring loaded and move around, but put your feet lower than I like (but they probably have longer legs than I do) (I never want my feet lower than my floor boards, which I drag nearly every time I ride.  I've had occasion to hit my foot on an object in the road at speed, and it hurt quite a bit.)

Price  $ 329.95
http://www.ridingiswonderful.com/page27.php

[bzane]

Same question! Not looking for all-day pegs, just something to unkink the knees for 5-10 minutes per hour.

Mustn't affect cornering or cosmetics.

Thanks!

[MarkT]

These are Kuryakyn 4029 Offset Highway Pegs.  http://www.kuryakyn.com/products/4029/offset-highway-pegs

Works great with fwd controls.  Very adjustable, doesn't move when set. Recall the rt crashbar is fwd of the left, and position of pegs matters a lot with fwd cntrls.  Easy to get there with these.

[Jess from VA]

Notice that with the offsets turned in on themselves as they are, all they are providing in movement is a wider foot position, about a 2.5" addition straight to the mount point on the engine guard (not counting the clevis).  None of the circular mounting possibilities are being used (because it's not needed), but for longer legs it could be needed.  

Mine just have the clevis bolted straight to the clamp (lips aimed to the rear like Mark's).  His pegs are centered on the guards, mine are a bit shorter mounted straight to the clamp lips.  I could add a little reach length just by turning the clamp lips around forward with the clevis ahead of the guards.  It's just a question of leg length.  My reach is far enough just to my pegs straight on the engine guards (and this is farther than the reach to my 4050s adjusted right up to the guards on my other bike).

Couple things come to mind on this hwy peg mount:  

Depending on leg length, where you put your feet and how you are sitting, I have on occasion burned one of my calves on the rear corner of the valve cover (short legs again).  With heavy pants, I can feel it getting warm before burning, but it will tell you to get your leg outboard a little. This is never an issue with the 4050s.

Like Mark has in the picture, guard mounted hwy pegs need to be angled back toward the rider, more or less, depending on leg length.  Bolting them on for the first time, it might be intuitive to mount them straight and level for best appearance.  But human legs form a Y not an H, so they need to go on crooked to put your feet on comfortably.  And getting both sides equally crooked is harder than you'd think.

Everyone who rides hwy pegs has had occasion to get off them in a hurry and back to the controls when something suddenly happens right in front of him.  Getting back to the controls from the 4050s is a bit shorter and quicker than from pegs on the guards.

Finally, a bit of body english is used when most ride.  With my hwy pegs mounted straight to my guards, a little pushing serves a healthy amount of body english to my ride.  The 4050s on long arms don't give me the same feeling/assist.      

[MarkT]

The advantage to me for these offset pegs is they are versatile - the 360° rotation allows for different leg lengths as well as height w/o changing the angle of the footpeg (can mount in center of crashbar, or up/down if you want cant).  Not to mention reach length - fwd or back of the bar as Jess mentioned.  Mine happened to work out well for me straight w/o much adjustment, though left is turned down some and rt is nearly level. But I did fiddle with that for awhile, getting them to position well with the controls as well as comfy on my leg length.  BTW I have 31" inseam, Russell Daylong seat.

I have Deerslayer set up the same, with fwd cntrls. I used the offsets rotation adjustments much more because the Ultimate Big Boy seat sits differently.

I occasionally bump the hot valve cover - not often and not an issue.  Just pretty warm, doesn't burn skin (with jeans).

I never have to get off the pegs for traffic reasons - obviously.  I prefer controls high like this - I can do tight parking lot turns and hear the lower pegs drag - somehow I just feel better balanced "centered" with feet high - feel better dragging pegs in twisties with feet up - no chance of catching my foot on a grade edge.  Misfit says just the opposite - feels unbalanced on hwy pegs.  Maybe hasn't ridden a while with fwd controls.  Different strokes...

[hubcapsc]

somehow I just feel better balanced "centered" with feet high - feel better dragging pegs in twisties with feet up

That's probably why we disagreed about the usefulness of the forward
controls out-of-the-box... I'm satisfied with them just being there, while
I casually shift gears with my feet up while calmly cruising... my feet
stay on the "real" pegs with the "real" controls when I'm trying to
keep The Wild Bunch in sight...

-Mike

[Jess from VA]

I'm the same as you Mike.  In any hairy riding, stop and go with folks with hitting brakes in front of me, fast cranking and banking twisties, crowded freeway full of no-signal lane changers, or slow but constant hairpin turns (Skyline Drive), my feet are down on the controls. 

Now I may have 85% braking power with the fronts alone, and I can pull the clutch and stop the motor from pushing the bike, all from the handlebars with my feet up on the hwy pegs, but my gut feeling is always that I am handicapped and not at full capacity for all variables up on the hwy pegs, and if something happens out front of me, my feet are back on the controls in an instant.  Like a knee jerk reflex test with the little rubber hammer in the Dr's office. 

