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Murrgh
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« on: January 26, 2018, 04:28:50 PM » |
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So I found out today that when I turn my fuel valve to, "Off" - it doesn't actually turn off. I let my Valkyrie run for about 10 minutes in the "Off" position and nothing happened. I have a cover set rebuild kit, but I haven't put it on yet. Is it worth repairing this petcock, or going the Pingle route?
Thanks
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Pete
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« Reply #1 on: January 26, 2018, 04:42:29 PM » |
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Rebuild it.
Also clean the check valve/ball real good.
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Blackduck
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« Reply #2 on: January 26, 2018, 05:32:04 PM » |
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Also check the knob/shaft is not binding on the Chrome cover, it can hold the ball of the seat.
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2001 Standard, 78 Goldwing, VRCC 21411
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15210
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #3 on: January 26, 2018, 05:46:10 PM » |
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Personally, I'd bust for the Pingel. I know a number of owners always say how they've gone a gazilion miles on the factory petcock....kudos to them and their luck. The OEM petcock is the weakest link in the Valkyrie fuel delivery system and it's a known factor regardless of statements to the contrary. I have the remains of two OEM petcocks on the shelf, one replaced the other and each was "recovered" one time before I replaced it with a Pingel along with an external filter and DanMarc shutoff. That way some years ago and haven't had the first minutes trouble since. Your results may differ.  |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #4 on: January 26, 2018, 05:49:36 PM » |
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Mine did the same thing. I rebuilt it. It messed up again in a year. I got rid of it for a Pingel.
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gordonv
Member
Posts: 5760
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #5 on: January 26, 2018, 06:34:19 PM » |
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First, insure that you actually turned it off. While turning into each position, you should feel the ball drop into position.
Mine would not turn off when turned from On-Off. I would have to turn it from Res-Off, to insure that it was off. Other than storage, I never turn it off. I'm fully aware what hydro lock is and am causes ever time I press the start button, prepared to stop and not press it again if any unusual sound is heard.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS   |
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Dale_K
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« Reply #6 on: January 27, 2018, 07:41:13 AM » |
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I tried idling my bike until it stopped to test the fuel shutoff valve and it takes a REALLY long time before the motor shuts off.
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0leman
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« Reply #7 on: January 27, 2018, 07:58:08 AM » |
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Try going for a ride, find a slope where the traffic is almost non existent. Turn off gas, ride up the hill to see if your Valk will stop. If it does, do a U-turn, turn on gas, do a bump start. If it doesn't stop, you have a problem. Not sure a cover set will fix the problem. think it imaybe the manual shutoff not turning off. May have to replace it or remove the rivets and turn it into a total manual petcock.
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2006 Shadow Spirit 1100 gone but not forgotten
1999 Valkryie I/S Green/Silver
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #8 on: January 27, 2018, 10:27:50 AM » |
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I tried idling my bike until it stopped to test the fuel shutoff valve and it takes a REALLY long time before the motor shuts off.
A really long time Even while riding it takes a couple miles. |
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RonW
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« Reply #9 on: January 27, 2018, 11:09:16 AM » |
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It takes a while idling to drain the carb. What I'm unsure of is when I ran outta gas ..... I thought it was too soon to use the reserve based on the odometer ..... I parked it on the side of the road without turning it to reserve, and after several attempts trying for nought to re-start, I let the bike sit for a while, turned on reserve, then hit the start button ..... and it started up. So how did the fuel get to the carbs without vacuum. The bike was parked not coasting on the highway.
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
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Murrgh
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« Reply #10 on: January 27, 2018, 02:13:22 PM » |
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I tried idling my bike until it stopped to test the fuel shutoff valve and it takes a REALLY long time before the motor shuts off.
A really long time Even while riding it takes a couple miles. Wow, a couple of miles? Good to know. |
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Jruby38
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« Reply #11 on: January 27, 2018, 03:15:18 PM » |
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Like John said, crap can the OEM POS for a Pingel. Cheep Insurance against the expense and hassle of hydrolock. I did at the first leak 10 years and 100k miles ago.
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Firefighter
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« Reply #12 on: January 27, 2018, 05:33:23 PM » |
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I turn mine off while riding once in a while, use reserve also. Valk engines with six carbs don't just shut off. If you are at 50 or 60 mph the engine will slowly slow down, you will know, switch the valve back on and it picks right up.
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red
2006 Honda Sabre 1100
2013 Honda Spirit 750
2002 Honda Rebel 250
1978 Honda 750
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da prez
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« Reply #13 on: January 28, 2018, 09:11:24 AM » |
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Do the vacuum gage test. This is one of the few times I did agree with john somewhat. I prefer the oem. Now , about oilllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll.  da prez |
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Willow
Administrator
Member
Posts: 16608
Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP
Olathe, KS
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« Reply #14 on: January 28, 2018, 03:55:43 PM » |
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Listen to what others have said. Idling is not a good way to test as it takes a LONG time to empty the carb bowls. About two miles riding down the road is fairly normal to start seeing signs. It may be closer to 2.5 or 3 miles to completely die.
