Steve-L
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« on: August 18, 2017, 06:16:43 PM » |
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Just received my brand new Clearview shield for my Y2K Tourer. I bought the stock height but wider shield. Figured the inch per side would keep my fingers and body out of the wind a bit better in my early Spring, late Fall riding.
So I just opened the box and there is about 4 times more protective foam rubber in that box than I ever thought I'd see. But I felt around and didn't see or feel any directions for me to read tonight before I install it tomorrow. Looks like it's just the 4 chrome hex bolts 8mm, 2 bolts down and the rider side nuts 10mm acorn nuts.
Any hints or pointers on getting the new one on. Looks like it's pretty straight forward. I think there's a rubber(?) "gasket" between the shield and the frame? Anything about that?
I should prolly go look at the Clearview web site to see what they say too.
Thanks for any hints or pointers. I'm looking forward to this little upgrade, the previous owner cut the shield down and I liked my old stock one better on my previous Tourer.
Have a good week-end all!
Steve L Ashby Ma.
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« Last Edit: August 18, 2017, 07:08:24 PM by Steve-L »
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #1 on: August 18, 2017, 07:23:20 PM » |
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Your current shield should have the rubber gasket. Just make it clean. 
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Crackerborn
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« Reply #2 on: August 18, 2017, 08:13:01 PM » |
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Loosen and remove the bolts, remove old shield, replace with new, and tighen the bolts evenly. Remove old shield carefully so the rubber gaskit Mh refers to does not tear. A second set of hands is helpful but not necessary. Depending on the number of adult beverages consumed, the entire process should take 15 - 20 minutes. It takes longer to unpack the new Clearview.
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Life is about the ride, not the destination. 97 Valkyrie Tour 99 Valkyrie Interstate 
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desertrefugee
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« Reply #3 on: August 18, 2017, 10:12:05 PM » |
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I either encountered or created some stripped threads in the factory captive nuts. I replaced with chrome hardware from the hardware store.
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'97 Bumble Bee, '78 GL1000, '79 CBX, '78 CB750F, '74 CB750
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Hooter
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« Reply #4 on: August 19, 2017, 05:10:07 AM » |
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Snug the bolts but don't crank em. Too tight and eventually the shield will start to spider web around the bolts. Make sure when you clean it (however you do it) you use a very clean rag so you don't scratch it. Wash / clean it first before the bike.
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You are never lost if you don't care where you are!
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #5 on: August 19, 2017, 05:52:44 AM » |
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You can do it while the mounting hardware is still on the bike, but I found it was easier to remove the screen and swap it in my living room on the couch.
Cleaning all the parts was easy and less chance of scratching the new screen.
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Steve-L
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« Reply #6 on: August 19, 2017, 06:07:45 AM » |
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Thank you all. Your comments were exactly what I expected. Totally appreciate the "don't over tighten mention", and "snug evenly" as well as the take the frame off the bike and "do the job, on the couch".
No adult beverages and some smooth Modern Jazz Quartet, to provide background on this overcast Saturday morning.
I have a Clearview on my HD so the quality didn't surprise. I was surprised that the headlight cut-out is top and sides but doesn't enclose the headlight and is open at the bottom. I think I actually like that better than the stocker.
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Steve-L
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« Reply #7 on: August 19, 2017, 08:37:08 AM » |
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All on, looks great! what a nice product these people provide at a reasonable price.
I "think" I found that the 2 chrome hex head bolts that go into the top of the verticle frame brackets, are a millimeter longer than all the others. I tried to keep them straight when I took them all off, but I mixed one up and then wrestled and sweated to no success, until I realized I may have the wrong hex head. Used the other, and bingo, easily on.
Also need to use some firm pressure on the shield to get it to conform to the frame. Started with the center hex bolt, then found that working the bottom verticle frame bolts loosely, and then the top bolts next, were the right combination to have everything line up and get all the hex heads and acorns to go on initially. Then using gentle torque tighten them all dowen snugly. It's 6 cylinder Honda, smooth as a Buick, no need to over tighten the bolts. They're not going to shake off.
The extra 1/2 inch width isn't noticable, I'm not sure it will make much more wind protection. The quality of the product, it's thickness and clarity and finish couldn't be better. Going for a nice long ride tomorrow so we'll so how I like it.
Thanks again guys.
Steve
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MarkT
Member
    
Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #9 on: August 19, 2017, 08:49:15 AM » |
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To clean - get the yellow microfiber rags from Costco. Always start with a freshly laundered one. Get hydrogen peroxide from your grocery (very cheap), put it in a sprayer bottle, dampen the rag and squirt the bugs on the shield. Wait a few seconds (bugs will foam up). Even dried-on bugs will melt - but best not to wait for them to dry. Wipe them off vertically only. No sideways or circular motion, you'll put horizontal scratches on it that catch the setting sun.
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Steve-L
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« Reply #10 on: August 19, 2017, 05:38:44 PM » |
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To clean - get the yellow microfiber rags from Costco. Always start with a freshly laundered one. Get hydrogen peroxide from your grocery (very cheap), put it in a sprayer bottle, dampen the rag and squirt the bugs on the shield. Wait a few seconds (bugs will foam up). Even dried-on bugs will melt - but best not to wait for them to dry. Wipe them off vertically only. No sideways or circular motion, you'll put horizontal scratches on it that catch the setting sun.
Mark, are you saying this specifically to the Clearview or as a general technique? Straight HP, no mixer?
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15213
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #11 on: August 19, 2017, 06:19:31 PM » |
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One thing with the Clearview, you can buff out scratches. Can't do that with the OEM. And yes, straight HP, I keep a spray bottle in the shop just for that purpose....cleaning off bugs. To keep from scratching it, I always use some fresh water on a dirty w/s before actually cleaning off the grime.
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Steve-L
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« Reply #12 on: August 20, 2017, 03:55:00 AM » |
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One thing with the Clearview, you can buff out scratches. Can't do that with the OEM. And yes, straight HP, I keep a spray bottle in the shop just for that purpose....cleaning off bugs. To keep from scratching it, I always use some fresh water on a dirty w/s before actually cleaning off the grime.
I always use water and some some decent wash prior to cleaning too. I'll give the HP a try.
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DeathWishBikerDude
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« Reply #13 on: August 21, 2017, 04:53:18 PM » |
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I also use hydrogen peroxide to resolve the bugs..works great.The clear view takes more abuse than the OEM,but I avoid rubbing as much as possible and always use a new microfiber wash mitt. The clear view is an excellent upgrade.
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Fazer
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« Reply #14 on: August 23, 2017, 10:36:24 AM » |
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I was going to chime in about the bolts being different lengths, but you spotted it on your own. I had the same problem when I installed the first time.
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Nothing in moderation...
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Harryc
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« Reply #15 on: August 23, 2017, 01:22:31 PM » |
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Straight HP ... never heard that one. It's is certainly a cheap solution. I use Novus 1 plastic polish. I buy it by the half gallon, which will last me a year. Works great on windshields, and yes I had a Clearview on my Shadow ACE 1100. It worked good on that shield too.
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« Last Edit: August 23, 2017, 01:25:54 PM by Harryc »
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Steve-L
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« Reply #16 on: August 23, 2017, 01:26:31 PM » |
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I was going to chime in about the bolts being different lengths, but you spotted it on your own. I had the same problem when I installed the first time.
Yes, and it makes a difference even more so with the Clearview shield as it is thicker!  I tried keeping the bolts in a pattern on a towel, next to my work area, but needing to make adjustments as I went, I mixed a shorter and longer one up. Took me a while of grunting before I decided to use my brain to figure it out. 
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MarkT
Member
    
Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #17 on: August 24, 2017, 06:21:36 PM » |
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H2O2 bought at a grocery / Costco / drug store is already VERY dilute. Around 3% IIRC. Undiluted would in fact kill you if you didn't handle it with a hazmat suit or the like. It's used as rocket fuel by NASA among other things. In high concentrations it's a strong oxidizer, suitable for bomb-making, and torpedo propellant while the Nazis fueled some of their weapons and the Messerschmidt 163B with it. It's very cheap - as low as a dollar a quart. Store it out of the sunlight. It oxidizes organic stuff including bugs. Literally MELTS them.
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« Last Edit: August 24, 2017, 06:44:20 PM by MarkT »
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DeathWishBikerDude
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« Reply #18 on: August 25, 2017, 04:58:52 AM » |
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I always dilute the HP with water,never used it full strength.
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