What mod needed on Progressive 444 for Tourer

[photochaser]

I just got a set of Progressive 444's (heavy duty) for my '99 Tourer. It is my understanding there is a very minor modification needed, but I have not been able to find out exactly what it is. Anyone care to share?

Thanks!
Jeff

[Chrisj CMA]

If they fit Valkyries, they fit ALL Valkyries

[sandy]

The lower mount on the right side has a different diameter hole. You might have to swap the insert bushing from the old shock.

[photochaser]

The Valk's are supposed to take the 440, which Progressive stopped making. They'll tell any Valk owner that you can have the 416 or 412. But knowing Valk owners know that the 444 is a better shock (like the 440), but there is one small modification to make.

[Kunkies]

 

Sandy got it right.  I installed 444 HD's about a year ago and you'll need to shave/grind a little off the lower mount on the right side, and I mean VERY little.  That's it.

BTW, I love 'em

 

[RDKLL]

I put 11.5" 444 on my bobber with NO modification...

[Chrisj CMA]

I have a pair of 11.5" 412 HD that can be had much cheaper and they have been on a Valkyrie for a short period of time so it's a guaranteed fit.

[photochaser]

Unless I'm supposed to use the brass bushing in the bottom of the stock shocks for both left and right, I'm confused.

Working on the left side first:

Honda bolt thickness = 10 mm
Honda bushing ID = 9.5 mm. So nice, tight clearance.

Progressive rubber insert ID = 15.1 mm
Progressive Shouldered 1/2" sleeve ID = 12.6 mm, length = 25.7 mm
Progressive  inner sleeve 3/8" ID = 9.7 mm, length = 22.9 mm

Axial room for the sleeve in the lower left mount = 21 mm

So again, unless I'm supposed to use the brass bushing in the bottom of both stock shocks, how do I make the 10 mm OD bolt fit into the 9.7 mm inner sleeve?
And how do I make the shouldered sleeve and inner sleeve (25.7 and 22.9 mm respectively) fit inside the 21 mm lower mount?

I suppose I could swap the lower bushing on both the left and the right, but nobody said that, so I don't want to do it without some confirmation.

Thanks for your help and patience!

[MarkT]

Making it fit was SO trivial I didn't even note what I had to do. It's what they call a "no brainer".  So I don't get why you are even asking about it.  Just do it.

[photochaser]

Mark, you've been helpful, but condescending in much of our communication. Not everyone finds this stuff as obvious as you clearly do. And that's one of the purposes of a forum... to help those less knowledgeable and/or concerned about making a mistake.

[Blackduck]

As mentioned above, take the correct bore sleeve and shorten it to fit into the gap on the mounting point.
Cheers Steve

[photochaser]

As mentioned above, take the correct bore sleeve and shorten it to fit into the gap on the mounting point.
Cheers Steve

Maybe they changed what they send with these shocks, because none of the sleeves were either the right bore or length. I pulled the bronze bushing from the old shocks and inserted those. I had to grind down the sides of the lower rubber cushion on the right shock, as mentioned earlier.

I'm done! Thanks for the help.

[MarkT]

Told ya it's trivial.  That's not condescending.  It truly is a no-brainer.  Everybody on this board can handle basic tools and that is all that was needed.  Like I say to my grandson - just DO it.  I didn't bother to document it because to tell someone to do something so obvious is insulting to their intelligence.

[MarkT]

On the springs:  I have heavier-duty springs 140/200 on the 444s. Were perfect for awhile. Now they are supporting less weight before they bottom.  Per Jeff & Chad at Progressive they aren't made for trailering.  Used to be these springs didn't bottom with preload at 1/2 while pulling the heavy Timeout camper loaded to the max.  Or with my 230# bro on bitch. Now after another 15,000 miles they bottom at full preload with a 180# co-rider. So I upgraded the springs again now to 210/250.  Not here yet.  Never heard of suspension springs losing their tension. Seems like they are exceeding their tension range and bending when mounted on the 444's - but that's what they are for per their chart.  Seems like a defective design to me. Maybe the heavier ones won't deflect far enough to bend the coils. That means a stiffer ride.

I understand the tension designation means, lbs it takes to deflect them an inch, at both ends of their preload range. So my new 210/250 springs will support 210# ea at no preload, and 250ea at full preload. Anyone understand that differently? I could measure it with a jig & scale...

Oh yeah.  The cost of the springs went up A LOT.  The 140-200s were $20 for the pair less than 2 years ago.  Now the 210/250s are $37 EACH plus $20 P&S. Almost four times as much.  I thought they were too cheap back then - looks like they woke up and priced them more realistically.