rockbobmel
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« on: January 03, 2018, 01:38:43 PM » |
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2002 Valkyrie GL1500CD 1996 Shadow 1100 ACE
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #1 on: January 03, 2018, 02:00:02 PM » |
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Surely you’re not suggesting pulling all six plugs and scoping all the cylinders every time you start the engine?
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rockbobmel
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« Reply #2 on: January 03, 2018, 02:05:55 PM » |
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No, I was just thinking after winter storage.
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2002 Valkyrie GL1500CD 1996 Shadow 1100 ACE
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #3 on: January 03, 2018, 02:32:15 PM » |
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If you were going to do that, you might as well just hit the start button with all the plugs removed.
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mrgeoff
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Posts: 193
My 99 CT..."Liahona"
Augusta, GA.
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« Reply #4 on: January 03, 2018, 02:43:09 PM » |
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I start my bike at least for 10-15 min. every day when it starts getting cold and icy out down here...I think that helps out a little...!!!
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mrgeoff/SANDMAN
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #5 on: January 03, 2018, 03:06:51 PM » |
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When I first joined this forum I read all the dreaded info on hydrolock. It can be very intimidating. Checking your petcock occasionally for proper working order and turning it off for your extended layover is really all you need to do.
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rockbobmel
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« Reply #6 on: January 03, 2018, 06:42:55 PM » |
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When I first joined this forum I read all the dreaded info on hydrolock. It can be very intimidating. Checking your petcock occasionally for proper working order and turning it off for your extended layover is really all you need to do. It got me all worried. I'll prolly get a Dan-Marc put in when the air box comes off next. I am also thinking about the desmog mod.
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2002 Valkyrie GL1500CD 1996 Shadow 1100 ACE
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #7 on: January 03, 2018, 08:30:24 PM » |
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When I first joined this forum I read all the dreaded info on hydrolock. It can be very intimidating. Checking your petcock occasionally for proper working order and turning it off for your extended layover is really all you need to do. It got me all worried. I'll prolly get a Dan-Marc put in when the air box comes off next. I am also thinking about the desmog mod. 
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Bagger John - #3785
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« Reply #8 on: January 04, 2018, 05:38:16 AM » |
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I drain the carbs when prepping for winter storage and leave the bowl drain screws open.
Come spring, close all but one per bank back up then apply some vacuum to the petcock vacuum actuator line. Once fuel starts flowing out of the drain tube I close the other two drain screws down and apply vacuum to the line until the carbs are filled and the bike ready to start. Then I reconnect the line to the #6 intake runner.
In close to 50 cumulative "Valk years" of winter storage, I've never had a hydrolock issue (or a plugged up carb).
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rockbobmel
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« Reply #9 on: January 04, 2018, 06:38:39 AM » |
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I drain the carbs when prepping for winter storage and leave the bowl drain screws open.
Come spring, close all but one per bank back up then apply some vacuum to the petcock vacuum actuator line. Once fuel starts flowing out of the drain tube I close the other two drain screws down and apply vacuum to the line until the carbs are filled and the bike ready to start. Then I reconnect the line to the #6 intake runner.
In close to 50 cumulative "Valk years" of winter storage, I've never had a hydrolock issue (or a plugged up carb).
Yikes! That's way over my head. Maybe as time/learning goes on. (limited skills,tools,no shop)
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2002 Valkyrie GL1500CD 1996 Shadow 1100 ACE
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George B
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« Reply #10 on: January 04, 2018, 08:11:59 AM » |
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I run 5w40 synthetic and ride in winter when I can. The tank is full of non-ethanol fuel and marine stabil. And a rebuilt fuel valve. Every week it gets run til the fan comes on and shut the fuel valve off before shutdown. My Ural and BMW were prone to hydrolock as well. Just a trait of most boxer setups. Keep the carbs clean and shut off the fuel is probably the best way to prevent locking it up. Pulling the carbs are a PITA, but so is replacing pistons and valves.....
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1997 1500CT with California Sidecar Now a Roadsmith Trike conversion Former rides: 1988 BMW R100GS 2007 Ural Patrol 15 HDs from 1937 to 1977
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MarkT
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Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #11 on: January 04, 2018, 08:23:57 AM » |
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IMHO if you do the Dan-Marc you'll be good. That's enough effort to ease your worry and actually enough to prevent hydrolock. The other potential path for the problem - down the #6 vacuum line - I've not seen a documented case where that actually happened. Just posts on the theory. I don't think it could happen unless both diaphrams broke and you also ignored the smell of leaking gas. Both the fuel valve diaphram and the vacuum diaphram have to fail for there to be a path for the fuel to pass down the vacuum line - and there is a vent between them, so if the fuel diaphram cracks, fuel will leak out the vent and you will know you have a failure from the leak. If the vacuum diaphram cracks, you will also know it because the bike won't run with the vacuum diaphram remaining closed due to the leak. There is a mod to change the OEM petcock to full manual, and eliminate the vacuum function - and close off the vacuum line. Here's a thread by Gryphon Rider posted on the VRCC board, on that mod: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php?topic=37577.0 Just do a search if the link breaks. If you worried about it you could install a Pingel or mod the OEM petcock to be manual only, and remove that line and - Bob's your uncle - problem impossible. On Deerslayer I installed a Dan-Marc in '98 and never a problem. Jade has a Dan-Marc and Pingel. Marty has a Dan-Marc. George has a Pingel (and one carb, he's blown).
