Can't find neutral "UPDATE" !!!

[Roidfingers]

98 standard. 10,000 miles. Had hydrolocked and busted the gears. Got it fixed and back running. Lots of detail , but not that bad to do. Now it wont go to neutral.  We put in cheap oil with some B12 to run for a few miles to help clean it out then plan to drain and put in MObil1. Any suggestions? We never unstacked the plates on clutch and it went in fairly easy.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Is the issue that you can’t get it in neutral or can’t get the light to come on ?

[WintrSol]

Is it running when you attempt to find neutral?
Did you bleed all the air from the clutch lines, especially the banjo fitting at the master cylinder?
Are the shifter joints tight?

Usually, difficulty finding neutral with the engine running is the clutch not fully releasing, or with too much drag between the plates because of the oil. If that may be the case, and you don't yet want to drain and refill the oil, you can stop in gear, kill the engine, then rock the bike while attempting to put it back in neutral.

[indybobm]

What happens if you try to start it in gear with the side stand up and the clutch lever pulled in? Does it try to creep forward?

[Hooter]

Have you actually rode the bike since the fix? Cheap oil, for wet clutch application? I know some say it doesn't matter if oil is wet clutch compatable but it sure screwed up the clutch in my cousins bike (Valk) last summer. Adding anything to the oil in a wet clutch system , something I have never done.

Maybe it is alright, but B12 and non essential oil to me is a gamble anyway, maybe not? I'm sure someone here will chime in , but could that have something to do with the clutch not acting right?  Or, is something unhooked like the neutral switch?

[Roidfingers]

Can't get it in neutral. Don't understand what you mean by the shifter joints. I'm just posting for the guy with the bike. I will be riding my fat gurl up to his house today to see whats up. He's having an issue with feul starvation too, so that's first on the list. Then thinking get it to temp and then drain oil and change to good stuff. I will check the clutch lever to see what it feels like also.

Keep your thoughts coming. TIA

[The emperor has no clothes]

Can't get it in neutral. Don't understand what you mean by the shifter joints. I'm just posting for the guy with the bike. I will be riding my fat gurl up to his house today to see whats up. He's having an issue with feul starvation too, so that's first on the list. Then thinking get it to temp and then drain oil and change to good stuff. I will check the clutch lever to see what it feels like also.

Keep your thoughts coming. TIA

I think he is talking about the shifter shaft and associated connections.

[Roidfingers]

Can't get it in neutral. Don't understand what you mean by the shifter joints. I'm just posting for the guy with the bike. I will be riding my fat gurl up to his house today to see whats up. He's having an issue with feul starvation too, so that's first on the list. Then thinking get it to temp and then drain oil and change to good stuff. I will check the clutch lever to see what it feels like also.

Keep your thoughts coming. TIA

I think he is talking about the shifter shaft and associated connections.

Just has the OEM lever. Unless he's talking internal. But with only 10,000 on bike, don't think that would be an issue.

[Roidfingers]

Did the owner do the hyro-lock repair himself or did someone else do it? How experienced is he?

I did it with owners help. I've done all my maintenance on my own valk. Ex B52 Crewchief. Was fairly easy. Don't see where that would be a factor. He bought the bike for 1000, already knowing it was hydrolocked.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Can't get it in neutral. Don't understand what you mean by the shifter joints. I'm just posting for the guy with the bike. I will be riding my fat gurl up to his house today to see whats up. He's having an issue with feul starvation too, so that's first on the list. Then thinking get it to temp and then drain oil and change to good stuff. I will check the clutch lever to see what it feels like also.

Keep your thoughts coming. TIA

I think he is talking about the shifter shaft and associated connections.

Just has the OEM lever. Unless he's talking internal. But with only 10,000 on bike, don't think that would be an issue.

Its probably not the issue. But the way I took his comment was to make sure the clamps on the the shifter are tightened up. If they are loose that would leave a little play that could prevent complete shifter throw. From what you've described I tend to go with the idea of the added B12 being an issue.

[WintrSol]

There are two joints in the gear shift linkage; the one that connects the lever to the arm, and the arm to the spindle. If either bolt is loose, the shift linkage can be sloppy, making it more difficult to find the neutral detent. Mine got easier when I torqued both bolts to spec.

