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Author Topic: New member, picking up bike tomorrow, has a leak  (Read 3181 times)
Bowk
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Posts: 25

Green Bay, WI


« on: June 18, 2017, 10:21:21 PM »

So the subject line isn't very straight forward, but this is my first post! I'm going tomorrow to trade my current bike in on a 1997 valk!!

The only thing I seen wrong with it besides a few cosmetic problems was a small leak below the front left carb. Is this a huge issue or is it just a seal replacement? I test rode the bike and it runs beautifuly, I did stall it out once but it started back up, had to apply a little choke.

Thoughts from a more experienced crowd? Should I still go with it?
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Leathel
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Posts: 877


New Zealand


« Reply #1 on: June 19, 2017, 12:10:09 AM »

Fuel, Oil or water leak?
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Hook#3287
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Posts: 6442


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #2 on: June 19, 2017, 03:39:49 AM »

Congratulations  cooldude

Don't let a little leakage bother you.

Many times, when they sit for some time, these girls will spot or sweat Smiley

After you ride her some, the seal or hose or whatever will expand from being dried out and the leak will stop.

More info is needed, but I doubt it's a major issue.

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Bowk
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Posts: 25

Green Bay, WI


« Reply #3 on: June 19, 2017, 03:54:16 AM »

Looks like fuel, I should have smelled it but the engine was still hot.

Thanks for the reassurance, now the only thing I have to worry about is the weather!
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Bagger John - #3785
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Posts: 1952



« Reply #4 on: June 19, 2017, 06:36:04 AM »

By "below the carb", do you mean on the engine?

There are a few things which may cause a fuel leak in that area and they won't fix themselves. Given the bike's age I'd look at removing the carbs, disassembling them and replacing every O-ring and gasket in the rack...after a good cleaning. May want to replace the float needle valves while they're apart, along with all the vacuum lines, caps and intake runner O-rings as you put things back together.

On your way back out, replace the air filter element and if the bike has an OEM fuel valve, rebuild the petcock.

You should then be good to go for a while.  cooldude
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Bowk
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Posts: 25

Green Bay, WI


« Reply #5 on: June 19, 2017, 07:16:52 AM »

That sounds like a lot more work than I even know how to do. This bike is at a dealership and I was told that all of the seals were replaced and it is most likely just dry.

I'll talk to the dealership about it more before I pull the trigger, thanks for the information!
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Bowk
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Posts: 25

Green Bay, WI


« Reply #6 on: June 19, 2017, 07:17:45 AM »

And yes I mean on the engine
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Tfrank59
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'98 Tourer

Western Washington


WWW
« Reply #7 on: June 19, 2017, 07:30:45 AM »

I think depending on what you're trading for it you're making the right move. As far as knowing how to do the work yourself, with a bike that old all of us have to pretty much buck up and say well I'm going to be a DIY guy. As a valkyrie owner you'll have to come back to this forum again and again to get help and even to give advice at some point (and if you browse the shop talk pages you'll find them invaluable). I think that's the real question you have to answer for yourself not really so much about a little gas leak that's probably an easy fix but are you willing to do that kind of thing on a fairly regular basis?  Reason being there are not very many good Valkyrie mechanics around even at dealerships. At any rate welcome aboard assuming you do pull the trigger and do the trade in
« Last Edit: June 19, 2017, 07:34:09 AM by Tfrank59 » Logged

-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
Beardo
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Posts: 1247

Regina, Saskatchewan Canada


« Reply #8 on: June 19, 2017, 07:32:24 AM »

Sounds like the bike has carb issues possibly due to sitting a while. The leak and the fact you had to use the choke to restart it point to that. You shouldn't need the choke other than the first start. Unless you meant it stalled when you first started it and you needed to choke it then.

If you're comfortable rebuilding carbs (6 of them), it's not an expensive fix, just time consuming. If you don't do carbs, it'll be an expensive tab to get someone to do it right, if you can find someone willing to do it, and do it properly.

I'd do some reading on here about hydrolock to give you an idea about what can happen if carbs aren't working properly.
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Bagger John - #3785
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« Reply #9 on: June 19, 2017, 07:32:36 AM »

That sounds like a lot more work than I even know how to do. This bike is at a dealership and I was told that all of the seals were replaced and it is most likely just dry.

I'll talk to the dealership about it more before I pull the trigger, thanks for the information!
Dry and aged = cracked.

"Dry" and new plus leaking = something else amiss. That sounds like a snow job.

Fresh O-rings, tubing and other rubber parts shouldn't leak gas if properly assembled. Rebuilding the carbs isn't that big of a deal if you've done a lot of them but to the neophyte I can see where the job looks daunting.

