Brake Bleeding trouble....

[cdorma]

 I bled the brakes a few months back, both front and rear.  The bleed valves seem to stay wet with a little fluid on them.  It doesn't appear that any fluid is dripping onto the ground (that I know of).  I have a service manual and followed the instructions with a brake bleeder and I also have a torque wrench and tightened everything per Honda's service manual. I did tighten them a little more and still wet.  It seems the rear is around the threads and the front on both sides has fluid in the actual drain holes, but still could be around threads, hard to tell. Anyone else have this problem?  Any ideas how to fix?  I am not sure if I should tighten them more, I don't want to damage anything.  The brakes work fine, no squish, no air in the system. Thanks in advance!

[hubcapsc]

When I changed out the front brake line on mine, it was crazy how tight I
had to make the little connectors at the bit of hard line at the triple tree
before I could get the weep to stop.

I heard about someone wringing off a speed-bleeder (fancy bleed valve
some of us use) so I'm real careful about tightening them, I always
double and triple check for no weep before I declare victory, I often have
to get them tighter.

Weep is bad, and wringing off the bleeder is bad...

If new bleeders have that factory thread locker on them, maybe new
bleeders would be a cheap solution? Yours probably just need to
be tightened until they don't weep anymore, but... wringing off the
bleeder is bad...



-Mike

[idcrewdawg]

I bled the brakes a few months back, both front and rear.  The bleed valves seem to stay wet with a little fluid on them.  It doesn't appear that any fluid is dripping onto the ground (that I know of).  I have a service manual and followed the instructions with a brake bleeder and I also have a torque wrench and tightened everything per Honda's service manual. I did tighten them a little more and still wet.  It seems the rear is around the threads and the front on both sides has fluid in the actual drain holes, but still could be around threads, hard to tell. Anyone else have this problem?  Any ideas how to fix?  I am not sure if I should tighten them more, I don't want to damage anything.  The brakes work fine, no squish, no air in the system. Thanks in advance!

Have you cleaned off any extra fluid with soap and water, thoroughly dry and then done a powder leak check? If not, do that. A powder leak check is simply applying a non staining powder that will wet, and change appearance with moisture. Using talc, or flower, would work well in this case.

[cdorma]

I thought about trying the speed bleeders.  Should solve the thread problem with the sealant and the check valve should stop from weeping there as well.  Has anyone out there used these?  I have cleaned off completely several times and they always end up a little wet.  Thanks for all your input!

[idcrewdawg]

If they continue to get wet, then you've got weep. You might need to change out the bleed ports. If you do, I recommend the speed bleeders. I've used them on cars, but not on a bike.

[Robert]

Have you cleaned off any extra fluid with soap and water, thoroughly dry and then done a powder leak check? If not, do that. A powder leak check is simply applying a non staining powder that will wet, and change appearance with moisture. Using talc, or flower, would work well in this case.

  Agree

I personally would not do thread locker, I have had to much trouble loosening them before and had them break off. The cone at the bottom is what seals the bleeder if the seat has dirt in it, it will not seal correctly. I would say that you have left over brake fluid since I dont hear you saying the brake fluid level is any lower.

I am going to say this if you dont know how to tighten things then you either should not be working on your bike or learn the proper torque you need to tighten things. I dont say this to belittle you or anyone but this is one of the most important things to learn and the most overlooked. It could be the difference to an accident or not. Improper tightening can lead to bolt failure at a time when its not good.

[cdorma]

By "thread locker" do you mean you would not use the Speed bleeders?  I do have a torque wrench and they are tightened appropriately.  How difficult is it to tighten a bolt!  especially with a service manual that gives the torque values and a torque wrench (two to be exact, so I know they are accurate.  Thanks for your input.

[hubcapsc]

By "thread locker" do you mean you would not use the Speed bleeders?  I do have a torque wrench and they are tightened appropriately.  How difficult is it to tighten a bolt!  especially with a service manual that gives the torque values and a torque wrench (two to be exact, so I know they are accurate.  Thanks for your input.

Unless they're dirty somehow, you probably just need to tighten them a little more.
Speed-bleeders as I remember, and new OEM bleeders too I think, have that stiff
thread locker pasted onto them, it might make it easier to stop the weep, Ida know.

I don't want to be flippant about "tighten it a little more", since it will be a drag
if you snap it off. I bet a speed bleeder will break off a lot easier than an OEM one,
that's why I'm so careful when I tighten mine.

-Mike

[Robert]

Speed bleeders are fine and many use them, that is not what I am referring to when I say dont use thread locker. It is a solution to make sure bolts dont come loose.

https://www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/threadlockers/permatex-medium-strength-threadlocker-blue-2/

Torque wrenches are never 100% accurate and can lead to stripped bolts even if you tighten correctly. I and many here would be hesitant to tell you to tighten things more when we cannot be sure you know the breaking point or stripping point of anything you tighten, especially bleeders. It could lead to a bad situation for you in many ways. So they may be loose or they may be tight but really you are the only one that can make that judgement call. I personally would get a friend to help in this situation. 

I have never seen a bleeder nipple leak unless it was deformed or dirty on the end.

[Bill Havins]

I don't think that Loctite or a similar product is ever used on a bleed nipple.  I wonder if what is in the above image is a thread "sealant," which is a very different thing.

Having dealt with Brembo bleed nipples for 40 years or so I can tell you I would never use a thread "locker" on an aluminum alloy brake caliper.  Not gonna' happen.

Bill

[hubcapsc]

I don't think that Loctite or a similar product is ever used on a bleed nipple.  I wonder if what is in the above image is a thread "sealant," which is a very different thing.

^^^ what he said ^^^

I looked around for the right thing to call that stuff, and just settled for the
picture. Sealing the bleeder is what we're looking for here, not welding it on
there forever  ... a tiny bit more tighter will probably do it unless there's
something wrong...

-Mike

[cdorma]

I had the Honda dealer check them and they are properly torqued.  I will keep an eye on them and see what happens.  If it keeps up I will install Speed Bleeders.  thanks for all the input!

[Robert]

Good for you that you did that now you can confirm the idea of proper tightening so these questions will not plague you again. Most of what is maintenance on these bikes is pretty easy but without knowing you are basing your life and the health of your bike on unknowns. We actually do want to see you around here actually