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« Last Edit: January 04, 2018, 08:30:45 AM by MarkT »
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #12 on: January 04, 2018, 08:36:34 AM » |
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I start my bike at least for 10-15 min. every day when it starts getting cold and icy out down here...I think that helps out a little...!!!
Because much engine wear happens at startup, i.e. before the oil pump gets the oil up to where it needs to be, you will get virtually ALL the engine wear of riding your bike every day, with NONE of the pleasure of riding it. Since you live where you can normally ride it year-round, and since the most you're going to park it is probably less than a month, just simply park it like usual and do nothing else. The only thing that could go wrong that wouldn't go wrong parking it for only a couple of days, is that a weak battery might not start it after a month.
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MarkT
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Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #13 on: January 04, 2018, 08:40:49 AM » |
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I start my bike at least for 10-15 min. every day when it starts getting cold and icy out down here...I think that helps out a little...!!!
Because much engine wear happens at startup, i.e. before the oil pump gets the oil up to where it needs to be, you will get virtually ALL the engine wear of riding your bike every day, with NONE of the pleasure of riding it. Since you live where you can normally ride it year-round, and since the most you're going to park it is probably less than a month, just simply park it like usual and do nothing else. The only thing that could go wrong that wouldn't go wrong parking it for only a couple of days, is that a weak battery might not start it after a month.  +1 Add to that, you'll color your OEM pipes. Probably the most common way the double-wall headers get colored is from doing this w/o setting up a cooling fan. None of my 4 Valks have colored pipes as I don't run them w/o riding.
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« Last Edit: January 04, 2018, 08:42:30 AM by MarkT »
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rockbobmel
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« Reply #14 on: January 04, 2018, 08:45:23 AM » |
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Thank you everyone and MarkT, nice talking with you the other day. Very helpful!
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2002 Valkyrie GL1500CD 1996 Shadow 1100 ACE
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Fazer
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« Reply #15 on: January 04, 2018, 09:20:55 AM » |
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Glad to see what MarkT and Gryphon Rider posted, because I feel the same.  I have to park mine for up to 30 days at a time here in Cincinnati and all I do is put it on a battery tender. With the Dan Marc, I don't even close the petcock, although I probably should. It's always started right up--at least in the three plus years I have owned it.
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Nothing in moderation...
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #16 on: January 04, 2018, 05:12:07 PM » |
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Another trick for occasional starting in winter is to take one of those little ceramic heaters and put it under the engine. After 40 minutes or so, the oil/engine is all nice and warmed up, and the bike is easier to start, and it's much easier on the bike too. Here in VA, we usually get enough 40+ degree days to not have to worry about it, but it hasn't been 40 or above for weeks now.  
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George B
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« Reply #17 on: January 04, 2018, 05:28:20 PM » |
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Another trick for occasional starting in winter is to take one of those little ceramic heaters and put it under the engine. After 40 minutes or so, the oil/engine is all nice and warmed up, and the bike is easier to start, and it's much easier on the bike too. Here in VA, we usually get enough 40+ degree days to not have to worry about it, but it hasn't been 40 or above for weeks now.   +1 on the Tractor Supply heater. My Valk sits in a semi-heated building and I take it out on the road for a good ride when it's above freezing. Also, down here in Southern Ill., we have pretty mild winters. Firing up anything is hard on it at -10 F.
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1997 1500CT with California Sidecar Now a Roadsmith Trike conversion Former rides: 1988 BMW R100GS 2007 Ural Patrol 15 HDs from 1937 to 1977
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #18 on: January 05, 2018, 08:19:23 AM » |
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Or park inside where there is central heat and air  The family room is quit full with the two bikes but they are nice and warm even if it is 20 degrees outside
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rockbobmel
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« Reply #19 on: January 05, 2018, 08:37:33 AM » |
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« Last Edit: January 05, 2018, 08:40:24 AM by rockbobmel »
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2002 Valkyrie GL1500CD 1996 Shadow 1100 ACE
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¿spoom
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« Reply #20 on: January 05, 2018, 02:05:01 PM » |
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Perhaps skipping past the bore scope part, but once you've pulled the plugs to peek into them after storage, you no longer need a bore scope because you can just hit the starter and give a engine 5~6 second spin with the plugs out. You'll want the petcock off and no need to put the choke on, because we aren't stating it, so why feed it any gas? If any cyl.(s) have gas drained into it/them, it'll get spritzed right out the plug holes enough that you will see some raw gas. That's all I do in the Spring, lets me take a look at each plug's condition and makes sure I don't need to fear hydrolock.