If you were local I'd tell you to make them an offer they can't refuse then have you order the parts and we'd tackle all the potential trouble spots.
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Bowk
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Posts: 25

Green Bay, WI


« Reply #10 on: June 19, 2017, 07:37:35 AM »

I don't mind turning a wrench, but summer only lasts so long up here in Wisconsin! The dealer did tell me if I had any problems within a month or two they would take care of it, as it's "their reputation." Honestly part of the appeal to this type of bike is so I have some projects during winter I can tinker on, is that an option in his case?

Potentially a month or two covered, then I realistically only have a month or two after that if good riding weather.
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Bagger John - #3785
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« Reply #11 on: June 19, 2017, 07:40:53 AM »

I don't mind turning a wrench, but summer only lasts so long up here in Wisconsin! The dealer did tell me if I had any problems within a month or two they would take care of it, as it's "their reputation." Honestly part of the appeal to this type of bike is so I have some projects during winter I can tinker on, is that an option in his case?

Potentially a month or two covered, then I realistically only have a month or two after that if good riding weather.
Ummm...having worked that particular industry, unless I got a 100% coverage guarantee in writing from the shop owner, I'd run - not walk - away.

Them's weasel words.

ETA:

1) How do they know all of the seals have been replaced? Did the shop do it, or did the previous owner(s)?

2) If the shop did it, why does the carb still leak? And why don't they fix the problem while the bike is still in their inventory?

Something's screwy here. I wouldn't be afraid to take the bike on as a project, but they're trying to pull a fast one and are banking on your good graces to get away with it.
« Last Edit: June 19, 2017, 07:51:05 AM by Bagger John - #3785 » Logged
..
Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #12 on: June 19, 2017, 08:28:30 AM »

I don't mind turning a wrench, but summer only lasts so long up here in Wisconsin! The dealer did tell me if I had any problems within a month or two they would take care of it, as it's "their reputation." Honestly part of the appeal to this type of bike is so I have some projects during winter I can tinker on, is that an option in his case?

Potentially a month or two covered, then I realistically only have a month or two after that if good riding weather.
Ummm...having worked that particular industry, unless I got a 100% coverage guarantee in writing from the shop owner, I'd run - not walk - away.

Them's weasel words.

ETA:

1) How do they know all of the seals have been replaced? Did the shop do it, or did the previous owner(s)?

2) If the shop did it, why does the carb still leak? And why don't they fix the problem while the bike is still in their inventory?

Something's screwy here. I wouldn't be afraid to take the bike on as a project, but they're trying to pull a fast one and are banking on your good graces to get away with it.

Them's weasel words.

Something's screwy here.

Something smells a tad fishy.
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Bowk
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Posts: 25

Green Bay, WI


« Reply #13 on: June 19, 2017, 08:33:40 AM »

Well, damn. Had my heart set on the bike but now it sounds like I'm being taken for a ride. Thank you all for your responses, doesn't look like it's gunna happen if I can't trust the dealership, even if the bike was in perfect condition...

Thanks again folks, suppose I'll have to look elsewhere. ( Next closest one is a private seller at 60 miles, then 105 for a dealership)
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..
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #14 on: June 19, 2017, 08:38:16 AM »

Well, damn. Had my heart set on the bike but now it sounds like I'm being taken for a ride. Thank you all for your responses, doesn't look like it's gunna happen if I can't trust the dealership, even if the bike was in perfect condition...

Thanks again folks, suppose I'll have to look elsewhere. ( Next closest one is a private seller at 60 miles, then 105 for a dealership)


How many miles?
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Bowk
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Posts: 25

Green Bay, WI


« Reply #15 on: June 19, 2017, 08:45:03 AM »

The mileage on the bike? 80k. Has saddle bags, mustang seat with back rest for Rider and passenger, and windscreen with some speakers and lights. They are asking 4,480 for it.
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Bowk
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Green Bay, WI


« Reply #16 on: June 19, 2017, 08:46:52 AM »

Oh, and the Cobra 6 shooter exhaust
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Bagger John - #3785
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« Reply #17 on: June 19, 2017, 08:54:33 AM »

I'd go for something a little more stock in the exhaust department, with a little less mileage.

There are plenty of examples around. When Blondie and I were together we went to NJ to pick up a '99 Tourer for her. There were a few minor niggles which needed straightening out (worst was the right saddlebag which cracked along its assembly seam) but the bike had only 3,600mi on it at the time of purchase.

Of course, a month later she found an '03 Standard in Columbus which was positively beautiful and only ran me $500 more than the Tourer; this with ~10k on the odometer.

Patience is the key. Lots of "hide 'em; don't ride 'em" types still out there.
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Bowk
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Posts: 25

Green Bay, WI


« Reply #18 on: June 19, 2017, 09:02:54 AM »

There is a nice looking one 114 miles away for 5k at 10,000 miles. The 1999 with the red and cream color. No windshield or add one of any sort.
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Tfrank59
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Posts: 1364


'98 Tourer

Western Washington


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« Reply #19 on: June 19, 2017, 09:04:42 AM »

The mileage on the bike? 80k. Has saddle bags, mustang seat with back rest for Rider and passenger, and windscreen with some speakers and lights. They are asking 4,480 for it.

