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BINOVC
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« on: November 15, 2017, 02:35:57 PM » |
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So if I experienced a hydrolock while petcock was turned off, does that mean a cover set will not fix it and instead I need a whole new one?
To clarify, petcock was off during the night while I was at work, but I turned it on moments prior to start attempt.
I hit the starter and it only did a short crank. I knew better than to do anything else except pull the plugs. Fuel (not a lot) spat out of left front cylinder. Buttoned it back up and it started fine. Rode home and now it sits.
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Houdini
Member
Posts: 1975
VRCC #28458 - VRCCDS#144
Allen, TX
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« Reply #1 on: November 15, 2017, 02:47:37 PM » |
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Sounds more like a needle valve needs to get fixed, then rebuild the petcock.
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"A Camera And A Bike....What More Do I Need?  |
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16779
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #2 on: November 15, 2017, 02:56:42 PM » |
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A petcock that doesn't flow when the bike is off will help you
greatly. I've fixed numerous ones with cover sets, there's stuff
that can go wrong that a cover set won't fix, though.
That gas flowed through both your petcock and at least one
of your carburetors shows that something about that
carburetor is preventing the floats from doing their job...
-Mike
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Blackduck
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« Reply #3 on: November 15, 2017, 03:31:31 PM » |
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Check that the fuel selector knob is not binding in the mounting cover. It can hold the valve off it's seat. Still needs a problem with the diaphragm and float needle to allow fuel to flow.
Like most problems there will be a couple of faults.
Another problem s a blocked bleed hole in the diaphragm cover, this holds vacuum on the diaphragm and prevents it from closing. That was my problem along with a stuck float.
Easy to check, take the fuel line off the petcock and add a piece of hose to direct fuel away from the bike. Turn the petcock on and there should be no flow, place some vacuum on the petcock and fuel will flow. Release the vacuum and it should stop flowing, if not there is a good chance the orifice/bleed hole is blocked.
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2001 Standard, 78 Goldwing, VRCC 21411
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Pete
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« Reply #4 on: November 15, 2017, 03:33:21 PM » |
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As you rebuild the petcock be sure and clean the ball valve and cavity real good so the ball seats easily.
I use carb cleaner and compressed air as I rotate the lever from off to reserve and on.
And be sure to clean the failing carb and check the float valve and float. Check the others to.
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BINOVC
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« Reply #5 on: November 15, 2017, 03:37:45 PM » |
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Oh, I understand about the float needles. Right now I'm only interested in the petcock.
I thought I read a post somewhere that if fuel leaks through the petcock when it is in the off position, that a cover set will not fix the problem. Just wanted to confirm this.
Of course I will run tests on the petcock just to be certain (did I REALLY have it shut off, or was this one of the few times I forgot?).
So during testing, if I find it does in fact leak while in the off position, is this repairable?
I was thinking a cover set would only fix a petcock that leaked due to not holding a vacuum.
(I wrote this before Blackduck and Pete replied, so will take their advice as well)
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #6 on: November 15, 2017, 03:49:01 PM » |
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As you rebuild the petcock be sure and clean the ball valve and cavity real good so the ball seats easily.
I use carb cleaner and compressed air as I rotate the lever from off to reserve and on.
And be sure to clean the failing carb and check the float valve and float. Check the others to.
I thought carb cleaner was damaging to o-rings and rubber parts ? |
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Willow
Administrator
Member
Posts: 16608
Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP
Olathe, KS
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« Reply #7 on: November 15, 2017, 06:41:42 PM » |
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... Fuel (not a lot) spat out of left front cylinder. ...
I have some doubt that you experienced a hydrolock. For a hydrolock to occur you need three concurrent failures. You need the petcock to allow flow without vacuum; you need a float or floats to fail allowing excess fuel in the carb(s); and you need a piston connected to the failing float to be in just the right position at rest. If you had enough fuel in a cylinder to hydrolock you would see a lot squirt out when you remove the plugs and crank it. Of course our concepts of what is a lot could be out of sync. |
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BINOVC
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« Reply #8 on: November 15, 2017, 09:19:21 PM » |
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... Fuel (not a lot) spat out of left front cylinder. ...
