Can you replace the float valves with the carbs on the bike?

[Dale_K]

Thread title says it all.  I don't want to pull my carbs since the bike is running perfectly but I'm getting paranoid about the hydrolock after seeing all the posts here. 

[Chrisj CMA]

Thread title says it all.  I don't want to pull my carbs since the bike is running perfectly but I'm getting paranoid about the hydrolock after seeing all the posts here. 

I would say its possible if all the screws were broke free.  However, I have worked on two carb banks lately and on both there were several screws that would have been impossible to break loose upsidedown and blind as they are on the bike........

[John Schmidt]

Agree with Chris, plus you need 10" fingers on baby size hands......and patience. My suggestion is make it easy on yourself, remove the carbs and do it right. Guaranteed you'll find something else to clean up once they're out. 

[The emperor has no clothes]

I agree with Jeff. You are likely to bugger up the Philips screws. If you have no issues with the bike, I wouldn't be overly worried about posts of hydrolock. Check your petcock is working properly. I believe in the DanMarc fuel shutoff. Many don't. If you are set on it, it's not that hard to remove the carbs. Take pics of the linkage beforehand. Getting the air box back on is probably the hardest part of the job.

[Ricky-D]

What you are suggesting, replacing the float assemblies in the carburetors is wrongheaded.  it is totally unnecessary.

You want to keep from having a hydrolock situation. Get a new gas tank petcock and get rid of that stock one.

Get the manual one and all you have to do is turn it off when you shut the engine down. Don't get a vacuum unit because they can fail.

Changing the carburetor float assemblies will not insure against hydrolock. Whomever would say it does is giving faulty advice.

***

[WintrSol]

I recently acquired a set of these, where were really helpful: http://www.vesseltools.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/screwdriver-sets/td-73mc/flypage.tpl.html
I also followed the instructions in the ShopTalk page for working on the carbs.

[Chrisj CMA]

If the lock was caused by a float bowl overflowing (the bike I fixed that WAS the cause) then two things are usually true. One, fuel is free to flow and the float/needle valve failed to shut off the flow of fuel. If it's a stock petcock it's malfunctioning. So that means in this situation there are absolutely two problems petcock and float/needle valve being the two problems. Fix just one and theoretically you won't have another lock. However, if the fix is a manual petcock, then all you have to do is forget to turn it off and you are open for another lock.

All that being said I agree ( in your situation ) with just replacing the petcock with quality equipment. If you knew a cylinder had filled with gas I would absolutely replace the float and needle valve in THAT cylinder.

Hope that helps

[Gavin_Sons]

Yes you can. I just did it on mine 3 weeks ago. Took about 2 hours working upside down but it is possible. Hardest part was getting the pin out of the float and then back in. A small pick and a strong magnet made it easier. Used the magnet to pull the pin out. 

[Gavin_Sons]

What you are suggesting, replacing the float assemblies in the carburetors is wrongheaded.  it is totally unnecessary.

You want to keep from having a hydrolock situation. Get a new gas tank petcock and get rid of that stock one.

Get the manual one and all you have to do is turn it off when you shut the engine down. Don't get a vacuum unit because they can fail.

Changing the carburetor float assemblies will not insure against hydrolock. Whomever would say it does is giving faulty advice.

***

I think this is wrong information also. I have a manual pingle that works properly and still got hydrolock in #2 cylinder. If your carbs are working properly you should never have a hydrolock.

[WintrSol]

If you have a stock petcock (vacuum operated), you can have a hydrolock without a float valve failure. If the diaphragm fails, you can fill #6 directly via the vacuum line. Another argument for a manual petcock.

[Valkpilot]

Working on the carbs with them on the bike is a lot harder than just pulling them.   Pulling them seems intimidating at first, but really not that bad.

I've done it both ways.  Your total time invested will be less if you pull them, at least in my experience.

[Hook#3287]

The only way to prevent a lock is to run your carbs dry every time you stop and pull the gas line or upgrade to fuel injection.

I had a lock while having lunch one day.  Rode to the restaurant, had some chow, came out and lock. 

It's been stated that hypothetically, there is enough gas in the lines after the petcock to cause a lock, so a manual petcock does not prevent it, if true.

Some are of the opinion the float valves condition has no bearing on hydro lock, so changing them is not necessary.  I prefer to change them.

After my lock, I found two carbs were letting gas by.   Could have been stuck floats, but I replaced the float valves and the flow stopped.  The floats were, and still are, in good condition.

[WintrSol]

Or, install a belly tank with a fuel pump and electric shutoff valve. Down side is, you have to run it until the main tank is empty so you can remove it for maintenance.

[Dale_K]

I'm hearing that part about stuck bowl screws and figure I'd have better than 50/50 chance of messing something up if I attempt to work on the carbs on the bike.

I put 57,000 miles on my first Valkyrie with no troubles and I never turned off the petcock in the entire time I owned it.  Of course the 98 I just bought has a bunch more years on it.  I don't want to switch to a manual petcock.  I'm afraid of forgetting to turn in on and winding up stalling the bike in an awkward situation.  All the modern bikes I've owned have been fuel injection so the muscle memory is gone for petcock operation.

I'm going to test the petcock and probably pull the hoses off the drain/vents on the bowls and leave them off.  Maybe I'll hook up my Mighty Vac to the nipple and see what happens in both the drain open and drain closed positions.  I'll put off the float valves until I have a need for carb work for other reasons. 

[John Schmidt]

......and probably pull the hoses off the drain/vents on the bowls and leave them off.  
===============================================================
Why? Just curious is all, they don't add or prevent anything, just facilitate draining the bowls when you want to. That's it....so why bother?  ???

[98valk]

I have large hands and have removed the bowls a few times using this rachet screwdriver
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc-reversible-offset-ratchet-screwdriver-set/p-00941469000P
remove the airbox to frame bolt and then ratchet strap the carbs u are working on up to give additional room. of course remove the intake manifolds. even easier if bike has been de-smogged.
I have since replaced the back screws with socket head screws. much easier using an allen wrench and no change of stripping the screw head.

[Gavin_Sons]

I have large hands and have removed the bowls a few times using this rachet screwdriver
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc-reversible-offset-ratchet-screwdriver-set/p-00941469000P
remove the airbox to frame bolt and then ratchet strap the carbs u are working on up to give additional room. of course remove the intake manifolds. even easier if bike has been de-smogged.
I have since replaced the back screws with socket head screws. much easier using an allen wrench and no change of stripping the screw head.

i used something similar but a kobalt set. worked great. and a mirror sitting on top of the motor and a couple flashlights. Had to learn to move in the opposite direction using the mirror 

[The emperor has no clothes]

......and probably pull the hoses off the drain/vents on the bowls and leave them off.  
===============================================================
Why? Just curious is all, they don't add or prevent anything, just facilitate draining the bowls when you want to. That's it....so why bother?  ???

When I desmogged my Standard I removed mine also. It cleans up the look a little. If I ever need to drain the bowls I will just put a hose on it as I do each one.

[Dale_K]

My thought about removing the carb drain lines is that maybe they could get stopped up or otherwise not be venting.  Plus afterwards I'd be able to see any overflow

[Gavin_Sons]

https://youtu.be/QwJdnA5l8cQ

[The emperor has no clothes]

My thought about removing the carb drain lines is that maybe they could get stopped up or otherwise not be venting.  Plus afterwards I'd be able to see any overflow

2 separate lines. The drain hoses are only for draining the bowls, no venting.