Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
July 10, 2025, 06:21:48 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
Inzane 17
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: rear wheel bearing help  (Read 1921 times)
Ken Tarver
Member
*****
Posts: 944


North Mississippi


« on: October 22, 2009, 07:33:53 AM »

not a good start to the day.

replaced left rear wheel bearing; after reassembly, realized had left out the CENTERING TUBE in the wheel.
is it absolutely neccessary for it to be in there,; what does it do? seems to just "float" in the wheel / on the axle when installed.
do i realy NEED to take the bearing back out and put it in there.
sure hope i am not the only one to ever done this!
THANKS,
Ken
Logged
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14778


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #1 on: October 22, 2009, 07:38:37 AM »

Yes you really need to go buy another bearing and redo it.  the spacer is what maintains the pressure on the bearings and torque on the axle...I would not ride another mile until its in there....in fact I would "unload" that axle nut immediately

PS youre not the only one.....but I know of noone to leave the mistake uncorrected
Logged
Ken Tarver
Member
*****
Posts: 944


North Mississippi


« Reply #2 on: October 22, 2009, 07:52:11 AM »

thanks Chris......i haven't put the wheel back on the bike yet, i discovered the blunder BEFORE i got that far.

Ken
Logged
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14778


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #3 on: October 22, 2009, 07:57:23 AM »

well, thats the good news then......I feel damage to both bearings and possible spline damage would result from trying to use it without that spacer.  Live and learn.   

I just removed my rear wheel to grease the splines and after it was all said and done I couldnt remember if I actually torqued the axel.  I went as far as unbolting the exhausts again and slapping the torque wrench on there again and it was at the right torque so I know now I did do it, but that was the first time old fart timers got to me.  I think Im going to make a checklist for all my bike procedures and I can check them off as they are done........never thought Id need that but I guess we all have moments
Logged
X Ring
Member
*****
Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #4 on: October 22, 2009, 11:08:06 AM »

Ken,

Don't know if yu've heard about this but one of the latest mods is to put a right side bearing in the left side.  You have to shave the spacer down 1/4".  You can't put a dust seal in but it is a sealed bearing so you shouldn't have a problem.

Marty

I'm fixing to do this with my spare wheel when I ds.  I'll do a write up with pics.
Logged

People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.           
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #5 on: October 22, 2009, 11:22:32 AM »


sure hope i am not the only one to ever done this!


Nope. I did it too. I didn't reuse the "new" bearing, I drove back over the bearing house at Anderson and got another one...

-Mike
Logged

timmer
Member
*****
Posts: 8


« Reply #6 on: October 22, 2009, 01:26:22 PM »

Ken I replaced the left side single row bearing with the larger right side double row bearing as mentioned above by Marty. I measured the difference between the bearings (0.260) and had a local machine shop turn down the spacer for $7 - it looked better than OEM when the machinist handed it back to me. A little bit more of piece of mind now that I have both sides covered by the larger bearings. I run a Goodyear TT 205/60/16 on the rear, but I would have done the mod any way if I was still running a MC instead of the CT, its such a simple eazy mod to do.
« Last Edit: October 22, 2009, 01:33:40 PM by timmer » Logged
KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
Member
*****
Posts: 4146


Specimen #30838 DS #0233

Williamsburg, KY


« Reply #7 on: October 22, 2009, 01:45:57 PM »


sure hope i am not the only one to ever done this!


Nope. I did it too. I didn't reuse the "new" bearing, I drove back over the bearing house at Anderson and got another one...

-Mike

Glad you posted this Mike. I was going to say, I wouldn't reuse it again after pulling it out either.
Logged
Gore
Member
*****
Posts: 30


Denver CO


« Reply #8 on: October 22, 2009, 03:15:54 PM »

You'll see on Oct 7 I did the same thing.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,9212.0.html

I tightened the axle nut so tight, w/o tube, the wheel didn't spin.

Got lucky, nothing broke, bearings were fine etc.
I put the tube back in. I suggest you do same
then you won't wonder what might happen without it.

Honda didn't give us emergency flashers or fuel guage but they did give us that.

As the smart man said to me (paraphrase), "How were you able to torque the wheel to 81ft lbs without it?"
Logged

We gonna ride or we gonna dick around all day?    Okay good, let me just finish my coffee, find my key, grab gloves, call the woman, top-off, check my . . . . . . .
Ken Tarver
Member
*****
Posts: 944


North Mississippi


« Reply #9 on: October 22, 2009, 07:55:57 PM »

thanks everyone......i put that sucker back in and all seems well.

Timmer - I have the same rear tire as you, since you brought up CT in bearing thread, are you hinting that the car tire is the cause of bearing failure? anyone else?

Ken
Logged
¿spoom
Member
*****
Posts: 1447

WI


« Reply #10 on: October 22, 2009, 09:57:21 PM »

the major causes of rear bearing failure in our bikes are actually axial force from a few causes, one of which is forgetting the spacer tube. The main reason is over-torquing the axle. Another cause is not cleaning out the bearing pockets completely and then not seating the new bearing all the way into the back of the pocket. This makes the bearings farther apart so now the spacer tube is too short to brace against the inner races and they get pushed in towards the center on even a correctly torqued axle. On my bike, the spacer tube was actually .012" too short. I measured the wheel at 40K miles the first time I changed the bearings during a tire change. I just made a new spacer since I had a machine shop available at the time. I'm lucky I guess, the rear axle had never been overtightened over the 3 previous tire changes.
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: