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CajunRider
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« on: October 20, 2009, 07:51:18 AM » |
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So, I think my starter relay is bad...
I'm getting 12.5 volts through the relay with the starter disconnected, but the starter doesn't want to turn over the engine well. (It'll make one or two turns and then stop.)
Honda wants $95 for a new starter relay. I can get an industrial relay for that price!!!!!
I'm tempted to get a vehicle relay (some go for $20), but it won't have the disconnect for the headlight's 13 amp draw during cranking.
Does anyone know of a double pole starter relay that will work properly and cost less than $95?? Or, can someone tell me how much current the starter motor draws so I can just buy an industrial relay that would last longer for half the price??
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2009, 08:11:51 AM » |
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I thought #10 in this picture was the starter relay - HDL wants $68.57 for #10  I guess, though, that #14 in this picture is really the starter relay - HDL wants $28.99 for it...  Pinwall has piles of valkyrie relays for cheap... -Mike |
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CajunRider
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« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2009, 09:31:51 AM » |
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I was looking at #10 in the first photo... The connection between the battery and the starter. I didn't know about #14 in the second. I'll have to go chase that one down and see what it does.
I'll check HDL. I may order from there. I checked at a local dealer, which I knew would be over priced... but $95??? Holy $#*T!!!! It's just a relay!!! I was thinking $30-$40. That's the price I pay all the time for industrial relays that go into offshore equipment. Granted, it's a lower current, but... WOW... I can get a Toyota starter relay for $20 that will handle the draw for a 2.0 Litter engine!!
In any case, it's grossly over priced, so now I'm trying to decide whether to pay for the Honda relay or spend an hour re-wiring for a car relay. The down side of a car relay is that it won't kill the lights during the start process. I'm trying to find a way to fix that also.
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Craig N. AZ
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« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2009, 03:18:12 PM » |
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Before you start ordering stuff do a few checks. Try jump starting it off a non-running car. I can get 12 volts out of D-cells but it wouldn’t start the bike. If it starts, it’s probably the battery or the battery not getting charged. You can bypass the relay by shorting the two big wires. Make sure it’s out of gear and ready to start. I'd bet on a bad battery. Good luck.
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CajunRider
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« Reply #4 on: October 20, 2009, 03:46:49 PM » |
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Before you start ordering stuff do a few checks. Try jump starting it off a non-running car. I can get 12 volts out of D-cells but it wouldn’t start the bike. If it starts, it’s probably the battery or the battery not getting charged. You can bypass the relay by shorting the two big wires. Make sure it’s out of gear and ready to start. I'd bet on a bad battery. Good luck.
Yeah... good point. Even though I get 12 Volts, doesn't mean the battery can push the current needed. I should know this... I'm an electrician...  Another question... In the top picture shown above, part number 10... There's a red cap that plugs into the top of it. This cap has melted on mine (along with the red wire going into that cap), thus starting the problem I'm having now (one of many problems...). What is the part number for the red cap??? Or is this one of the pieces where you have to buy the entire wire loom?? |
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R J
Member
Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
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« Reply #5 on: October 20, 2009, 04:09:43 PM » |
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Here is what ya get and you have to change 2 wires in the holder. It is actually for an older Gold Wing. I had to put 1 in my bike due to a melted fuse. Bad Relay connector.  This is your part:  |
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44 Harley ServiCar   |
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Warlock
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« Reply #6 on: October 20, 2009, 08:07:48 PM » |
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I was looking at #10 in the first photo... The connection between the battery and the starter. I didn't know about #14 in the second. I'll have to go chase that one down and see what it does.
I'll check HDL. I may order from there. I checked at a local dealer, which I knew would be over priced... but $95??? Holy $#*T!!!! It's just a relay!!! I was thinking $30-$40. That's the price I pay all the time for industrial relays that go into offshore equipment. Granted, it's a lower current, but... WOW... I can get a Toyota starter relay for $20 that will handle the draw for a 2.0 Litter engine!!
In any case, it's grossly over priced, so now I'm trying to decide whether to pay for the Honda relay or spend an hour re-wiring for a car relay. The down side of a car relay is that it won't kill the lights during the start process. I'm trying to find a way to fix that also.
Everyone calls the starter switch a relay. If you order the starter relay you will get what is shown as item 14 and that isn't the right part. The starter switch is what you want. You can turn your key on and take a screw driver and jump the main wires together that are on the starter switch. This will by pass the switch and you will know then if the switch is bad or not. The 2 main wires is one straight from the battery and the other is straight to the starter. If the plug is bad you can also order what RJ showed and that will save you a bunch of money. David |
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 I don't want to hear the labor pains, I just want to see the baby |
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Sourdough
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« Reply #7 on: October 21, 2009, 05:52:17 AM » |
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Before you start ordering stuff do a few checks. Try jump starting it off a non-running car. I can get 12 volts out of D-cells but it wouldn’t start the bike. If it starts, it’s probably the battery or the battery not getting charged. You can bypass the relay by shorting the two big wires. Make sure it’s out of gear and ready to start. I'd bet on a bad battery. Good luck.
Yeah... good point. Even though I get 12 Volts, doesn't mean the battery can push the current needed. I should know this... I'm an electrician... Another question... In the top picture shown above, part number 10... There's a red cap that plugs into the top of it. This cap has melted on mine (along with the red wire going into that cap), thus starting the problem I'm having now (one of many problems...). What is the part number for the red cap??? Or is this one of the pieces where you have to buy the entire wire loom?? I had this exact thing happen to me a couple of weeks ago on a ride. We found the melted red plug you refer to and luckily we were at a gas station and I was able to get some wire and connectors. We bypassed the melted plug and wired right into the starter switch. Bike fired right up and we were able to drive it home. My plug looked just like the picture RJ posted. Also RJ, thanks for the tip on that replacemnt plug, just what I needed. |
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CajunRider
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« Reply #8 on: October 21, 2009, 06:38:52 AM » |
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Here is what ya get and you have to change 2 wires in the holder. It is actually for an older Gold Wing. I had to put 1 in my bike due to a melted fuse. Bad Relay connector. That is EXACTLY what I'm seeing. Going to go look up that replacement part you also showed. Thanks. |
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R J
Member
Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
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« Reply #9 on: October 21, 2009, 07:10:25 AM » |
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Hey guys, remember you have to move 2 wires in the new connector to match your Valk. It is real easy to do. Press a small screwdriver in the slot catching the locking link, gently pull the wire from the other side. To put it back in the new hole, just stick it in and press till you hear the spring snap. Good job fellers, I knew you could do it......... LOL    |
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44 Harley ServiCar |
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