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rockbobmel
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« Reply #21 on: January 05, 2018, 03:22:13 PM » |
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Perhaps skipping past the bore scope part, but once you've pulled the plugs to peek into them after storage, you no longer need a bore scope because you can just hit the starter and give a engine 5~6 second spin with the plugs out. You'll want the petcock off and no need to put the choke on, because we aren't stating it, so why feed it any gas? If any cyl.(s) have gas drained into it/them, it'll get spritzed right out the plug holes enough that you will see some raw gas. That's all I do in the Spring, lets me take a look at each plug's condition and makes sure I don't need to fear hydrolock.
I heard about doing that but isn't it real messy?
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2002 Valkyrie GL1500CD 1996 Shadow 1100 ACE
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #22 on: January 05, 2018, 03:42:43 PM » |
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Perhaps skipping past the bore scope part, but once you've pulled the plugs to peek into them after storage, you no longer need a bore scope because you can just hit the starter and give a engine 5~6 second spin with the plugs out. You'll want the petcock off and no need to put the choke on, because we aren't stating it, so why feed it any gas? If any cyl.(s) have gas drained into it/them, it'll get spritzed right out the plug holes enough that you will see some raw gas. That's all I do in the Spring, lets me take a look at each plug's condition and makes sure I don't need to fear hydrolock.
I heard about doing that but isn't it real messy? Not really. And not as messy as hydrolock. Do avoid open flames though.
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rockbobmel
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« Reply #23 on: January 05, 2018, 04:17:35 PM » |
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Do you drape rags over the holes?
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2002 Valkyrie GL1500CD 1996 Shadow 1100 ACE
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #24 on: January 05, 2018, 04:35:20 PM » |
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Do you drape rags over the holes?
Hopefully you won't have any gas in the cylinders to begin with. If I was worried and was going to do this, I'd do it in the open with nothing around.
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rockbobmel
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« Reply #25 on: January 05, 2018, 04:39:24 PM » |
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Yeah, I was just trying to envision where and how the spray would go.
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2002 Valkyrie GL1500CD 1996 Shadow 1100 ACE
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #26 on: January 05, 2018, 05:22:30 PM » |
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Yeah, I was just trying to envision where and how the spray would go.
Having not done it myself, this is just speculation . But I would imagine the compression could shoot it out pretty far. 8-10 feet maybe ?
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #27 on: January 05, 2018, 06:13:56 PM » |
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The whole idea is to discover if any cylinder has fuel in it. You're supposed to be watching.
Each cylinder is only around 250cc, not that much gas, which evaporates quickly.
I suppose you could cover them, then inspect the cover for gas spots.
Good time to avoid open flames and such.
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Bighead
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« Reply #28 on: January 05, 2018, 07:09:55 PM » |
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Yeah, I was just trying to envision where and how the spray would go.
Having not done it myself, this is just speculation . But I would imagine the compression could shoot it out pretty far. 8-10 feet maybe ? Shouldn't be any compression with all the plugs out 
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1997 Bumble Bee 1999 Interstate (sold) 2016 Wing
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #29 on: January 06, 2018, 04:15:37 AM » |
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Yeah, I was just trying to envision where and how the spray would go.
Having not done it myself, this is just speculation . But I would imagine the compression could shoot it out pretty far. 8-10 feet maybe ? Shouldn't be any compression with all the plugs out  You are right. It was a poor choice of words. Compression stroke would be more accurate.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #30 on: January 06, 2018, 04:40:44 AM » |
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Yeah, I was just trying to envision where and how the spray would go.
Having not done it myself, this is just speculation . But I would imagine the compression could shoot it out pretty far. 8-10 feet maybe ? Shouldn't be any compression with all the plugs out  Wouldn't be any compression with the spark plugs removed IF there was no gas in there. Now the cylinder full of gas will be under considerable pressure untill all the gas gets out that little hole. Since technically liquid isn't compressible it's a little different but still enough pressure to create an impressive display.
