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Author Topic: Give your saddlebag seals a lift  (Read 1536 times)
Valkpilot
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Posts: 2151


What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« on: July 03, 2017, 03:10:51 PM »

One problem with our aging bikes is that the plastic and rubber parts get tired.  Repeated use or flexing, ozone, heat cycling, cleaning chemicals all conspire to make them less effective than they used to be.

This was certainly the case with my saddlebag seals.  They compressed too easily, allowing too much movement when the lid was latched to the bag itself.  On two occasions, this allowed one to come off while riding.

So, I borrowed an idea from the Goldwing forums that makes the trunk seal more rigid and reduces rattle.  In that case, you fish a piece of small-diameter hose through the hollow part of the seal, making it less compressible.

Here's what I did for my Valk saddlebags:

I removed the seal from the bag.  It's got some factory adhesive that holds it in place, which separates pretty easily.




I bought some 1/8 inch diameter window screen spline.  Twenty-five feet was less than $10.




Then, pushed the spline into the deepest channel of the seal.




Dabbed RTV silicone adhesive on the edge that the seal channel will mate with.  (When you do this, make sure you get some on the corners.  That is where the seal likes to lift.)




With the seal in place, I then put the lid on and locked in place until the adhesive cured.  

Now the lid sits a little higher prior to latching and there is now positive tension against the latch with the lid locked in place.  And no movement!

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VRCC #19757
IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
2007 Goldwing 
 
   
98valk
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Posts: 13470


South Jersey


« Reply #1 on: July 03, 2017, 03:36:31 PM »

bookmarked. Thanks.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15214


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #2 on: July 03, 2017, 06:56:08 PM »

Neat idea.  cooldude
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gordonv
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Posts: 5760


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #3 on: July 04, 2017, 08:42:23 PM »

Nice, making the old seal more ridged like that.

As for the lid, I highly recommend adding wire hangers to your lids. After loosing one on my old GL1100, bought a picture hanger kit, and used that.

Having an IS, it already has the wires.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

pancho
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Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #4 on: July 05, 2017, 11:32:57 AM »

Good idea,, I've never run across that one before. That may be handy in other applications.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
PhoenixRizing
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Posts: 211


Keep the shiny side up

Sioux Falls South Dakota


« Reply #5 on: July 06, 2017, 07:37:22 PM »

Gordon, please message me on the clothes hanger project I'd like to see how that works. Thanks
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Phoenixrizing
gordonv
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Posts: 5760


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #6 on: July 07, 2017, 06:01:38 PM »

Gordon, please message me on the clothes hanger project I'd like to see how that works. Thanks

There isn't really much. But it's a picture hanger.

It came as a length of wire, triangle/D with clip for mounting, a few compression crimps so the wire wont pull out. Get a small course screw and mount the clip onto the lid and bag, then pass the wire through one of them, and crimp it closed so you have a loop. Then pull it through the other one, adjust the length so the lid hangs where you want it. Apply the other crimp, and cut the extra wire.

I looked on homies web site, nothing close to what I had bought, but that was like 6 years ago, and the GL1100 is long gone. I looked, and didn't find any pictures of it.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

Jess from VA
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Posts: 30411


No VA


« Reply #7 on: July 07, 2017, 06:22:55 PM »

I lost an IS lid and had to get a new (used) one and most all the hardware (talk about a lot of bitty parts).

I ended up short a part or two and had to make one of my own cables too.  It's not rocket science but it is a bit of a PITA, because you are working inside the bag, and inside the lid, and for the cable length to be right (pretty short), you have to stick the lid inside the bag and work around the corners, while the lid is wobbling all over the place.

If you are lacking a cable clip, you can run a bit longer cable to one of the screws holding the latches on either front or rear.

I'm here to tell you that running with no cables is a mistake.  I did it for years, but eventually, one of your lids is going to fly away at speed.  After sprinting a couple hundred yards back down the freeway for mine, a nice lady ran over it in her minivan (after about 40 cars did a good job of avoiding it).  I still ran across the freeway (three lanes at 70mph) to see if I could find the discontinued Hondaline rack, but all I found was exploded pieces in three foot grass.

Used lid needed bodywork and paint, hondaline rack (one), hardware... all told ran over $650 for one lousy lid.  You are warned.  
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PhoenixRizing
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Posts: 211


Keep the shiny side up

Sioux Falls South Dakota


« Reply #8 on: July 07, 2017, 07:00:18 PM »

Thanks Gordon. Will look into it.
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Phoenixrizing
old2soon
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Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #9 on: July 08, 2017, 08:15:42 AM »

Taken off a time or two with the lid STILL hangin on the cables.  uglystupid2 But I duz like the seal freshening idea.  cooldude Need ta bookmark this one.  coolsmiley RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
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