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Ken Tarver
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« on: April 19, 2017, 11:48:37 AM » |
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Working on another feller's '98 tourer with 60k miles.
His complaint was "no power between 3 - 4k rpm.
So by the time I get the bike, it wont even crank, carbs load up and puke gas everywhere and it hydrolocks.
Fortunately nothing broke.
California version Valkyrie by the way.
So I clean the jets, do a complete DE-SMOG, all new vac caps, new #6 intake vac hose to petcock (petcock tested and passed), new air filter, new plugs, valve adjust, carb sync with Digi Sync, throttle was tight so adjusted to have just a bit of slack.
Now it idles good, accelerates real strong and runs like a scalded dog.
I had it up to 105 and that is about my holy CRAP limit.
So the problem now...the rpm's stay high in between shifts.
Did some reading in manual and it states that pilot screws on CA version are preset at 2 turns out. So I adjusted the pilot screws out to 1 1/2.
A few more test runs and the rpm still remains high between shifts.
I am running carb cleaner, Yamalube Marine cleaner & conditioner.
Could it be that the high revs will correct over time as more crud gets cleaned out of the carbs.
A sure nuff fix answer would be great, or any suggestions to try is appreciated.
Ken
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Harryc
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« Reply #1 on: April 19, 2017, 02:01:13 PM » |
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Did you replace the idle screw o-rings? It still sounds like you have a vacuum leak to me. I had the same problem and replaced the low speed jets and the float needles, did a desmog and replaced the ECT. Puking gas and hydrolocking is usually float needles. A bad ECT will cause a hanging idle as well. Some here will tell you that cleaning the low speed jets rarely works, and you need to replace them. I took their advice. My Tourer runs like new now.
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« Last Edit: April 19, 2017, 02:09:43 PM by Harryc »
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sandy
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« Reply #2 on: April 19, 2017, 05:19:35 PM » |
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I have similar problems with the idle hanging up. Mine sounds like it's not as bad as yours. BTW: What is an ECT?
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Ken Tarver
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« Reply #3 on: April 19, 2017, 06:12:50 PM » |
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Sandy,
I think he meant ECM, electronic control module.
ECT was an electric mod to advance timing like a trigger wheel, I think, LOL, it's hell getting old.
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Harryc
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« Reply #4 on: April 19, 2017, 06:30:41 PM » |
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I have similar problems with the idle hanging up. Mine sounds like it's not as bad as yours. BTW: What is an ECT?
Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (ECT)....aka CTS. It's located on the thermostat housing. It advances the timing when the engine is cold. If it's fubared, it will raise the idle (and timing) when it isn't supposed to (warm engine)...thus the high idle hang and surging. http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/UGEAAOSwv9hW1xco/s-l1600.jpg |
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« Last Edit: April 19, 2017, 06:43:46 PM by Harryc »
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Hooter
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« Reply #5 on: April 19, 2017, 07:02:40 PM » |
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If you are in neutral and blip the throttle do the RPMS stay up?
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You are never lost if you don't care where you are!
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Ken Tarver
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« Reply #6 on: April 19, 2017, 08:58:12 PM » |
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Harry
thanks for the clarification on ect.
hummm, looking at manual, remove radiator, I'm going to need a few more days of work.
I'll have to get back with you guys, gonna be away from computer a few days.
Ken
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #7 on: April 20, 2017, 04:36:22 AM » |
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Harry
thanks for the clarification on ect.
hummm, looking at manual, remove radiator, I'm going to need a few more days of work.
I'll have to get back with you guys, gonna be away from computer a few days.
Ken
Removing the radiator is relatively easy, the hardest part is getting the hoses off. |
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Harryc
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« Reply #8 on: April 20, 2017, 05:05:35 AM » |
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Harry
thanks for the clarification on ect.
hummm, looking at manual, remove radiator, I'm going to need a few more days of work.
I'll have to get back with you guys, gonna be away from computer a few days.