Of course our concepts of what is a lot could be out of sync. I'm sure that's it. My last hydrolock shot gas out of more cylinders for a farther distance, so I'm comparing to that. Must not take much liquid in one cylinder to stop the engine from cranking. But something stopped it, and gas did emerge from a cylinder. |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #9 on: November 16, 2017, 05:36:28 AM » |
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... Fuel (not a lot) spat out of left front cylinder. ...
Of course our concepts of what is a lot could be out of sync. I'm sure that's it. My last hydrolock shot gas out of more cylinders for a farther distance, so I'm comparing to that. Must not take much liquid in one cylinder to stop the engine from cranking. But something stopped it, and gas did emerge from a cylinder. Being that you've had at least two hydrolock events, I'd say a full carb rebuild would be a good place to start. With new float needles, jets, floats. |
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Pete
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« Reply #10 on: November 16, 2017, 05:53:06 AM » |
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As you rebuild the petcock be sure and clean the ball valve and cavity real good so the ball seats easily.
I use carb cleaner and compressed air as I rotate the lever from off to reserve and on.
And be sure to clean the failing carb and check the float valve and float. Check the others to.
I thought carb cleaner was damaging to o-rings and rubber parts ? Might be if you soak them, but a quick dip or spray followed by compressed air removes the cleaner by evaperation and displacement. If this still concerns you then expose the parts to silicone or gas immediately. Remember we are only cleaning the ball and cavity not the vacuum chamber and diaphrams with carb cleaner. If you feel it necessary you could drill out the rivets, replace them with screws so the ball, cavity, spring and seals could be serviced without exposing the seals to carb cleaner. So far I have not found it necessary to do that. |
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Pete
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« Reply #11 on: November 16, 2017, 06:05:05 AM » |
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Oh, I understand about the float needles. Right now I'm only interested in the petcock.
I thought I read a post somewhere that if fuel leaks through the petcock when it is in the off position, that a cover set will not fix the problem. Just wanted to confirm this.
Of course I will run tests on the petcock just to be certain (did I REALLY have it shut off, or was this one of the few times I forgot?).
So during testing, if I find it does in fact leak while in the off position, is this repairable?
I was thinking a cover set would only fix a petcock that leaked due to not holding a vacuum.
(I wrote this before Blackduck and Pete replied, so will take their advice as well)
The reason for cleaning the ball and cavity are 2 fold. Should a leak develop in 1 or more diaphrams the check ball is the only way to stop gas flow quickly. If the check ball is not seating correctly, but the gas diaphram is working correctly you may not know it until the gas diaphram fails or until you notice the reserve is not working as designed and you run out of gas. |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #12 on: November 16, 2017, 06:28:38 AM » |
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As you rebuild the petcock be sure and clean the ball valve and cavity real good so the ball seats easily.
I use carb cleaner and compressed air as I rotate the lever from off to reserve and on.
And be sure to clean the failing carb and check the float valve and float. Check the others to.
I thought carb cleaner was damaging to o-rings and rubber parts ? Might be if you soak them, but a quick dip or spray followed by compressed air removes the cleaner by evaperation and displacement. If this still concerns you then expose the parts to silicone or gas immediately. Remember we are only cleaning the ball and cavity not the vacuum chamber and diaphrams with carb cleaner. If you feel it necessary you could drill out the rivets, replace them with screws so the ball, cavity, spring and seals could be serviced without exposing the seals to carb cleaner. So far I have not found it necessary to do that.  |
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Jruby38
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« Reply #13 on: November 16, 2017, 01:10:43 PM » |
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Ditch the POS oem, and get a Pingle. 15 years and over 100k miles, no problems. The quality is much better over OEM. Chrome lined brass with positive shutoff.
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BINOVC
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« Reply #14 on: November 17, 2017, 06:37:03 AM » |
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I'm sure that's it. My last hydrolock shot gas out of more cylinders for a farther distance, so I'm comparing to that. Must not take much liquid in one cylinder to stop the engine from cranking. But something stopped it, and gas did emerge from a cylinder.
Being that you've had at least two hydrolock events, I'd say a full carb rebuild would be a good place to start. With new float needles, jets, floats. Should have mentioned it was 2 different Valks. I would love to get into the carbs, but - not high enough on the to-do list right now. |
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