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Skinhead
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Posts: 8726
J. A. B. O. A.
Troy, MI
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« Reply #31 on: January 06, 2018, 06:06:26 AM » |
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Be careful to not allow plug wires to spark while doing this, especially inside. Personally, I would just bump the starter ad listed for the THUNK. That or roll the bike in gear with ignition off.
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 Troy, MI
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¿spoom
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« Reply #32 on: January 06, 2018, 07:18:55 AM » |
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Perhaps because I've never had hydrolock, but I don't know how far it would go, or if it'd do more than pop out an inch or two. The plug hole really isn't that small when you look at the volume of a cylinder and that they can't ALL be at the bottom of their stroke. Though I suppose it'd be possible for a plug to touch it off, any gas that shot out would be raw, not an atomized mixture. Maybe I'll find out for sure in the Spring, but there's a fire extinguisher on the wall about 3' from the bike
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¿spoom
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« Reply #33 on: January 06, 2018, 07:22:48 AM » |
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"Surely you’re not suggesting pulling all six plugs and scoping all the cylinders every time you start the engine?" No, and stop calling me Shirley. (Sorry, thought of the line from "Airplane!" and I couldn't resist.)
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #34 on: January 06, 2018, 07:25:13 AM » |
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Perhaps because I've never had hydrolock, but I don't know how far it would go, or if it'd do more than pop out an inch or two. The plug hole really isn't that small when you look at the volume of a cylinder and that they can't ALL be at the bottom of their stroke. Though I suppose it'd be possible for a plug to touch it off, any gas that shot out would be raw, not an atomized mixture. Maybe I'll find out for sure in the Spring, but there's a fire extinguisher on the wall about 3' from the bike Just as a little safety notice, anyone who doesn't have/keep a decent size fire extinguisher (with the little arrow still in the green) within easy reach of their motorcycles is a dang fool.  Especially when you're as good at electrical as I am. Not going down the road..... at home.  See the arrow?  I have them next to the stove and in the utility room too. YMMV
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« Last Edit: January 06, 2018, 07:35:07 AM by Jess from VA »
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #35 on: January 06, 2018, 07:59:47 AM » |
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Perhaps because I've never had hydrolock, but I don't know how far it would go, or if it'd do more than pop out an inch or two. The plug hole really isn't that small when you look at the volume of a cylinder and that they can't ALL be at the bottom of their stroke. Though I suppose it'd be possible for a plug to touch it off, any gas that shot out would be raw, not an atomized mixture. Maybe I'll find out for sure in the Spring, but there's a fire extinguisher on the wall about 3' from the bike if you pull the plugs and use the tire in gear or a socket wrench on the crank, the gas will flow out slowly, if you turn the motor slowly. If you use the starter, the gas will shoot out a considerable distance. I discovered that in a parking lot in Florida one year and my buddy standing in the line of fire wasn't happy.
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Dusty
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« Reply #36 on: January 06, 2018, 01:47:23 PM » |
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My buddy BURNED his lawn tractor to SCRAP.  He pulled the plug and turned the engine over. There was gas in the cylinder and while it was spraying out the ignition lead arced to ground. by the time he got to the house and brought the hose the plastic was all on fire. Just a reminder Dusty
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¿spoom
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« Reply #38 on: January 06, 2018, 06:40:24 PM » |
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Perhaps skipping past the bore scope part, but once you've pulled the plugs to peek into them after storage, you no longer need a bore scope because you can just hit the starter and give a engine 5~6 second spin with the plugs out. You'll want the petcock off and no need to put the choke on, because we aren't stating it, so why feed it any gas? If any cyl.(s) have gas drained into it/them, it'll get spritzed right out the plug holes enough that you will see some raw gas. That's all I do in the Spring, lets me take a look at each plug's condition and makes sure I don't need to fear hydrolock.
I heard about doing that but isn't it real messy? apparently, it is, but only IF you find a full cyl(s) 
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¿spoom
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« Reply #39 on: January 06, 2018, 06:46:37 PM » |
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Perhaps because I've never had hydrolock, but I don't know how far it would go, or if it'd do more than pop out an inch or two. The plug hole really isn't that small when you look at the volume of a cylinder and that they can't ALL be at the bottom of their stroke. Though I suppose it'd be possible for a plug to touch it off, any gas that shot out would be raw, not an atomized mixture. Maybe I'll find out for sure in the Spring, but there's a fire extinguisher on the wall about 3' from the bike if you pull the plugs and use the tire in gear or a socket wrench on the crank, the gas will flow out slowly, if you turn the motor slowly. If you use the starter, the gas will shoot out a considerable distance. I discovered that in a parking lot in Florida one year and my buddy standing in the line of fire wasn't happy. I like that idea, will take your and Dusty's advice to heart. At the least, I'll pull the eng. fuse first and toss shop rags across the open plug holes. Thx.
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