Jims99
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« on: September 16, 2018, 06:16:44 AM » |
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My old forks started to deteriorate everywhere the wind would whip around a bracket or edge of shield. I replaced them with a polished set about 1000 miles ago. The new ones doing the same. I have never seen this before, though maybe old forks had been stressed at one point before me. Could it be some kind of wind static? Any pilots on here that may know something about this? I will try and get some pictures loaded. Thanks
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The light at the end of the tunnel, is a train. 99 tourer 00 interstate 97 standard 91 wing 78 trail 70
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sandy
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« Reply #1 on: September 16, 2018, 07:03:08 AM » |
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Your climate is probably the culprit. This doesn't happen in AZ.
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Tfrank59
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Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2018, 07:34:21 AM » |
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My old forks started to deteriorate everywhere the wind would whip around a bracket or edge of shield. I replaced them with a polished set about 1000 miles ago. The new ones doing the same. I have never seen this before, though maybe old forks had been stressed at one point before me. Could it be some kind of wind static? Any pilots on here that may know something about this? I will try and get some pictures loaded. Thanks
Forgive my ignorance, but what do you mean? In what sense are your forks deteriorating--is the metal becoming fatigued? (Pretty sure you're not saying the seals are leaking.) I have never heard of forks becoming deteriorated in the way you describe here, and I can't imagine motorcycle forks becoming unserviceable in 1000 miles, no matter what the conditions. please elaborate.
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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« Reply #3 on: September 16, 2018, 07:43:58 AM » |
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Is this your first bike?
Where is the bike kept?
Is it open to the sea air?
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16775
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #4 on: September 16, 2018, 07:51:56 AM » |
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Your climate is probably the culprit. This doesn't happen in AZ.
This is my guess too... mine had a surface deterioration, the surface was kind of rotted, crumbly... I noticed it as I was cleaning my bike up after I bought it on eBay from Philadelphia. I turned the deteriorated surface toward my bike, exposing a clean good surface. No more deterioration in the last ten or eleven years.... Maybe you live in an environment where you need to wax or clearcoat or something... -Mike
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Tfrank59
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Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #5 on: September 16, 2018, 08:32:13 AM » |
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Okay still waiting to hear from the OP about this deterioration but I'm gathering from other responses that you're talking about corrosion of the chrome are you not? if that's what's going on and it's occurring in a very short period of time, then it must be a combination of environment and a poor job of plating in the first place. I can't imagine that would happened on OEM forks unless some kind of caustic exposure which I can't figure even in a coastal climate
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16775
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #6 on: September 16, 2018, 04:36:06 PM » |
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On my bike it was corrosion of aluminum surfaces, not the chromed sliders...
-Mike
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Jims99
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« Reply #7 on: September 17, 2018, 05:48:36 AM » |
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I have had bikes all my life ( starting at 8 years old ) I always keep clean and waxed, bike is stored in garage and have always lived in Florida. I have never seen anything like this before. It’s not corrosion, the aluminum on the upper section behind the edge of shield and behind brackets is deteriorating. Almost looks like a tree that was hit by lightning. I’m thinking some kind of static charge from the air coming around the edges. I checked ground to the forks and all’s good. Another thought, I haven’t changed the antifreeze on this bike, was told everything was always dealer serviced so assumed (I know) it’s been done. I know on diesel trucks, antifreeze can over time build up electrolices and start to deteriorate aluminum. Wondering if that could have anything to do with it. They are not shot yet, but starting to flake a little. The old forks I tried sanding out and painted, but still got worse under the paint. So I thought maybe P.O. ran into something and stressed them. But the new ones are starting to do the same. Bike is 99 tourer 59kmiles Still can’t figure out how to post pictures.
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The light at the end of the tunnel, is a train. 99 tourer 00 interstate 97 standard 91 wing 78 trail 70
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NEHI
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« Reply #8 on: September 17, 2018, 06:29:50 AM » |
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I know exactly what you are referring to, my I/S is doing the same thing in the area on the forks where the wind is coming off my air deflectors. The best way I can describe it is it looks like the aluminum is flaking off it almost looks like it is rotting. I also live in Florida, but most of my riding has been out of state.
