left rear skinny failre

[DougC]

well it  finaly  went  the left   skinny     and holly  fkk   is the outer   race hard to get out must be the original have  113000 km  just  wondering any ideas been  grinding it out   that  crap is  hard as   all get out

[Chrisj CMA]

Might be more effective to use a small Dremel blade and cut the race parallel to the axle.  Careful as you get to the end of the cut so you don't cut the wheel. Then the race should be able to be pryed out of there

[Ricky-D]

You can pound it out from the other side as long as the inner race and ball bearings are still with the bearing and intact.

***

[mrtlc]

Weld a bead of weld on the center of the race and let it cool. It will come right out 

[JimC]

OR,
you can buy or borrow a blind bearing tool. It is made specifically for that type of bearing.
I bought one recently and it works great. It was not too terribly expensive, see link...

https://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-Motorcycle-Separator-Extractor/dp/B005SUVQUK

Jim

[hubcapsc]

OR,
you can buy or borrow a blind bearing tool. It is made specifically for that type of bearing.
I bought one recently and it works great. It was not too terribly expensive, see link...

https://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-Motorcycle-Separator-Extractor/dp/B005SUVQUK

Jim

 





-Mike

[Tfrank59]

Yeah I would not cut the race only as a last resort cuz you're probably going to cut into the Hub even if you're super talented. I would soak the thing with PB Blaster or some penetrant oil and then like the guys are saying get the right tool to pound the bearing out. Mine were stuck in there for 17 years when I did mine and yeah it took some pounding but it came out hey you're not trying to save the bearing anyway. I didn't actually have the blind bearing removal tool all I did is use a drift from the opposite side through the Hub and pounded on it crossing side to side back and forth to evenly remove it. It will come out it's only about a .002" press but I realize with years corrosion it'll be stubborn at first. However if in fact the inner race and the balls and everything are totally grenaded and just the outer race itself is stuck in the hub well then you'll have to go to plan B which may involve cutting the race with a grinding wheel good luck with it

Further note: proper installation is critical to bearing life so when you get to that point read some of the posts on this forum to make sure you get it right or your new bearings may die an early death. And I don't know if you're planning on doing the modification for a double row bearing on the left side there. I didn't do it for mine and I'm not convinced it's necessary but hey to each his own

[Tfrank59]

Weld a bead of weld on the center of the race and let it cool. It will come right out  

Yeah this is what we do when we have a steel or cast iron Hub that the bearings pressed into but wouldn't it possibly melt the aluminum hub that the race is pressed into in this case? Melting point of some aluminum Alloys can be as low as 900 degrees Fahrenheit

[The emperor has no clothes]

Yeah I would not cut the race only as a last resort cuz you're probably going to cut into the Hub even if you're super talented. I would soak the thing with PB Blaster or some penetrant oil and then like the guys are saying get the right tool to pound the bearing out. Mine were stuck in there for 17 years when I did mine and yeah it took some pounding but it came out hey you're not trying to save the bearing anyway. I didn't actually have the blind bearing removal tool all I did is use a drift from the opposite side through the Hub and pounded on it crossing side to side back and forth to evenly remove it. It will come out it's only about a .002" press but I realize with years corrosion it'll be stubborn at first. However if in fact the inner race and the balls and everything are totally grenaded and just the outer race itself is stuck in the hub well then you'll have to go to plan B which may involve cutting the race with a grinding wheel good luck with it

Further note: proper installation is critical to bearing life so when you get to that point read some of the posts on this forum to make sure you get it right or your new bearings may die an early death. And I don't know if you're planning on doing the modification for a double row bearing on the left side there. I didn't do it for mine and I'm not convinced it's necessary but hey to each his own

I'm not convinced either. 180k on single rows without a failure. ( hope I didn't jinx myself)

[Paladin528]

put the rim in the over on 350 for about a half hour or so.  Then find a way to cool the bearing only and pull it out.

[John Schmidt]

OR,
you can buy or borrow a blind bearing tool. It is made specifically for that type of bearing.
I bought one recently and it works great. It was not too terribly expensive, see link...

https://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-Motorcycle-Separator-Extractor/dp/B005SUVQUK

Jim

 





-Mike

I have one of those and have yet to get it to work on any wheel I've tried it on. All it does is eventually pound out the other side and the bearing hasn't moved. I've had a bearing R&R take half a day simply because it won't budge, even with that tool.

Meathead, as for 180k on single rows just one question; is that the original bearing? No? OK....then I rest my case on using doubles on the left side then. I've never had a double row go bad or even be questionable, singles....many times and in all types of bikes. I've seen double rows run well over 300k in early 1500 Wings, never a single row.

[Ken Tarver]

You can get "loaner" blind hole bearing puller from Auto Zone or O'Reilys. Pay a deposit, get money back when return. Can also get bearing & seal driver kit from them. The bearing puller is a different type than the one Mike showed. I don't know if better or not better, never used one like Mike's. The one from Auto Zone I used was a slide hammer type. But for the Amazon price I may buy one.

Mike, have you had good success with the bearing removal tool you have? John said he didn't.

Ken

[hubcapsc]

All it does is eventually pound out the other side and the bearing hasn't moved.

You can't be timid when you pound it in. It's not like you want to save the bearing you're
taking out. There is an amount you can pound it in where the wedge-plug is in
the inner race tighter than the outer race is in the wheel. I've used my tool on
three different bikes...

-Mike

[The emperor has no clothes]

OR,
you can buy or borrow a blind bearing tool. It is made specifically for that type of bearing.
I bought one recently and it works great. It was not too terribly expensive, see link...

https://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-Motorcycle-Separator-Extractor/dp/B005SUVQUK

Jim

 





-Mike

I have one of those and have yet to get it to work on any wheel I've tried it on. All it does is eventually pound out the other side and the bearing hasn't moved. I've had a bearing R&R take half a day simply because it won't budge, even with that tool.

Meathead, as for 180k on single rows just one question; is that the original bearing? No? OK....then I rest my case on using doubles on the left side then. I've never had a double row go bad or even be questionable, singles....many times and in all types of bikes. I've seen double rows run well over 300k in early 1500 Wings, never a single row.

I should have qualified that. I have 60k on my standard that I know is original. I have 50k on my Interstate that I know. It appears to be original, but it could have been replaced with OEM before I got it.

[Chrisj CMA]

put the rim in the over on 350 for about a half hour or so.  Then find a way to cool the bearing only and pull it out.

Lol...or use a heat gun to warm up the hub.  Your wife will like the heat gun idea a lot better

[Bigwolf]

Weld a bead of weld on the center of the race and let it cool. It will come right out 

That is what I would do. 

[John Schmidt]

All it does is eventually pound out the other side and the bearing hasn't moved.

You can't be timid when you pound it in. It's not like you want to save the bearing you're
taking out. There is an amount you can pound it in where the wedge-plug is in
the inner race tighter than the outer race is in the wheel. I've used my tool on
three different bikes...

-Mike

Mike, I'm not timid in most of what I do, removing bearings are no exception. I've just never had any real luck using that tool, why...I don't know.

[DougC]

Well thanks for all the  advice   I did anage to get ot  with the  grinding  method     thanks for all the advice

anybody   have a starter  switrch

[ridingron]

Have you put the new bearing in yet? If not, put the bearing in the freezer for a while. The longer (12 hours) the better. Mine just about fell into the wheel. An hour latter it was solid as a rock!