[Roidfingers]

There are two joints in the gear shift linkage; the one that connects the lever to the arm, and the arm to the spindle. If either bolt is loose, the shift linkage can be sloppy, making it more difficult to find the neutral detent. Mine got easier when I torqued both bolts to spec.

I'll check that out. Thanks.

[indybobm]

Did the owner do the hyro-lock repair himself or did someone else do it? How experienced is he?

I did it with owners help. I've done all my maintenance on my own valk. Ex B52 Crewchief. Was fairly easy. Don't see where that would be a factor. He bought the bike for 1000, already knowing it was hydrolocked.

Do you know if the clutch was working properly before the hydro-lock?

[Savago]

I would start with the simpler possible solution and work towards more sophisticated:
a) Change the cheap oil and put some Mobil 1 full synthetic or maybe Rotella T6.
b) If not fixed, flush the clutch fluid.
c) If not fixed, try to log a few hundred miles in the bike (I heard that wet clutch bikes if seating for a long time can get sticky clutch plates).
d) If not fixed, inspect if it is a matter of engaging the neutral X the neutral light.

[indybobm]

Do you know if the clutch was working properly before the hydro-lock?

This is the first time I have quoted my own previous reply.

Anyway, I was wondering if the hydro-lock occured because the bike had been sitting a while due to a bad clutch (rivet failure).

[The emperor has no clothes]

Do you know if the clutch was working properly before the hydro-lock?

This is the first time I have quoted my own previous reply.

Anyway, I was wondering if the hydro-lock occured because the bike had been sitting a while due to a bad clutch (rivet failure).

But, can you pull off a triple ? 

[Roidfingers]

Have know idea if clutch was bad prior to hydrolock. We had it running and in neutral after the hydrolock fix. I'm thinking as stated above. warm it up. Change oil to synthetic. Flush clutch line again.

[indybobm]

Probably a good sign.

[Gavin_Sons]

What kind of cheap oil did you use? Does it have friction modifiers in it?

[Roidfingers]

What kind of cheap oil did you use? Does it have friction modifiers in it?

Don't know what oil was used. Got the oil changed. I don't think he went with synthetic, ( that's what I run) but he said it was designated as motorcycle oil. ??? He's gonna bleed clutch system again.

[WintrSol]

He's gonna bleed clutch system again.

The banjo fitting at the master cylinder can be the hardest spot to get all the bubbles out. The least messy way is to get the reservoir tilted so that that fitting is lower than the mc; to do this, you have to loosen the bolts and slide it up and over the curve of the bars, and maybe put a block under the side stand. Then, VERY slowly pull the lever until it stops, count to 10, then let the lever snap back. The flow of fluid back to the mc should draw some air out. Repeat several times, gently working the lever after a few to expel the bubbles out of the mc and into the reservoir through the small vents  in the bottom of the reservoir. If you do this with the cover off, you can see any bubbles, but you risk splashing fluid, and it will discolor polished parts and soften paint.

[Roidfingers]

Ok, we are pretty sure its just stuck clutch plates. He's been riding it and its gotten way better after oil change. All gears work fine except 1st. I told him to keep riding and hopefully will break free. Gonna ride it a few hundred then change to synthetic. Thanks for all the help. Was getting worried I'd have to pull motor again. Just a heads up. If you get a bike that has hydrolock and has been sitting for a few yrs. When you pull the clutch basket. Soak it in some synthetic oil and also make sure all plates are free before reinstalling. We never thought to do that and have never read any where that we should. We know now. 

[Savago]

@Roidfingers: so I guess happy end?
 

Thanks for posting an update in the story (it is a bit disappointing when people post about a mechanical issue and disappear without commenting how it ended).

[Roidfingers]

@Roidfingers: so I guess happy end?
 

Thanks for posting an update in the story (it is a bit disappointing when people post about a mechanical issue and disappear without commenting how it ended).

Good so far. Yea, been on here a lot over past 3 years. Don't see a lot of resolutions. Made sure I updated for that very reason.

[Hooter]

Thanks for the update! What you say is so true.  Guys come here with a problem.  Others offer a solution and after the original post you NEVER know if someone's suggestion fixed a problem.  The original poster never returns. To me it's annoying, but hey, that's just me.