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Tfrank59
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Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #9 on: September 17, 2018, 06:53:02 AM » |
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that is strange. doesn't the factory coating prevent most of that? unless of course it's been removed. Aluminum (esp cast) is quite porous, so you have to do something to the raw surface to prevent the start of corrosion. I understand that once that process begins it basically never ends, just slows.
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15207
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #10 on: September 17, 2018, 07:46:50 AM » |
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Well, I live in Fla. but not near either of those large lakes on either side of the peninsula(the gulf and Atlantic). That said, I don't have that problem and the bike has been in Fla. its entire life.
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TJ
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« Reply #11 on: September 17, 2018, 10:11:14 AM » |
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I've worked on a number of bikes that have this problem here in Fl. A lot of it is caused by just having a dirty bike and not cleaning them , that and are favorite little bug down here. ( Love Bugs ) It seem it's just a cleaning problem... Before Jims99 got it...
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Savago
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« Reply #12 on: September 17, 2018, 12:15:09 PM » |
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Photos would be helpful to better understand what is happening.
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larue
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« Reply #13 on: September 17, 2018, 04:25:21 PM » |
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Take them off and get them professionally polished. The flaking coating will be gone and you'll have mirror finish forks. I had the same on my tourer which had an aftermarket windshield and the forks mounts were apparently too tight causing the coating to flake underneath them and in between the lower and upper ring mounts due to the previous owner adjusting them up and down for the right fit.
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Jims99
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« Reply #14 on: September 17, 2018, 07:21:57 PM » |
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Take them off and get them professionally polished. The flaking coating will be gone and you'll have mirror finish forks. I had the same on my tourer which had an aftermarket windshield and the forks mounts were apparently too tight causing the coating to flake underneath them and in between the lower and upper ring mounts due to the previous owner adjusting them up and down for the right fit.
I polished the hell out of them before installing them. Look great. I've worked on a number of bikes that have this problem here in Fl. A lot of it is caused by just having a dirty bike and not cleaning them , that and are favorite little bug down here. ( Love Bugs ) It seem it's just a cleaning problem... Before Jims99 got it...
I keep it cleaned and waxed all the time. I know exactly what you are referring to, my I/S is doing the same thing in the area on the forks where the wind is coming off my air deflectors. The best way I can describe it is it looks like the aluminum is flaking off it almost looks like it is rotting. I also live in Florida, but most of my riding has been out of state.
Exactly. I live and ride by the coast all my life, never had this happen. If I can’t get this figured out, maybe switch to vtx forks.
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The light at the end of the tunnel, is a train. 99 tourer 00 interstate 97 standard 91 wing 78 trail 70
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Jims99
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« Reply #15 on: September 20, 2018, 04:19:26 AM » |
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The light at the end of the tunnel, is a train. 99 tourer 00 interstate 97 standard 91 wing 78 trail 70
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #16 on: September 20, 2018, 05:03:17 AM » |
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not going to sign up for facebook, no way!
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #17 on: September 20, 2018, 10:13:47 AM » |
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not going to sign up for facebook, no way! I'm signed in to Facebook, yet I get, "The link you followed may have expired, or the page may only be visible to an audience you're not in."
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Paladin528
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« Reply #18 on: September 20, 2018, 10:50:31 AM » |
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unprotected aluminium corrodes into a white powder. Any moisture under a clamp or the like that is unpainted will begin to dull and then turn literally to dust. Culprits that will accelerate this process are among other things salt air and moisture as well as your choice of cleaning liquid. one must make sure any cleaner is thoroughly rinsed off before drying.
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« Reply #19 on: September 20, 2018, 02:16:44 PM » |
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I have had bikes all my life ( starting at 8 years old ) I always keep clean and waxed, bike is stored in garage and have always lived in Florida. I have never seen anything like this before. It’s not corrosion, the aluminum on the upper section behind the edge of shield and behind brackets is deteriorating. Almost looks like a tree that was hit by lightning. I’m thinking some kind of static charge from the air coming around the edges. I checked ground to the forks and all’s good. Another thought, I haven’t changed the antifreeze on this bike, was told everything was always dealer serviced so assumed (I know) it’s been done. I know on diesel trucks, antifreeze can over time build up electrolices and start to deteriorate aluminum. Wondering if that could have anything to do with it. They are not shot yet, but starting to flake a little. The old forks I tried sanding out and painted, but still got worse under the paint. So I thought maybe P.O. ran into something and stressed them. But the new ones are starting to do the same. Bike is 99 tourer 59kmiles Still can’t figure out how to post pictures.
https://postimages.org/Create an account using SIGN UP box top right Create a new gallery by clicking on the box towards the top left Upload photos. Do max of 4 at a time or it can take too long. Once uploaded put your cursor on the image you want to put on the VRCC forum Now move your cursor to the symbol to left of the trash bin symbol Click on it Now copy the "Hotlink" for forums. Now go to the VRCC post you want the photo to appear in and right click and paste. Once you then post your comment the photo should appear for all to see.
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« Reply #20 on: September 20, 2018, 02:18:04 PM » |
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Jims99
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« Reply #21 on: September 21, 2018, 04:29:38 AM » |
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« Last Edit: September 21, 2018, 04:52:31 AM by Jims99 »
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The light at the end of the tunnel, is a train. 99 tourer 00 interstate 97 standard 91 wing 78 trail 70
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Tfrank59
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Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #23 on: September 21, 2018, 05:07:28 AM » |
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+1. yeah it's like do you live on mars or something?
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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« Reply #24 on: September 21, 2018, 05:43:07 AM » |
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That looks like someone has sprayed a corrosive on to the forks.
Damn that's weird.
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Savago
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« Reply #25 on: September 21, 2018, 12:00:11 PM » |
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Really weird, it is like the aluminum is flaking.
Maybe sanding it really good and applying some coating would help?
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #26 on: September 21, 2018, 12:20:43 PM » |
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I've certainly never seen that before. Makes me wonder if you live on the same road as a chemical company who ships their chemicals in leaky trucks.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #27 on: September 21, 2018, 01:15:12 PM » |
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I've certainly never seen that before. Makes me wonder if you live on the same road as a chemical company who ships their chemicals in leaky trucks.
No kidding. I wonder what his boots and pants look like.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #28 on: September 21, 2018, 03:09:49 PM » |
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Also never seen anything like it.
It looks like a bad batch of metallurgy, but it cannot have only happened once.
In the firearm world, I have seen guns terribly affected by a man with very acid skin (it happens), but not an entire set of forks.
My mother would say.......... what in the H E L L have you gotten into now?
Really reaching, I have heard of people who have had friends and loved ones sabotage a man's great hobby because of jealousy of the hobby. But what could you pour on aluminum to make that happen? (battery acid, H2SO4 ?, zip strip) If it was sabotage, I would think whatever was used would not be on only the forks, but other surrounding things, like the front fender paint.
Even though now out of warranty and old, that almost warrants an email with pics to HQ Honda, though they would probably just stand behind the long out of warranty line.
I think those don't need fixed, they need replaced.
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« Last Edit: September 21, 2018, 03:35:45 PM by Jess from VA »
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gordonv
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Posts: 5760
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #29 on: September 21, 2018, 04:33:05 PM » |
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I think you have some kind of galvanic electrolysis going on, that is unique to your bike. At the price of forks, I would almost think a complete tear done and reassemble with a major inspection, is in order. Unless it might be as simple as disconnection any additions that have been added to your battery connections. 
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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Savago
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« Reply #30 on: September 21, 2018, 11:45:44 PM » |
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I think those don't need fixed, they need replaced.
Indeed. Probably the safest course.
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Jims99
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« Reply #31 on: September 22, 2018, 04:53:04 AM » |
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Also never seen anything like it.
It looks like a bad batch of metallurgy, but it cannot have only happened once.
In the firearm world, I have seen guns terribly affected by a man with very acid skin (it happens), but not an entire set of forks.
My mother would say.......... what in the H E L L have you gotten into now?
Really reaching, I have heard of people who have had friends and loved ones sabotage a man's great hobby because of jealousy of the hobby. But what could you pour on aluminum to make that happen? (battery acid, H2SO4 ?, zip strip) If it was sabotage, I would think whatever was used would not be on only the forks, but other surrounding things, like the front fender paint.
Even though now out of warranty and old, that almost warrants an email with pics to HQ Honda, though they would probably just stand behind the long out of warranty line.
I think those don't need fixed, they need replaced.
thats one thing I was thinking about with antifreeze. I know it can affect aluminum on diesel trucks, but never heard of it on gas vehicles. The last pictures are new (used but newly rebuilt and polished) that have about 1000 miles on them. Seems to affect where the wind whips around brackets and edge of shield. None of the guys I ride with get it, just me. I am getting a good solid ground to forks also.
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The light at the end of the tunnel, is a train. 99 tourer 00 interstate 97 standard 91 wing 78 trail 70
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« Reply #32 on: September 22, 2018, 12:43:43 PM » |
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is the Valkyrie normally grounded to the forks?
Remember I'm the electrical dunce in this group.
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JimBob
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Diamondhead, MS airport (66Y)
Mississippi Gulf Coast- Hancock county
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« Reply #33 on: September 23, 2018, 12:06:28 AM » |
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Hi Jims99! The aluminum 'flaking' is called Intergranular Corrosion. I have seen it on some equipment my agency used to make, I have seen it on old, abandoned airplanes..... and I saw it on the forks of my '97 Valkyrie when I first bought it. This happens when certain aluminum alloys are unprotected in a corrosive environment. Some alloys corrode much more easily than others. For instance, alloy 2024 (a common aircraft alloy) uses copper mixed in (alloyed) with the aluminum to make it stronger. But....the copper atoms form a 'galvanic cell' with the aluminum, and all it needs is some water.... dew and a little dust to give it some electrical conductivity works just fine..... and the corrosion is 'off and running'. Pure aluminum is pretty corrosion resistant.... on airplanes the 2024 'skin' is 'alclad'.... coated both sides with a few thou of pure aluminum to reduce corrosion.... which is fine out west in a dry climate. In a more humid environment, it's either paint, or it's Corrosion City. By the way, this corrosion became a problem in some states out west when they switched from regular granular 'calcium chloride' road salt to a sprayed liquid 'magnesium chloride'.... which was SOLD to them as being 'non-corrosive'......NOT! They had aluminum semi-truck trailers failing due to corrosion! link: https://www.peterschemical.com/magnesium-chloride-as-a-road-deicer-a-critical-review/The outfit I worked for (USGS) had some aluminum cablecars that the guys would ride out over streams to collect water samples. We had a car that happened to be stored right next to an interstate highway in Colorado.... the car was fine for decades until the state started using magnesium chloride de-icer on the highway.... spray mist got over on the cablecar with each snowstorm, and some of the parts, those which were made of 2024-T4, just corroded like mad. The rest of the car was made of 6061-T6 and 3003, and did not corrode. I changed the alloy on the problem parts to 6061-T6 and the problem went away. I looked up Ormond beach and I see it is on the Atlantic coast of Florida, somewhat north of Cape Canaveral. My guess is that salt is getting onto your forks, and along with high humidity, is corroding the heck out of them. Are you close to the water? Are you having different weather? Are you getting salt spray... maybe riding along the beach? Are you getting more of a wind from the east...I am thinking salt-water droplets evaporating and microscopic salt flecks carried to wherever your bike is. Did your Valk do OK for years, then suddenly start to corrode, or did you have different bikes? The only thing I know to do is to clean the forks down to shiny metal, then COAT them to protect them. I live on the Gulf Coast in Mississippi, about 200 yards from the water, and things corrode like MAD here! My '97 Valk had been sitting on a guy's front porch for about 5 years, maybe a mile inland from the beach. There were areas of SEVERE intergranular corrosion on the forks..... almost as bad as your photos! I removed the forks, then used a coarse 'bastard cut' file to remove the corrosion-- it was pretty deep!. Next was a 'smooth cut' file to remove the 'bastard cut' file marks, then 100-grit sandpaper to remove the 'smooth cut' file marks, then 220 grit to remove the 100-grit marks. I stopped at 220 grit, but one can go as fine as one likes, followed by polishing to whatever finish one wants. To coat the forks and keep the corrosion from forming on the new shiny bare aluminum..... PAINT 'em! I used RustOleum Clear aerosol paint, and it looks OK a year later, but I keep the bike in a shed. (It's still humid as heck, but no direct salt breeze.) I have several bikes, and the Valk is the only one that the forks are corroding like this. My Buells, my old Suzuki dirt bikes, and the old Norton forks that got dunked in salt water in Katrina, the aluminum forks are just fine. My guess is that the Valk forks are made of an alloy with much less resistance to corrosion than the other bikes. I hope this helps!
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Presently running: '97 Valkyrie Tourer, '99 Valkyrie Interstate '08 Buell 1125R, '06 Buell XB12X Ulysses, '06 Buell XB12S Lightning '95 Suzuki GN125, '85 Suzuki GN250, '80 Suzuki TS125, '80 Suzuki TS250 Projects: '04 Buell Firebolt, '00 & '04 Buell Blasts, '74 Suz TM400, '78 Suz TS185
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« Reply #34 on: September 23, 2018, 03:13:58 AM » |
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Hi Jims99! The aluminum 'flaking' is called Intergranular Corrosion. I have seen it on some equipment my agency used to make, I have seen it on old, abandoned airplanes..... and I saw it on the forks of my '97 Valkyrie when I first bought it. This happens when certain aluminum alloys are unprotected in a corrosive environment. Some alloys corrode much more easily than others. For instance, alloy 2024 (a common aircraft alloy) uses copper mixed in (alloyed) with the aluminum to make it stronger. But....the copper atoms form a 'galvanic cell' with the aluminum, and all it needs is some water.... dew and a little dust to give it some electrical conductivity works just fine..... and the corrosion is 'off and running'. Pure aluminum is pretty corrosion resistant.... on airplanes the 2024 'skin' is 'alclad'.... coated both sides with a few thou of pure aluminum to reduce corrosion.... which is fine out west in a dry climate. In a more humid environment, it's either paint, or it's Corrosion City. By the way, this corrosion became a problem in some states out west when they switched from regular granular 'calcium chloride' road salt to a sprayed liquid 'magnesium chloride'.... which was SOLD to them as being 'non-corrosive'......NOT! They had aluminum semi-truck trailers failing due to corrosion! link: https://www.peterschemical.com/magnesium-chloride-as-a-road-deicer-a-critical-review/The outfit I worked for (USGS) had some aluminum cablecars that the guys would ride out over streams to collect water samples. We had a car that happened to be stored right next to an interstate highway in Colorado.... the car was fine for decades until the state started using magnesium chloride de-icer on the highway.... spray mist got over on the cablecar with each snowstorm, and some of the parts, those which were made of 2024-T4, just corroded like mad. The rest of the car was made of 6061-T6 and 3003, and did not corrode. I changed the alloy on the problem parts to 6061-T6 and the problem went away. I looked up Ormond beach and I see it is on the Atlantic coast of Florida, somewhat north of Cape Canaveral. My guess is that salt is getting onto your forks, and along with high humidity, is corroding the heck out of them. Are you close to the water? Are you having different weather? Are you getting salt spray... maybe riding along the beach? Are you getting more of a wind from the east...I am thinking salt-water droplets evaporating and microscopic salt flecks carried to wherever your bike is. Did your Valk do OK for years, then suddenly start to corrode, or did you have different bikes? The only thing I know to do is to clean the forks down to shiny metal, then COAT them to protect them. I live on the Gulf Coast in Mississippi, about 200 yards from the water, and things corrode like MAD here! My '97 Valk had been sitting on a guy's front porch for about 5 years, maybe a mile inland from the beach. There were areas of SEVERE intergranular corrosion on the forks..... almost as bad as your photos! I removed the forks, then used a coarse 'bastard cut' file to remove the corrosion-- it was pretty deep!. Next was a 'smooth cut' file to remove the 'bastard cut' file marks, then 100-grit sandpaper to remove the 'smooth cut' file marks, then 220 grit to remove the 100-grit marks. I stopped at 220 grit, but one can go as fine as one likes, followed by polishing to whatever finish one wants. To coat the forks and keep the corrosion from forming on the new shiny bare aluminum..... PAINT 'em! I used RustOleum Clear aerosol paint, and it looks OK a year later, but I keep the bike in a shed. (It's still humid as heck, but no direct salt breeze.) I have several bikes, and the Valk is the only one that the forks are corroding like this. My Buells, my old Suzuki dirt bikes, and the old Norton forks that got dunked in salt water in Katrina, the aluminum forks are just fine. My guess is that the Valk forks are made of an alloy with much less resistance to corrosion than the other bikes. I hope this helps! Now my brain hurts but thanks for that reply.
