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Author Topic: No brake lights  (Read 1312 times)
the bull
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Posts: 147



« on: July 09, 2017, 01:44:12 PM »

I am on a road trip in Utah from New York. I lost my brake lights on the bike and trailer. Not the fuse because everything else is working. Think it is a relay. Where is the relay located and where can I get one. My next stop is in Bryce. Thanks in advance for all of the help I know I will get.
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sandy
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Posts: 5383


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #1 on: July 09, 2017, 02:01:22 PM »

Check the operation of the switches on the handlebar and the brake pedal. A friend lost his Br lights and both switches had problems. You don't say how your trailer is wired. Do you have a powered trailer converter? Are LED lights on your trailer? The Hoppes 46255 converter doesn't like all LEDs on the trailer. Call me;maybe I can work you through a search.

480-967-3147

Sandy
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gordonv
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Posts: 5760


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #2 on: July 09, 2017, 03:04:05 PM »

Which type of bike, std/T or IS?

Only the brakes? I would look along the wires for loose connections. I believe the right side cover has individual connectors for each of the wires, brake/turn/running lights, so your brake light could have come loose. But check where your trailer lights are connected onto this harness, it is most likely gone higher up.

Also check that your foot peddle switch is activating (mine wasn't, needed adjusting, easy job) and the front brake switch was shot. Needed a replacement (but I did take the old one apart and cleaned it and got it working, now is a carried spare).
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

Valkpilot
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Posts: 2151


What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #3 on: July 09, 2017, 03:09:15 PM »

Which type of bike, std/T or IS?

Only the brakes? I would look along the wires for loose connections. I believe the right side cover has individual connectors for each of the wires, brake/turn/running lights, so your brake light could have come loose. But check where your trailer lights are connected onto this harness, it is most likely gone higher up.

Also check that your foot peddle switch is activating (mine wasn't, needed adjusting, easy job) and the front brake switch was shot. Needed a replacement (but I did take the old one apart and cleaned it and got it working, now is a carried spare).

The connector under the rear fender where the two pieces meet should also be examined.
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VRCC #19757
IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
2007 Goldwing 
 
   
the bull
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Posts: 147



« Reply #4 on: July 09, 2017, 04:22:47 PM »

Thanks for the replies. I have an intestate no led lights and a trailer convertor for the trailer lights
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BobB
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Posts: 1568


One dragon on the tail of another.


« Reply #5 on: July 09, 2017, 05:06:37 PM »

I have a Tourer, but there is no relays involved even on an Interstate.  Check the operation of both brake limit switches, front under the front brake reservoir and rear located under that chrome cover.  I found my front switch to be toast on the way home from Inzane and ordered a new one...
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the bull
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« Reply #6 on: July 09, 2017, 05:52:08 PM »

Limit switches work. When I unplug the 3 wire connector that goes to the lights and check I have 12 volts to the brake wire but when I plug it back in I do not. I checked and have continuity in all of the wires I do not. Brake light wire gets 12 volts if I us the battery ground but the tail light work.
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #7 on: July 10, 2017, 06:26:48 AM »

If I understand correctly, you have a brake lights if you use the battery ground? Sounds like a ground problem. Try running a separate wire to the bike frame from the trailer plug, and also make sure you have a good ground on the trailer harness....maybe run a separate wire from the trailer side of the plug to the bike frame.
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Ramie
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2001 I/S St. Michael MN


« Reply #8 on: July 10, 2017, 07:04:19 AM »

I would also unplug the trailer lights from the equation.
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“I am not a courageous person by nature. I have simply discovered that, at certain key moments in this life, you must find courage in yourself, in order to move forward and live. It is like a muscle and it must be exercised, first a little, and then more and more.  A deep breath and a leap.”
Donald
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Posts: 27


Edmonton AB Canada


« Reply #9 on: July 17, 2017, 02:50:58 PM »


I just went through a similar problem with my Std.   Had a new rear tire, shop installed, two days later, NO brake lights.
Disassembled rear fender, connector had been rubbed by tire and partially disintegrated. The shop guy had not tucked it up into the holder properly.  To save time and hassle, I rewired it, couple of hours of my time and its done.  Ordered a new harness from Honda, back ordered for a month.

Am currently looking for a decent set of Tourer hard bags at a reasonable price,  am located in Alberta and not a great selection of Dragon parts to be had. Any help would be appreciated.
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If you can't have fun???Why be here???
the bull
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Posts: 147



« Reply #10 on: July 27, 2017, 09:34:55 AM »

I thank everyone for your thoughts.  However, I am home and still do not have any brake lights.  This is where I stand after more testing today.  I removed the lights from the trunk and unplugged both of them.  Tested the connection and have power to the tail light and the stop light.  Plugged them back in one at a time and re tested.  No power if the bulbs are in the socket, but I have power if I remove the bulbs.  Bought new bulbs and I have exactly the same results.  Power with no bulb, no power with the bulb in the socket.  I even tried to plug the light into the connector by the fuse panel and had the same results.  The trailer was not hooked up to the bike when I did this testing.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated because I am dumbfounded.  This makes absolutely zero sense to me or my son who is a motorcycle mechanic.
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #11 on: July 27, 2017, 10:43:37 AM »

If the way you test for power at the tail light is with a voltmeter, you could have a very poor connection somewhere that will still give you a normal voltage reading, but that provides too much resistance to allow sufficient power to light the bulb.  A better test for power is with an incandescent test light.
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the bull
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Posts: 147



« Reply #12 on: July 27, 2017, 12:34:21 PM »

I retested it at the connection by the battery with a light and it does not light.  Any idea what to check, or what I can do to get them to work.

I was told there are no relays that control the stop lights or tail lights.  But is there a module that controls the lights on the bike?
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spongebob
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Posts: 70

Alabama


« Reply #13 on: July 27, 2017, 07:48:15 PM »

you losing voltage with a load......Thus, you have a bad connection....
If only one strand of wire is making contact and you test with a meter you will have voltage..
But put that one strand on a load test.... voltage will dissapear
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the bull
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Posts: 147



« Reply #14 on: July 30, 2017, 02:13:03 PM »

Thanks again for all of you that replied.  I am back in business again and ready for another trip.  Will be leaving for Florida in 3 weeks and thinking of stopping in Texas for WingDing on the way home.

  I never did find out where the problem was, but I now have working lights again.  I ran a new wire from the front brake switch and another one from the rear brake switch to the connector that goes to the back lights.  I connected to the plugs that are at the end of each wire and did away with the wire that runs through the main harness.  New wires and it now works fine.  This was definitely easier than trying to find out where the wire was bad.  But it had to be in the harness somewhere.
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