Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
July 01, 2025, 10:09:11 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
Inzane 17
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: Question re. Eastwood 2K Aerospray.  (Read 1150 times)
John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15215


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« on: May 12, 2017, 01:47:08 PM »

Can the base coat be sprayed over an existing coat of unknown type? It appears to be the old standby rattle can application on the fenders but the side covers look to be OEM black. I want to use the 2K high gloss black with a couple coats of 2K high gloss clear. The 2K is a two part formula and has to be applied over a similar base coat....such as the 2K black. My problem is I don't want to take the fenders down to bare metal if it isn't necessary. I have the time, just not the inclination(too much work Wink)

Does anyone have experience and/or advice re. the 2K? Would I be better off taking it all down to the base metal or plastic in case of the side covers, then use some 2K primer and build on that?
Logged

WintrSol
Member
*****
Posts: 1343


Florissant, MO


« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2017, 05:06:03 PM »

From the Q&A on the web site, I think they would recommend the primer first, after lightly sanding with 180 grit paper.
Logged

98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
Leathel
Member
*****
Posts: 877


New Zealand


« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2017, 05:12:30 PM »

You will have no issue over the OEM paint if you don't sand it to thin on prep..... But base coat can fry up rattle can type paint, even if its old. To be safe I would be removing that and priming it before base coating it.

 We pretty much primer everything in our paint shop but on blend panels if we are doing touch ups we get the fry ups when less than top quality paint is in the blend area but sometimes it doesn't react ..... its hard to pick what will at what wont fry Smiley
Logged
Harryc
Member
*****
Posts: 765


Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2017, 06:09:46 PM »

You will have no issue over the OEM paint if you don't sand it to thin on prep..... But base coat can fry up rattle can type paint, even if its old. To be safe I would be removing that and priming it before base coating it.

 We pretty much primer everything in our paint shop but on blend panels if we are doing touch ups we get the fry ups when less than top quality paint is in the blend area but sometimes it doesn't react ..... its hard to pick what will at what wont fry Smiley

That's it, I've decided. I am shipping my tins to New Zealand next winter for the 'Leathel treatment'. Wink 2014 Harley Big Blue Pearl please.  Lol
« Last Edit: May 12, 2017, 06:12:16 PM by Harryc » Logged

Leathel
Member
*****
Posts: 877


New Zealand


« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2017, 08:41:48 PM »

That's it, I've decided. I am shipping my tins to New Zealand next winter for the 'Leathel treatment'. Wink 2014 Harley Big Blue Pearl please.  Lol

 I am thinking of shipping some of my tins over to USA..... well one bit at least, Might make a backing plate for the longer sissy bar pad I am making and sending it over for my Cousin Kiwi Terry to do some airbrush work on it...... But I may make two and do one for me to try some airbrush work Tongue
Logged
WintrSol
Member
*****
Posts: 1343


Florissant, MO


« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2017, 08:29:09 AM »

You will have no issue over the OEM paint if you don't sand it to thin on prep..... But base coat can fry up rattle can type paint, even if its old. To be safe I would be removing that and priming it before base coating it.

 We pretty much primer everything in our paint shop but on blend panels if we are doing touch ups we get the fry ups when less than top quality paint is in the blend area but sometimes it doesn't react ..... its hard to pick what will at what wont fry Smiley
Voice of, apparently, lots of experience. cooldude
Even primers can react with the old OEM paint; you just don't know until you try. I tried a repaint of my CB450, and the primer looked great for about 1 hour. Took it down to bare, and started fresh. It IS a lot of work, and smoothing between layers takes time, but the results can be pretty impressive, even with the mix-in-can paints. The spray pattern is fixed, though, so you have to practice working with that.
Logged

98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15215


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #6 on: May 13, 2017, 11:21:24 AM »

Well, guess I'll order a couple cans of each.....2K primer, 2K high gloss black, & 2K high gloss clear. That is unless I can find a local painter to do it for me for a reasonable investment. At the moment I have the $$ so will pursue that first. Turns out a couple home repairs/improvements were less expensive than first thought. After the paint job, I'll mention what's left to my resident bed warmer. She just might be able to find something to spend it on. Hmm....ya think?! Wink  (new blinds/drapes for the new windows, replacing 37 yr. old kitchen counter tops, new flooring in the kitchen and entryway.......)   Undecided
Logged

Alberta Patriot
Member
*****
Posts: 1438


Say What You mean Mean What You Say

Rockyview County, Alberta 2001 Interstate


« Reply #7 on: May 14, 2017, 04:18:33 PM »

From the Q&A on the web site, I think they would recommend the primer first, after lightly sanding with 180 grit paper.

I think maybe wet sand the clear with 800 grit...180 may be too abrasive.
Logged

Say what you mean, Mean what you say.
Leathel
Member
*****
Posts: 877


New Zealand


« Reply #8 on: May 14, 2017, 09:16:52 PM »

From the Q&A on the web site, I think they would recommend the primer first, after lightly sanding with 180 grit paper.

I think maybe wet sand the clear with 800 grit...180 may be too abrasive.

The sanding they mention is pre primer I would have thought

If doing a 2k solid color as base I would sand the primer with 320, if using a non 2K base color final sand the primer with 500, if it needs sanding pre clear coat 800 (we dont normally sand pre clear but our off the gun should be pretty flat) if sanding the clear 2000 fished with 3000 before the polish.
Logged
verngroves
Member
*****
Posts: 29


Central New York


« Reply #9 on: May 16, 2017, 07:00:29 AM »

This is no response to John's problem. It's just a comment on his sense of humor regarding his "bed warmer". Love your humor. It really lightens things up. Thanks for that, John.
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: