Clutch disengages at end of lever travel, master cylinder leaking

[RckyMtnRider]

I have a 99 IS, with 89K miles, that the clutch will not disengage until the lever is almost completely released. I have flushed the system with DOT4. However, I noticed tonight that the master cylinder is leaking. I'm planning on purchasing the piston kit to fix the leak. I'm concerned about the following:

Has anyone had this problem? Did the piston kit fix the issue?

I found the following kit on Amazon. Has anybody used it with good results? https://www.amazon.com/All-Balls-18-1012-Cylinder-Rebuild/dp/B01BV6PT9I/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494048735&vehicle=1999-59-17894-20-----14319------1-0&sr=1-2&ymm=1999%3Ahonda%3Agl1500cf+valkyrie+interstate

How would I know if it's time for a new clutch?

Thanks,

RckyMtnRider

[gordonv]

No one else posted, and not really something I've even looked at.

Does the clutch work? Then there is nothing wrong. Where it engages or disengages doesn't matter. As long as it is allowing the bike to be ridden, and the clutch isn't slipping.

Most 1st recommendations are to flush and replace the fluid.

[indybobm]

I do not think that it is working properly. The leaky master cylinder is probably admitting air into the line. It does need to be fixed.

[sandy]

I don't have experience with that rebuild kit but I use All Balls kits for fork rebuilds. They are superior to OEM fork parts. Much better seal quality.

[indybobm]

Another thing to check, does the clutch lever come all the way to the grip or is there a gap there?
Does it change with length of the ride?

[RckyMtnRider]

The kit has been purchased. However, after disassembly I found that the pushrods also needs replacement. I've ordered the pushrods plus the clutch switch, which should arrive late this week. Great weather here in CO this weekend and no riding for me.

To answer a few of the questions; yes the clutch does work, no slippage, and the clutch lever does come all the way back.

Thanks for the responses. I update afte I get the IS put back together.

[97BLKVALK]

As long as your completely rebuilding clutch lever be sure to replace bushing.

http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm

Michael

[gordonv]

In CO? You should add your location to your profile, there is a strong group of riders in CO, and most likely you would have had someone drop by by now.

[Leathel]

I have read posts about swapping the master for a VTX1800 master for a lighter clutch, it has a smaller piston, If you wanted a lighter master you replace it and put the money of the kit towards it, check the different years of VTX masters, there are price differences from year to year but all have the same piston as far as I have read, I used one on my last bike and it was new OEM @ $70

[RckyMtnRider]

Hello all,

Thanks for the responses. I got the rebuilt kit installed today. Still waiting on the piston. Hopefully it will be here before the weekend.

A couple of responses:

97BLKVALK, I ordered the bushing.

gordonv, I added my location.

Leathel, I'll look into the VTX1800 master if I have problems with the current rebuild.


Thanks again,

RckyMtnRider

[RckyMtnRider]

I got the bike put together today. The rebuild kit for the master cylinder did the trick. Clutch is working correctly now. However, bike died on way home from the Rockies game, lack of fuel. I put in another post for this.

Thanks for all the responses.

[Ricky-D]

The comments about switching master cylinders (VTX for Valkyrie) are not well thought out. Since the VTX piston is smaller, and the travel matches that of the Valkyrie, you can expect that the clutch when activated to release, will not do so completely, thus possibly causing shifting problems and creeping when stopped in gear, as just a couple of examples. The Valkyrie clutch is not a hard unit to activate and looking for "easier" is pretty "rookie". I recommend to not make this modification.

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