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dcfan2
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« on: December 18, 2017, 01:50:50 PM » |
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Started with hydrolock.Luckily stopped before damage.Pulled carbs and found 2 needle valves stuck.Tore apart carbs and cleaned.Now bike is hard to start.Tries to start and dies.Once started tho it runs good.Just cant get it started most of the time.Any ideas.Pulled carbs again and setting on bench.Did find all but 2 slow jets clogged .Could this be a starting issue?
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Harryc
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« Reply #1 on: December 18, 2017, 03:39:14 PM » |
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When's the last time this bike ran well, and how long did it sit? With all that you've found so far I am guessing it set up for quite awhile...and yes all those clogged jets will cause starting (and running) issues. Also you want to replace those float needles, they are most likely 15 to 20 years old.
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« Last Edit: December 18, 2017, 03:43:53 PM by Harryc »
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dcfan2
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« Reply #2 on: December 18, 2017, 04:10:30 PM » |
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The bike ran very good until i put up for last winter.Sat for about 3 months.Went to start and clunk.Knew not to go any farther.#2  cylynder full of fuel.Drained oil and flushed.pulled carbs again and cleaned.Guess i missed clogged slow jets first time.put back together .hard to start but did start.Rough idle and a little sluggish a top end.With full choke on will try to run and die.Have verified fuel valve is operating prop.Fuel bowls full when pulled.I can blip throttle a few times and it will run for a few seconds and die.
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15211
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #3 on: December 18, 2017, 05:24:26 PM » |
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I would have replaced all the float needles AND the slow jets. Do that instead of trying to clean those jets, the passages are so small you'll sometimes damage them while trying to (unsuccessfully) clean them. If you run a lot of ethanol gas, I'd replace the #35 slow jets with #38. I did that some years back and haven't had a problem with clogged jets since. Some will say the difference in size isn't big enough to have an effect, I say to each their own. I've not had a problem with clogged jets in the 6-7 years I've had the #38's installed so I go with results received. It didn't affect my mileage, doesn't really have any effect on acceleration or HP output.....just doesn't clog up as readily which is all I was after.
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #4 on: December 19, 2017, 02:12:22 AM » |
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I would have replaced all the float needles AND the slow jets. Do that instead of trying to clean those jets, the passages are so small you'll sometimes damage them while trying to (unsuccessfully) clean them. If you run a lot of ethanol gas, I'd replace the #35 slow jets with #38. I did that some years back and haven't had a problem with clogged jets since. Some will say the difference in size isn't big enough to have an effect, I say to each their own. I've not had a problem with clogged jets in the 6-7 years I've had the #38's installed so I go with results received. It didn't affect my mileage, doesn't really have any effect on acceleration or HP output.....just doesn't clog up as readily which is all I was after.
I agree completely. Swap all the float and slow jets while you're there to hopefully avoid going back. I've swapped the slows to 38's on all my Valks and they all start every spring with stable marine as the only treatment. |
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dcfan2
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« Reply #5 on: December 19, 2017, 06:25:01 AM » |
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Would Yall replace the floats as well or just float valves and slow jets
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15211
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #6 on: December 19, 2017, 07:29:33 AM » |
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I never have replaced the floats. If I question one or more of them, I'll submerge them in some gas with a weight to hold them under. Leave them in there for a while and go do other stuff, come back and shake them to see if there's any fluid inside, if so....replace. Might even shake them when you first take them out of the carb since the fluid(gas) won't evaporate that fast from inside. With the needles, it has a tiny spring inside which will often create problems since it becomes weak with age.....kinda like us humans.  Final analysis.....just replace all the moving parts and be done with it. Might cost a bit more but the aggravation of having to pull the carbs again to complete the job makes one think of the old adage about "we never have time to do it right the first time, but always have time to do it over."  |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #7 on: December 19, 2017, 11:04:13 AM » |
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I think somebody (maybe Leathel) determined that the floats had slightly deformed a little. Leaving the float needles not able to close completely. His fix was to use some K&L needles which gave slightly more closing strength . (At least that's what I remember)
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signart
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« Reply #8 on: December 19, 2017, 12:08:25 PM » |
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If I remember, after installing 38 slows, initial recommended pilot setting is 1-3/4 turns out. Someone will correct me if that is not correct. What ever it was, it worked for me.
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dcfan2
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« Reply #9 on: December 19, 2017, 12:23:08 PM » |
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Any recommendations on best place to buy jets and float valves?
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signart
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« Reply #10 on: December 19, 2017, 12:39:54 PM » |
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Hooter
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« Reply #11 on: December 24, 2017, 03:51:46 AM » |
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Did you store the bike with any type of stabilizer? Never let a bike with the crap gas we have set without it. Especially a bike with 6 carbs....If you are running ethenol free you might get by for a few months without an additive?
But, 7 bucks for Sea Foam ( or $ for Stabil) beats the hours spent and money rebuilding carbs. Replace the needles and jets...oh, was the gas left on or turned off? Or did the pet rooster fail while turned off?
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You are never lost if you don't care where you are!
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