4480 is what I'd expect from a dealer in June. Where I live, on Craigslist there are about 10 Valkyrie 1500s for sale ranging from about 3500 to 8000 depending on mileage and model. Keep in mind it is the start of the riding season here in these Northern parts and everybody wants to get out there on a nice machine so if you really want a bargain you have to wait about three or four months.
« Last Edit: June 19, 2017, 09:36:11 AM by Tfrank59 » Logged

-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
..
Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #20 on: June 19, 2017, 09:22:16 AM »

Don't forget Honda recommends changing the timing belts at 100,000 miles.
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Bowk
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Posts: 25

Green Bay, WI


« Reply #21 on: June 19, 2017, 09:37:30 AM »

So final verdict.

I don't mind putting money into it over time, or working o it myself, especially over winter.

Checking prices elsewhere my gut tells me to grab it and run, and just take it somewhere else for anything I can't do.
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Firefighter
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Posts: 1165


Harlingen, Texas


« Reply #22 on: June 19, 2017, 09:38:04 AM »

The dealer replaced all the seals!!!!!! 2funny
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red
2006 Honda Sabre 1100
2013 Honda Spirit 750
2002 Honda Rebel 250
1978 Honda 750
Gavin_Sons
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Posts: 7109


VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #23 on: June 19, 2017, 10:22:26 AM »

i wouldn't hesitate buying it and running as fast as i could if it is a good deal. But i have experience with valk carbs and pretty much everything on these bikes. remember these are 14-20 year old bikes. Things are going to need replaced.
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Bagger John - #3785
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Posts: 1952



« Reply #24 on: June 19, 2017, 10:33:32 AM »

i wouldn't hesitate buying it and running as fast as i could if it is a good deal. But i have experience with valk carbs and pretty much everything on these bikes. remember these are 14-20 year old bikes. Things are going to need replaced.
Qualify "good deal".

For you and I, a project like this is doable.

For someone who's never turned wrenches on a Valkyrie, maybe. I suspect this one's going to need a bit more work than carb attention, and it isn't just 'time' which starts running up the bill.

I would approach this bike as a complete fluid and filters change, rear-end refresh (dampers, pinion shaft seal, moly paste and O-rings), radiator hoses (if worn or bulged), timing belts and carb refresh. This assumes the tires, wheel bearings and shocks/fork springs and seals are in good shape.

Start tallying all this up and you're not saving any money.

Get that bike for $3k and I'd do it.
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Bowk
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Posts: 25

Green Bay, WI


« Reply #25 on: June 19, 2017, 10:56:44 AM »

By "good deal" I mean one I can afford to have some leeway for maintenance. Guess I have some thinking and further consulting/research to do.

Thank you all for your responses and the time you took educating the noobie, ride safe people.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16780


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #26 on: June 19, 2017, 11:23:06 AM »

By "good deal" I mean one I can afford to have some leeway for maintenance. Guess I have some thinking and further consulting/research to do.

Thank you all for your responses and the time you took educating the noobie, ride safe people.

I got a tired Valkyrie that has since taken me many places, it took a fair amount
of work and spare change to freshen it up though... really good Tourers (I think
OEM bags and windshield are important) can be had with some looking around
for $5000 or so...

This one near me looks nice, just as an example...

https://greenville.craigslist.org/mcy/6182021757.html

-Mike "Valkyries are awesome motorcycles  cooldude "
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #27 on: June 19, 2017, 11:28:03 AM »

By "good deal" I mean one I can afford to have some leeway for maintenance. Guess I have some thinking and further consulting/research to do.

Thank you all for your responses and the time you took educating the noobie, ride safe people.
It sounds like leaking manifold o-rings. If so, they are an easy job. Is there a coffee colored stain on the head by the base of the intake ? If it's leaking fuel rails that will be a little harder, but not insurmountable .
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Bowk
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Posts: 25

Green Bay, WI


« Reply #28 on: June 19, 2017, 11:33:17 AM »

Yep, I wish I knew more technical lingo so I could tell you exactly where, but it is a coffee colored stain on the bottom of the small curved pipe connecting to the main engine. I probably butchered the description, I actually have pictures, if I knew how to post them in here.
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Beardo
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Posts: 1247

Regina, Saskatchewan Canada


« Reply #29 on: June 19, 2017, 11:35:18 AM »

Yep, I wish I knew more technical lingo so I could tell you exactly where, but it is a coffee colored stain on the bottom of the small curved pipe connecting to the main engine. I probably butchered the description, I actually have pictures, if I knew how to post them in here.

