I think my alternator is toast

[Alberta Patriot]

Headed out to Kelowna this afternoon and got about 25 miles from home and the gauges quit working. I went about another 5 miles to the safety of an exit off ramp. The bike stalled right about then. I got it bump started after removing the fuse for the headlight and got it to the East bound direction and it quit again. I now have it sitting in the garage on my trailer. I boosted the bike with my car and let it charge for a while. I then disconnected the negative battery post and it stalled...no alternator output I guess.
Damn...25 miles into a 2 week road trip...I guess that is better than 500 miles from home!!
Anyway, I am looking on Amazon and see a bunch of "Lactrical" alternators.
I don't want to do this again, SO...are they any good?
What is a recommended replacement if Lacrical is junk.

[gordonv]

First check that your dog bone fuse isn't burnt out. The fuse between the alt and the battery/bike could be toast. There is a spare fuse inside the housing.

My 88' GW with 60K mile had the brushes stuck. Opened, cleaned (flushed with WD40), and put back together into the bike. I figure they still have over 1/2 their life left.

Easier, cheaper and faster than buying another alt.

Could also take a volt meter to the alt, and see if there is output.

[Alberta Patriot]

First check that your dog bone fuse isn't burnt out. The fuse between the alt and the battery/bike could be toast. There is a spare fuse inside the housing.

My 88' GW with 60K mile had the brushes stuck. Opened, cleaned (flushed with WD40), and put back together into the bike. I figure they still have over 1/2 their life left.

Easier, cheaper and faster than buying another alt.

Could also take a volt meter to the alt, and see if there is output.

The dog bone is good. I had trouble with a kinked tank vent tube and was repositioning it yesterday to get the kink out, which is right next to some wires at the back of the alternator. Old brittle wire might have failed inside the casing but it is so crowded there it is hard to tell. I will have to deal with it when I get back...it really sucks that I am stuck in a cage for this road trip.

[Bagger John - #3785]

My 88' GW with 60K mile had the brushes stuck. Opened, cleaned (flushed with WD40), and put back together into the bike. I figure they still have over 1/2 their life left.

Don't use "regular" WD-40 for this.

They offer a special contact/commutator cleaner formula, as does CRC (QD Contact Cleaner).

Keep other types of solvents away from the alternator windings.

[gordonv]

I also should have been a little more clear. The brush where not moving inside their housing, therefor not making contact on the contacts. The WD40 was used to flush out the powder that was binding the brush in it's housing.

I am not aware that WD40 could not be used in this instance. First I'm not spraying it over the whole alt, just the top where the brushes are.

I didn't know that WD40 regular has solvent in it, or that solvent would be bad for the alt.

[Bighead]

Same happened to me two weeks ago. No question alt took a dump. Rebuild/replace and get back on the road.

[Bagger John - #3785]

I didn't know that WD40 regular has solvent in it, or that solvent would be bad for the alt.

Any oil (fish oil included, which is the lubricant in WD-40) possesses solvent properties - depending on the material to which it's being applied.

I try to keep non-evaporative, general purpose 'cleaners' or 'lubricants' away from certain electrical parts for a few reasons. Besides potential breakdown of the surfaces which they coat, let's take a look at what's now sitting in the brush holders of that alternator:

An oily film.

What does an oily film attract and retain?

Dust. Including graphite, from the worn brushes.

I have a feeling you'll be revisiting this job down the road.

Don't get me wrong - WD-40 and similar formulations definitely have their places and purposes. Inside a bearing, an alternator or other apparatus which must remain serviceable and free from contamination yet retain any OEM-supplied lubricating compounds isn't that place.

[gordonv]

If you just end up buying another alt, keep the old one, I could use one to rebuild and hang onto locally. I sent mine south along with the starter, with all my left over parts. It's there for a loaner, but a little far for you.

I have family in Calgary, Edmonton and Kelowna. Could arrange some kind of pick up/drop off. Or next years Valhalla will be soon enough.