WoodyFL
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« on: October 21, 2017, 03:15:11 PM » |
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The last couple of weekends (when we weren't out riding) I have been upgrading the I/S with LED lights and a fuse box. Also finally installed a Stebel Nautilaus air horn that I've had for 2 years. I have some fog lights installed that I changed out the H3 to LED. They were wired by the PO to be hot all the time. I've had issues with forgetting to turn the damn things off and have damn near run the battery down a few times. I have looked for the accessory terminals under the right cover but cannot find them to save my life. Is there another place I can connect the lights so that they won't come on unless the ignition switch is on? Perhaps in the fairing somewhere?
Would appreciate any feedback guys.
Thanks.
Bob
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2000 Blue/Silver I/S Ocoee, FL
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Pappy!
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« Reply #1 on: October 21, 2017, 04:57:45 PM » |
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Woody - I don't know if you are interested but when I did what you are in the middle of I used one of these. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.htmlThe relay in there can be triggered by several wires that come on when the ignition is turned to the on position (such as a tag light wire for example) The kit made life easy and the power center is easy to get to. Am about to do the same to Lesa's Valkyrie as well. We just got some killer LED lights for it and I will add in the horn and power to the handlebars, etc. all through the power center.
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15199
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #2 on: October 21, 2017, 05:05:17 PM » |
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That looks too neat, would be out of place in my rat's nest under the right side cover. Woody, I want to change my driving lights to LED from Halogen, what did you use?
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John Schmidt
Member
    
Posts: 15199
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #4 on: October 21, 2017, 07:35:30 PM » |
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Hmmm...says non-polarity, is that why the bulb only has one lead. Must be the casing is the built-in ground? By installing those my headlight and the indicators on the bucket would be the only non-LED pieces on the bike. That should make my alternator last as long as I own the bike. Don't think I have room for an LED headlight unless they come up with a lamp that's shorter front to back.
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WoodyFL
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« Reply #5 on: October 22, 2017, 05:04:05 AM » |
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Hmmm...says non-polarity, is that why the bulb only has one lead. Must be the casing is the built-in ground?
John, there is a notch in the light fixture for fitment. The other half round opening that you see in the fixture is where the negative wire is attached. Had no problems fitting in the light housing. Plug & Play! Pappy, I had considered the PC8 but wanted to see how this was going to go, so I went with cheap. Where were you going to run the 2 switched terminals from? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMULSUI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1Also got this grounding bus: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MBUBTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1Wish I had gotten a little bit bigger bus though for future adds, though they are fairly inexpensive. Still working on tidying everything up but coming together nicely. Just wish I knew where to tie in to a switched circuit. Bob
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2000 Blue/Silver I/S Ocoee, FL
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WoodyFL
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« Reply #6 on: October 22, 2017, 05:12:58 AM » |
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This is what I may be doing for the headlights. Really would like to see what a difference there is before I shell out the approx. $130.00 for the pair with the shims that are needed. http://electricalconnection.com/index.php/product/led-headlight-bulb-h4/Once I do that everything will be LED, with basically no mods necessary. Bob
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2000 Blue/Silver I/S Ocoee, FL
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Pappy!
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« Reply #7 on: October 22, 2017, 05:51:57 PM » |
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Woody...if you are going to go for switched power you have to go with a relay. What you purchased is a fuse panel and a ground bus. At this point you can add a relay between the battery and the fuse panel and find someplace to mount it. That is, if, you want everything on that fuse block to be switched power. At this point you will need to find mount points for the fuse block, the ground bus and the relay. Almost anything that comes on with the switch can be used. The "switched" power lead will carry almost no current or load. All it is doing is pulling in the contacts on the relay.
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WoodyFL
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« Reply #8 on: October 23, 2017, 06:40:32 AM » |
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Thanks Pappy. Looks like I have some exploring to do.
Bob
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2000 Blue/Silver I/S Ocoee, FL
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John Schmidt
Member
    
Posts: 15199
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #9 on: October 23, 2017, 07:13:40 AM » |
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Bob, I have a pretty good handle on wiring and all the connectors you'll ever need. You know where we live.  John
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WoodyFL
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« Reply #10 on: October 23, 2017, 09:26:12 AM » |
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I just may take you up on that John. I am definitely not an electrical guru. I have the relays, wire and connectors. Just need to see where I can hook them up to. Thanks for the offer.
Bob
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2000 Blue/Silver I/S Ocoee, FL
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WoodyFL
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« Reply #11 on: November 05, 2017, 12:25:08 PM » |
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Finally got her on the lift this weekend to take care of the power situation. Looked all over for those ACC terminals but finally gave up and just spliced the relay trigger wire into the ACC wire from the fuse box under the right cover. Have the fuse box with switched relay so everything worked out great.
Thanks for all the suggestions!
Working on installing the SigEnhancer that Jersey (Steve) came up with. He left the ground wire out of the kit so he's sending that tomorrow. Hoping to get my new Clearview shield by next weekend ;aldo so I'll be done messing with it and start riding!
Again, thanks for the responses, and for the offer to help, John!
Bob
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2000 Blue/Silver I/S Ocoee, FL
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