 cooldude you're good then. That a cheap 15 min fix to replace all the o-rings. Enjoy the new ride!
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #30 on: June 19, 2017, 12:02:18 PM »

Yep, I wish I knew more technical lingo so I could tell you exactly where, but it is a coffee colored stain on the bottom of the small curved pipe connecting to the main engine. I probably butchered the description, I actually have pictures, if I knew how to post them in here.

 cooldude you're good then. That a cheap 15 min fix to replace all the o-rings. Enjoy the new ride!
What Beardo said  cooldude With that though, I wouldn't believe a thing the dealership is telling you about them replacing seals and such or their saying they will make it right. If it were me I would have them pull the pumpkin and show me that the splines are lubricated and in good shape. If they are not willing to do that then I think I'd look around for another bike.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16780


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #31 on: June 19, 2017, 12:06:08 PM »

Yep, I wish I knew more technical lingo so I could tell you exactly where, but it is a coffee colored stain on the bottom of the small curved pipe connecting to the main engine. I probably butchered the description, I actually have pictures, if I knew how to post them in here.

 cooldude you're good then. That a cheap 15 min fix to replace all the o-rings. Enjoy the new ride!
What Beardo said  cooldude With that though, I wouldn't believe a thing the dealership is telling you about them replacing seals and such or their saying they will make it right. If it were me I would have them pull the pumpkin and show me that the splines are lubricated and in good shape. If they are not willing to do that then I think I'd look around for another bike.

I might not have read every post well enough, but... while the coffee colored stains
indicate a need for new o-rings on the manifolds, I never heard of them having
anything to do with visible drippy gas leaks...

-Mike
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #32 on: June 19, 2017, 12:07:12 PM »

As far as posting pics, it took me years to figure it out.  Embarrassed On the top of the General Board there is a post by Wiggydotcom about posting pics from photobucket. It was the only way I figured it out. (Well Russ did have to hit me upside the head with a 2x4 a couple times)  2funny
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #33 on: June 19, 2017, 12:08:58 PM »

Yep, I wish I knew more technical lingo so I could tell you exactly where, but it is a coffee colored stain on the bottom of the small curved pipe connecting to the main engine. I probably butchered the description, I actually have pictures, if I knew how to post them in here.


 cooldude you're good then. That a cheap 15 min fix to replace all the o-rings. Enjoy the new ride!

Yup, if that's all it is, extremely minor and very common.  Easy and inexpensive to fix.  Your stain is where the arrow (photo below) is, except a different cylinder, right?  That's where Beardo and I are talking about.
 


It's literally a matter of taking out the two screws that look like acorn nuts (#16, below), prying up the runners (#9), and replacing the O-rings (#4).


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Bowk
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Posts: 25

Green Bay, WI


« Reply #34 on: June 19, 2017, 12:21:48 PM »

Yep that's exactly where! Looking at it I thought it looked like an easy fix, so I wasn't worries. But wanted to make sure haha, the army teaches "hope for the best, but prepare for the worst!"
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Bagger John - #3785
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Posts: 1952



« Reply #35 on: June 19, 2017, 12:25:59 PM »

Yep that's exactly where! Looking at it I thought it looked like an easy fix, so I wasn't worries. But wanted to make sure haha, the army teaches "hope for the best, but prepare for the worst!"
If you need to pick up O-rings for those runners, have an Ace Hardware in the area and don't want to wait for the OEM parts to arrive, go to Ace's plumbing supplies department and pick up six #123 O-rings.

About $1.25 each, last time I bought them. Take along an old one for comparison purposes. As I recall, JeffK's "generic spares" page also lists these.
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Bowk
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Posts: 25

Green Bay, WI


« Reply #36 on: June 19, 2017, 12:28:26 PM »

Thank you very much John! And while I'm there I can pick up some tools I'll need for this lady, namely a torque wrench it appears!
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signart
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Posts: 2095


Crossville, Tennessee


« Reply #37 on: June 19, 2017, 01:08:30 PM »

Let the guy know how serious you are and voice all your concerns. Ask for an extended test ride, since it died on you before. This should be a rare to none occurrence on a properly maintained Valk. Ride it for at least half an hour or so. An honest dealer won't object to that, and if you don't have any concerns, close the deal.
You will still want to learn to do maintenance and this forum will guide you on every aspect to keep it running.
Good luck and welcome to the forum.
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Bagger John - #3785
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« Reply #38 on: June 19, 2017, 01:11:59 PM »

Ask for an extended test ride, since it died on you before. This should be a rare to none occurrence on a properly maintained Valk.
Absolutely agree here.
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Hook#3287
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Posts: 6442


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #39 on: June 19, 2017, 04:16:42 PM »

Intake o-rings?  Cool, easy fix.

Offer them 4k.
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