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markymark640
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« on: August 09, 2017, 06:00:22 PM » |
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The proud new owner of a pretty much untouched, beautiful Green/Silver 1999 IS I have been preparing to make a number of mods to make it my own.
So far, I have a little progress
1. Kuryakyn Chrome Accessory mount. Mounts to the right hand assembly with some spacers and new longer screws. Screws were actually the wrong thread pattern so I had to make a trip to FastenAll to get the right ones. Got it on just fine. Now I need to run a USB power line so I can use my IPOD Touch and plug into the Aux Input on the radio system. But first I need to get my new PC-8 Auxillary box in.
2. Kuryakyn 4025 Chrome ISO Brake Pedal Cover ($27 on eBay). Two piece construction, easy install, gives a little bigger and much better looking brake pedal. Locks in solid with two screws and two set screws. Going to buy a new OEM brake pedal in the near future and have it modified ata my favorite metal shop to use a Harley type/size pedal mount so I can get an even bigger brake pedal.
3. Kuryakyn ISO Long Shift Peg. Bought a new OEM Valkyrie Gear Shift peg (24701-MZ0-000 ) [$40] and a Kuryakyn ISO Long Shift Peg (8825) [ $18 on ebay]. Took it to my favorite metal shop and had the old peg removed. Drilled a hole and tapped it for the Kuryakyn ISO Shift Peg and now I have a good looking ISO Shift Peg that's a lot easier to find and work with.
I've got all the parts and pieces for a few more mods I'll be working on in the very near future :
* PC-8 Aux box
* New Set of four (4) Polk DB501 speakers
* Clarion 1410 Class D Amp
* Bad Boy Wolo Air Horn and relay
* Custom made chrome speaker grills to dress up the inner fairing
* Mount and power for my GPS
* GL1800 Spoiler for the top of the trunk
* Custom LED Red LightBar mounted below trunk along with a BackOff unit for added visibility
* Install the 3 piece Mustang Seat and Backrest I bought
* Replace handlebar clamp with two separate clamps for the Honda Sabre so I can mount a custom control panel in that spot for mounting a USB Power Plug and the mount for my GPS
I've searched this site on many evenings looking for ideas and comments from folks that have done these mods and I have to say "Thanks", there are so many helpful bits and bytes of information that after ALOT of reading, I feel pretty comfortable tackling these mods by myself.
This is a fantastic resource and I really appreciate the ability to get in here and try to absorb some of the knowledge and lessons learned by so many other Valk owners. Again, thanks from a new Valk owner.
I do have one question
Is it possible to runs the wires I need for the iPod, GPS etc under the tank without removing it. I am hoping I can loosen it at the mounting points and snake the wires thru/under the tank without removing it.
Any ideas on this ?
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Gavin_Sons
Member
Posts: 7109
VRCC# 32796
columbus indiana
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« Reply #1 on: August 09, 2017, 06:03:30 PM » |
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Would be easier to remove tank and zip tie your wires to the other wire harness as the frame is split on either side of the air box.
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Ken Tarver
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« Reply #2 on: August 09, 2017, 06:10:15 PM » |
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Markymark,
Yes you can "snake" the wiring under the outer sides of the tank. Then when you do need to remove tank you can dress it up all nice with some zip ties.
Ken
Ps: by the way, congrats on your "new" dream machine and welcome aboard.
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« Last Edit: August 09, 2017, 06:12:20 PM by Ken Tarver »
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #3 on: August 09, 2017, 06:15:06 PM » |
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You know about the ACC plugs, so your electronics will go on/off with the key?
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markymark640
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« Reply #4 on: August 09, 2017, 06:24:32 PM » |
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Yes, I know about the Aux plug in the right side cover. I was going to use that for the PC-8 switched circuits. Then I'll have 6 switched circuits available and two in-switched.
About taking off the tank. I know it would make things much neater, because everything could be zip tied down, neat and proper. But what I've read on this site is that putting the tank back on is a rear bear. Since I'm not sure about how hard putting the tank back on will be I was thinking perhaps I could just avoid it by snaking the wires through.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #5 on: August 09, 2017, 06:28:34 PM » |
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Yes, I know about the Aux plug in the right side cover. I was going to use that for the PC-8 switched circuits. Then I'll have 6 switched circuits available and two in-switched.
About taking off the tank. I know it would make things much neater, because everything could be zip tied down, neat and proper. But what I've read on this site is that putting the tank back on is a rear bear. Since I'm not sure about how hard putting the tank back on will be I was thinking perhaps I could just avoid it by snaking the wires through.
Its not hard at all. Just do it when your fuel level is down. |
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #6 on: August 09, 2017, 06:29:35 PM » |
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Yes, I know about the Aux plug in the right side cover. I was going to use that for the PC-8 switched circuits. Then I'll have 6 switched circuits available and two in-switched.
About taking off the tank. I know it would make things much neater, because everything could be zip tied down, neat and proper. But what I've read on this site is that putting the tank back on is a rear bear. Since I'm not sure about how hard putting the tank back on will be I was thinking perhaps I could just avoid it by snaking the wires through.
Like Ken said, you can snake the wires temp and do a better job next time you take the tank off. I did that last year w/o issue. Removing and installing the tank is a tedious job at times, but after you've done it a couple of times, it's not that hard. Get the fuel level as low as you can. Just take your time and make sure the hoses are reattached correctly. You got to remove to swap the air filter, so have one on hand. |
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pocket aces
Member
Posts: 622
2001 Standard / Well not so Standard anymore.
Tampa, Fl
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« Reply #7 on: August 10, 2017, 04:50:44 AM » |
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You mentioned "Custom made chrome speaker grills to dress up the inner fairing" Any pics? Have fun dressing her up! She is a beauty  |
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Steve-L
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« Reply #8 on: August 10, 2017, 05:01:59 AM » |
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Pics? or it never happened!  |
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Bagger John - #3785
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« Reply #9 on: August 10, 2017, 06:28:40 AM » |
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If you disconnect the petcock lever knob (small Phillips screw waaayy inside the knob shaft) and remove the two tank mount bolts, the tank can be tipped slightly towards the left side of the bike. This will give you ample access to the frame rail and existing wiring clamps, through which your new power leads may be run.
Been there; done that many times. Use a towel between tank and carb tops to avoid scratching things.
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MarkT
Member
Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #10 on: August 10, 2017, 07:34:40 AM » |
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When you do remove the tank, take that opportunity to add several more wires for future mods, in a couple gauges. Coil up at both ends, tuck behind the front plastic gussets, coil up under the seat and tag them. You'll be glad you did.
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Houdini
Member
Posts: 1975
VRCC #28458 - VRCCDS#144
Allen, TX
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« Reply #11 on: August 10, 2017, 12:17:29 PM » |
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When you do remove the tank, take that opportunity to add several more wires for future mods, in a couple gauges. Coil up at both ends, tuck behind the front plastic gussets, coil up under the seat and tag them. You'll be glad you did.
+1 I have two sets of spare wires on both Valks, front coiled up in the light bucket and rear under the seat or under the right side cover. Excellent advice if you are planning future mods. |
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"A Camera And A Bike....What More Do I Need?  |
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