Ken
Ken, if you are taking out the airbox and carb bank anyway there's no need to remove the radiator. Once those are out of the way the ECT is right behind the plastic heat shield on the thermostat housing. Also, as suggested to me here when I posted the problem you can disconnect it first to see if it makes any difference. The connector for it is behind the right side neck cover. Here's the thread with wire colors and whatever else I did to fix the problem. http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php?topic=90714.0 |
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« Last Edit: April 20, 2017, 05:13:09 AM by Harryc »
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Gabriel
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« Reply #9 on: April 20, 2017, 07:18:08 AM » |
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I had this exact same issue, after I went through the carbs, no more problems...
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Valkpilot
Member
Posts: 2151
What does the data say?
Corinth, Texas
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« Reply #10 on: April 20, 2017, 06:28:20 PM » |
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Did you check the throttle cables for correct placement and operation?
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VRCC #19757 IBA #44686 1998 Black Standard 2007 Goldwing   |
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Ken Tarver
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« Reply #11 on: April 24, 2017, 06:23:00 AM » |
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Hey guys,
OK, I'm back home and can give some replies to your suggestions, thanks for your input.
Valkpilot - Checked throttle cables, all seems good there, thanks.
Hooter - When idling and in neutral and blip the throttle the rpm's do not stay high, immediately drop down when roll back on throttle.
Harry - Last night testing ECT; shop manual value for cold is 2-3k ohm, my meter read was 2.5k ohm;
manual value for hot is 200-400 ohm, my reading was 192 ohm. I wonder if that is far enough out of range to be deemed defective. Think I will do same test on my bike for comparison.
Other suggestions I haven't got to yet. Thanks all, I will continue the pursuit.
Ken
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Buza
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« Reply #12 on: April 24, 2017, 06:42:41 AM » |
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Still too tight throttle cables I'd say
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Ken Tarver
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« Reply #13 on: April 24, 2017, 09:18:03 AM » |
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This morning did same ECT test on one of mine...exact same ohm results for cold and hot temps.
So at this time i'm gonna say the ect sensor is good.
On to other things now.
Buza - easy adjustment to make for sure, so will try just a bit more slack there, thanks.
Ken
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Ken Tarver
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« Reply #14 on: May 14, 2017, 10:35:38 AM » |
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Hey all,
thank you all for your suggestions. It's been awhile since I've been here to give an update on this project.
Well I went on a 800+ mile round trip ride with heavy doses of Chevron Techron in the tank.
Keeping an eye on the idle rpm at stops and making minor adjustments to maintain the idle at 900.
After returning home, just parked bike in shop overnight. Next day started up the bike, and once it reached temp and fan cycled on and off, the rpm was at 1500. So I adjusted the idle back down to 900 rpm and went for a ride. Well behold, the rpm's are dropping down now in between the shifts, and not just that ride. Have ridden the bike another half dozen times and the rpm continues to drop down between shifts. Runs very smooth at idle and powers down the highway like new.
OK, come get it Bob, I'm thru!
thanks again guys,
Ken
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BonS
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« Reply #15 on: May 15, 2017, 06:18:02 AM » |
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I just went through a set of carbs where the complaint was a lack of mid-range power. This wasn't a science experiment so we replaced the slo-jets, float needles and cleaned the main net needled. The float needles were obviously worn out and I'm sure that helped restore the fuel levels in the carbs. But the worst of things was gunk built up on the slide taper needles. I had a V-Max that was particularly sensitive to this build up. I would run awful in mid range because the gunk on the slide taper needle would starve the engine when it was in just the right position. With the V-Max I learned to simply remove the CV diaphragms and clean the needles with a bit of scotch bright and, vrooom, I was back in business. Anyway, the Valkyrie responded to treatment and is now running fine. I've also found that old fuel can be sticky and cling to the slide body, causing the slide to move slowly and this will cause leaning out and high rpms to hang and lag the throttle input as well.
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