Having a hard time finding 15w40 oil....

[Roidfingers]

Having a hard time finding a 15 or 20 w40 oil. Been to Wally's and advance. Would a 15w50 work? What exactly does the 50 represent?

[Valkorado]

If you'e referring to Mobil1, I use it regularly.  The 50 represents a higher operating temp range (as does the 15 as opposed to 10).

[Roidfingers]

yes I was referring to the mobil 1. So its all good?

[Valkorado]

yes I was referring to the mobil 1. So its all good?

Yep.  Probably even more good in Alabama than in Colorado.   

[Roidfingers]

yes I was referring to the mobil 1. So its all good?

Yep.  Probably even more good in Alabama than in Colorado.   

Yes been bout 93 here. Heat index at 109 at 6pm the other day.

[MarkT]

Been using M1 15-50 almost exclusively since 97.

[gordonv]

15W-40

W is the winter. The flow temperature range, how cold it can get and still behave like that weight oil (something like that).

40 is the "weight" viscosity of the oil. Lower the number, more like water. The higher, more like molasses.

I'm sure someone else can explain it better, but that is basically it. 50 is thicker oil than 40. The 5w can flow at a lower temp than the 15w. In a high heat environment (engine or outside), you want a higher w #.

[Gryphon Rider]

E.g. 15W-50 means that at low temperatures it has the same viscosity of 15 weight oil, and at higher temperatures it has the same viscosity as 50 weight oil. Anything _W-40 or _W-50 will be fine in hot summer temperatures. In fact, like MarkT, I use Mobil1 15W-50 exclusively, even in temperatures close to freezing.

[Dale_K]

You can order it online from Walmart and have it shipped to your local store for pickup.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-15W-50-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5-qt/20713647

[BradValk48237]

I've run 20w50 for years.   Valvoline.  In a Wing and now the Valk.  Always available

B

[gordonv]

No, the single number is the viscosity of the oil. 40 is thinner than 50, etc. The w # is how it performs when cold, and how cold is the # with it that it performs at.

Found here,
http://www.driverstechnology.co.uk/oils.htm

VISCOSITY

Most oils on the shelves today are "Multigrades", which simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc)

Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer.

In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the "W" number the better the oil's cold temperature/cold start performance.

The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100°C. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number, the thinner the oil: a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100°C etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required.



If your engine wants 40 weight oil, you shouldn't use 50 or 30 without other reasons. Will it harm the engine? Maybe. This is why putting the 50 in a motor will make it quieter, as the oil is thicker at operating temp, heavier, which would make it fill in gapes better and stay on parts longer, till it flows back to the bottom of the engine.

[Roidfingers]

Been using M1 15-50 almost exclusively since 97.

Going with it. Thanks.

[h13man]

What Honda recommends works for me. Our flat 6's are nothing more than car motors displaced in a bike frame. GM 2010 Sierra strongly tells you NO oil heavier than 5w30 or you void the warranty regardless the temp enviroment you live in. Now that said do what you like its your ride and I doubt than anything is going to scatter in the motor but MOM knows best and I been riding Hondas as old as a 68' CL350 and never had a motor/tranny quit do to abuse of any sort. T6 5w40 is what alot of folk run as it is inexpensive synthetic to use. The winter # is what I would be concerned about more than anything.

[Gryphon Rider]

What Honda recommends works for me. Our flat 6's are nothing more than car motors displaced in a bike frame. GM 2010 Sierra strongly tells you NO oil heavier than 5w30 or you void the warranty regardless the temp enviroment you live in. Now that said do what you like its your ride and I doubt than anything is going to scatter in the motor but MOM knows best and I been riding Hondas as old as a 68' CL350 and never had a motor/tranny quit do to abuse of any sort. T6 5w40 is what alot of folk run as it is inexpensive synthetic to use. The winter # is what I would be concerned about more than anything.

If the high number is good for the temps you're riding in, a low winter number is not a concern.  A low winter number simply gets to where it needs to be faster when cold than a higher number.  a 0W-40 (if it exists) and a 15W-40 should be equally viscous at higher temperatures.  From the owner's manual or service manual (I forget which):

[Hooter]

Rotella T...15-40.

[Roidfingers]

Yes that was what I was looking for. T6 15w-40. But I'll stick with what I have.

[h13man]

If the high number is good for the temps you're riding in, a low winter number is not a concern.  A low winter number simply gets to where it needs to be faster when cold than a higher number.  a 0W-40 (if it exists) and a 15W-40 should be equally viscous at higher temperatures.  From the owner's manual or service manual (I forget which):

A 0w40 does exist for TDI autos but as far as being compatible for wet clutch, don't know. For my riding climate a 15w40 or heavier would work but prefer I the T6 5w40 which has worked well in 3 bikes/70,000 mi. plus its a very affordable synthetic. I ride my own ride. 

[old2soon]

Couple years back I went to a Missouri Fall Colors ride EARLY on a Saturday morning-sun weren't up yet-and when I left it was 17 or 18 degrees and I run Mobil 1 15-50 full Synthetic. Full choke and she woke up and after pulling out of her cave I let her run at high idle for 2 or 3 minutes whilst I finished gearing up. Dropped her into first and went easy til I hit the main highway-approx 2 miles-and went right up to highway speed-70 MPH-and no problems. More than once since I've been using Mobil 1 the front end has left the ground-NO/NONE/ZERO-dumping the clutch JUST hard acceleration in first-soooooooooooooooooooooo I'm thinkin here no clutch slippage as I have heard claimed here before when using Mobil 1. As an aside when I went thru Camdenton Mo. the sun were up and it was a balmy 28 degrees.  Cold weather has NOT been a factor nor has HOT weather been a factor for Phatt Ghurl and Mobil 1 Synthetic. NO affiliation and no financial consideration yada yada yada. RIDE SAFE.

[scarylarry]

http://www.amsoil.com/shopres/products/270px/MCF.jpg

I think the manual says use 10w-40..this is probably the best oil on the market..$1 more a qt than M1..won't foam if riding hard..

[98valk]

15W-40

W is the winter. The flow temperature range, how cold it can get and still behave like that weight oil (something like that).

40 is the "weight" viscosity of the oil. Lower the number, more like water. The higher, more like molasses.

I'm sure someone else can explain it better, but that is basically it. 50 is thicker oil than 40. The 5w can flow at a lower temp than the 15w. In a high heat environment (engine or outside), you want a higher w #.

W is not for winter.
Dr Haas motor oil 101, well worth the read
http://www.supramania.com/aehaas/