I've ridden with guys who stay on the hwy pegs through the fastest twisty mountain riding possible and I am always amazed (T-Bird comes to mind); I can't (or won't) do it.  I never over-use or over-rely on my rear brake, but I use it in combination with the more powerful fronts all the time.  I also tend to use lower gears and higher revs to control speed in the twisties with the throttle alone, without touching the brakes, so I like to have my foot down ready to shift at all times too.

No forward controls for me. I would not want them at all.   

[MarkT]

Well my feet are UP ON THE CONTROLS.   Seems like you are ignoring that I have full controls while on the highway pegs.  Same as any bike with feet-forward peg & control placement. Actually better - I changed the ratios compared to the OEM controls - the brake has more leverage than the lower pedal - brakes better.  The shifter has less leverage - throws the shifter further than the OEM footpeg - shifts are faster.  Or I can choose to put my feet down, with full controls. I like the option.  And with my great seat, and pullback bars, I'm more comfortable than on the wing.  Doesn't work for you?  Then don't install fwd controls and ride like me.  Does for me and so I do. I don't claim to be a racer through the twisties but I will drag pegs with my feet up if I feel like it.  I can hear the pegs dragging so there's my signal, that's fast enough.

[Jess from VA]

I'm not ignoring your forward controls at all Mark.  You do have controls up there; I (and most of us) don't.

It's just what you (or anyone) are used to is all.

Both my bikes have heel-toe shifters, and if they were not available for Valks, I would not ride a Valk.

It's just what I am used to, and what I require on a motorcycle.

This individual fit of body to machine (bars, risers, controls, heel-toe, forwards, seats) is just part of why riding is so much more fun than driving.  (adjust seat and mirror, turn car on, use steering wheel, gas and brake with one foot.... and that's it in a cage; unless you have a standard shift)

Most of my comments in this thread are just to provide info to the OP on selection of hwy pegs, pluses and minuses.   

[Steve-L]

I have the 4050s on one bike.  They are nice, and adjustable, and folded up will not hit or break off in a tip over or git off.  The problem/limitation with adjustment is most guys rotate them up right behind the engine guards, and that's as far as they go.  The really nice part of the 4050s is the mount clamps; they are the best in the business.  Kury makes a cheaper setup similar to 4050s that will work, but the ordinary clamps will move.

On my other bike, I put clamps on the outer sweep (3 and 9 o'clock) of the engine guards; clamps to clevis to small ISO pegs (you don't want large) with stirrups.  I could have used the same dually pegs as come on the 4050s.  These let me spread out more on the pegs than the 4050s, but they may hit in a tip over, or going through a tight doorway if folded out.  (the stirrups provide a bit more support, but if you lean on them they will rotate, no matter how tight you get them) (I can just reach down while riding and move them back up into position)  It's been 10 years and I can't be sure, but I think the outer sweep of the engine guards is 1 inch, where the lower part of the guards where the 4050s mount is 1 1/8" inch, so Kuryakyn does not sell a pre-assembled kit for what I did, I had to buy the clamps, clevis and pegs and put them together myself (which always costs a bit more than any kit they sell).  When shopping Kuryakyn, remember they cater first to Harley, and most all of their kits and other assemblies are offered with 1 1/4" clamps which are useless to Valk riders (short of wrapping your mount point with an inner-tube, which is unsat all the way).  This is close to my setup, but all these are on 1 1/4" clamps.  http://www.kuryakyn.com/products/4024/engine-guard-or-frame-mount-footpegs


It would not be hard to get your bike centered up and mock something up just to see if you like pegs off the engine guards.  You do not really want any extensions or arms or offsets with this setup (unless your legs are so long you want your feet ahead of the engine guards), just clamp to clevis to peg.

Both sets, I can put feet on pegs, or slide my boots over the pegs and stretch all the way out.  

The real issue (like may things for bikes) is your size and leg length.  I only have 29.5 inseam, yet my knees are well bent with feet on my 4050s (rotated up just behind the engine guards).

The pegs out on the engine guards result in a wider position of your legs; not quite the OBGYN stirrup position, but closer to it than the 4050s.  This may be a better rig for a long legged rider.  

Lots of guys like the Mick-O-Pegs which are pretty expensive, and which are spring loaded and move around, but put your feet lower than I like (but they probably have longer legs than I do) (I never want my feet lower than my floor boards, which I drag nearly every time I ride.  I've had occasion to hit my foot on an object in the road at speed, and it hurt quite a bit.)

Price  $ 329.95
http://www.ridingiswonderful.com/page27.php

Thanks Jesse, a lot of good info there.