Your petcock is probably just fine. Most are. I have 185,000 miles on the OEM petcock.
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #15 on: January 29, 2018, 08:30:58 AM » |
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Listen: If you think that shutting "off" the fuel and letting the engine run down, is an accurate predictor of the possibility of "hydrolock", well, you could be in for a rude awakening some day.
The reason I say this because this "test" reveals nothing about the workability of the fuel petcock.
If you are interested in seeing if your fuel petcock truly shuts off the fuel supply, you must disconnect the fuel line at the petcock and observe what happens.
Why do I say this? Well, it only takes a small amount of leaking to allow "hydrolock" to occur. Like a few drops per minute, or even less.
The engine cannot run on a few drops per minute, so when your engine starts sputtering, or whatever, what do you think this indicates?
Don't be fooled and think you are avoiding "hydrolock".
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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RonW
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« Reply #16 on: January 29, 2018, 10:11:56 AM » |
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I've never understood why you have to throw empty beer bottles at people, Ricky-D. Not disagreeing with the substance of your post.
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #17 on: January 29, 2018, 10:15:09 AM » |
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There are really two valves within the OEM petcock. The first valve is the ON-OFF-RESERVE valve, actuated by the hand knob. There is no Honda kit to fix it. The second valve is the vacuum-on valve. When the engine is spinning (including when the starter motor spins it) intake vacuum opens the valve, allowing fuel to flow if the first valve is in the RESERVE or ON position. This valve consists of a couple of rubber diaphragms, a vacuum diaphragm and a fuel diaphragm, which can fail. If the vacuum diaphragm fails, the engine is starved of fuel. If the fuel diaphragm seal fails, fuel will leak past it when the engine is not running IF the first valve is not OFF. If the fuel diaphragm has a hole in it, fuel can pass through the hole and will drip out the small vent hole on the bottom of the petcock. The "cover set" kit provides those diaphragms and other related parts.
Like others have said, turning off the fuel valve still allows the engine to run on the fuel already in the carbs, and if the bike is just idling, this can take a long time, maybe 10-15 minutes. If the engine is under heavy load requiring a large twist of the throttle grip, it will use the fuel in the carbs quite quickly when you turn the fuel off. Casual urban riding will allow the bike to travel 1/2 to 2 miles before sputtering.
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MarkT
Member
Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #18 on: January 29, 2018, 11:59:51 AM » |
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Yep. I have modded both Jade and Deerslayer with a security system on the Dan-Marcs. It doesn't activate unless you hit a hidden momentary sw after starting, that triggers a latch relay. The relay also shuts down if the tilt relay, the kill sw, or the key are cycled. Sometimes I forget to hit the momentary sw on startup. Or I don't push it hard enough. If it's not activated, the hidden blue LED isn't on. The bikes always sputter at 1.3 miles. They deliver the same mileage, 34mpg nearly always. Except when riding with others that changes my style. Esp. with the S.O. on her Magna. Then I get close to 50mpg and the bikes will get to 2 mi before sputtering. Nice that I inadvertently check the Dan-Marc functioning randomly.
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Bighead
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« Reply #19 on: January 29, 2018, 02:16:33 PM » |
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Like John said, crap can the OEM POS for a Pingel. Cheep Insurance against the expense and hassle of hydrolock. I did at the first leak 10 years and 100k miles ago.
It takes more than a bad petcock to cause Hydrolock...... |
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15210
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #20 on: January 29, 2018, 02:26:01 PM » |
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Like John said, crap can the OEM POS for a Pingel. Cheep Insurance against the expense and hassle of hydrolock. I did at the first leak 10 years and 100k miles ago.
It takes more than a bad petcock to cause Hydrolock...... +1 |
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Bighead
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« Reply #21 on: January 29, 2018, 05:28:51 PM » |
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Like John said, crap can the OEM POS for a Pingel. Cheep Insurance against the expense and hassle of hydrolock. I did at the first leak 10 years and 100k miles ago.
It takes more than a bad petcock to cause Hydrolock...... +1 John I find it funny how many think that a pingel alone will solve the hydro lock problem. And how many think the OaeM is the only cause of it  |
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
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Pete
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« Reply #22 on: January 30, 2018, 07:03:47 AM » |
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If the oem petcock is allowing fuel to flow in the off position and no engine vacuum.
The off/on/res manual valve (ball check) is not seating properly and the fuel side of the vacuum diaphram is leaking or not sealed.
FIX BOTH - replace the diaphrams and clean the ball check valve and chamber.
You do not have to disassemble the ball check valve and chamber, you can lean it with a good cleaner after removing the diaphram by flushing thru the reserve and on ports and back flushing thru the diaphram port. Flush until it absolutely clean and works smoothly.
You may have a dirty gas tank if the ball check valve has crap in it, so clean the tank and filter screen or it will happen again.
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