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Jims99
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« Reply #35 on: September 23, 2018, 05:10:08 AM » |
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Thanks Jimbob. That does help. I do ride down A1A once in a while, but this has only done it on this bike. I’m going to go through and check all grounds and repolish and try clear coat. If it doesn’t help, may try switching to vtx forks. It just baffles me, after riding different bikes for 42 years (90% in Florida) I have never had this before. Always lived within 4-5 miles from the ocean and no ones bike I know has ever done this. Just chalk it up as a learning experience. And will definitely post if I find something odd with bike.
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The light at the end of the tunnel, is a train. 99 tourer 00 interstate 97 standard 91 wing 78 trail 70
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MnM Valk 97
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« Reply #36 on: October 12, 2018, 10:35:01 PM » |
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JimBob beat me to it. Intergranular corrosion with exfoliation ("leaves" flaking off). I haven't seen that since the helicopters I worked in Hawaii. Trouble is, it's insidious. Once you see it, it's already deeply attacked the grain structure. You can abate it, but not cure it. Plus the oxidized material holds moisture that much more, too, exacerbating the problem. Any chance you travel on a dirt road? Calcium chloride is also used for dust abatement, and to help keep the dirt from washing away. I have to be diligent about washing and waxing my bikes, living only a few miles from the Cape. Between the salt air and winter roads, MA is tough on vehicles. I don't even ride my bike to work any more because the parking lot is about 40 feet from the water. It's fortunate (and sad at the same time) that parts are getting pretty inexpensive on eBay.
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1997 GL1500CT 2015 GL1800C
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pancho
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« Reply #37 on: October 14, 2018, 07:12:47 AM » |
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Hi Jims99! The aluminum 'flaking' is called Intergranular Corrosion. I have seen it on some equipment my agency used to make, I have seen it on old, abandoned airplanes..... and I saw it on the forks of my '97 Valkyrie when I first bought it. This happens when certain aluminum alloys are unprotected in a corrosive environment. Some alloys corrode much more easily than others. For instance, alloy 2024 (a common aircraft alloy) uses copper mixed in (alloyed) with the aluminum to make it stronger. But....the copper atoms form a 'galvanic cell' with the aluminum, and all it needs is some water.... dew and a little dust to give it some electrical conductivity works just fine..... and the corrosion is 'off and running'. Pure aluminum is pretty corrosion resistant.... on airplanes the 2024 'skin' is 'alclad'.... coated both sides with a few thou of pure aluminum to reduce corrosion.... which is fine out west in a dry climate. In a more humid environment, it's either paint, or it's Corrosion City. By the way, this corrosion became a problem in some states out west when they switched from regular granular 'calcium chloride' road salt to a sprayed liquid 'magnesium chloride'.... which was SOLD to them as being 'non-corrosive'......NOT! They had aluminum semi-truck trailers failing due to corrosion! link: https://www.peterschemical.com/magnesium-chloride-as-a-road-deicer-a-critical-review/The outfit I worked for (USGS) had some aluminum cablecars that the guys would ride out over streams to collect water samples. We had a car that happened to be stored right next to an interstate highway in Colorado.... the car was fine for decades until the state started using magnesium chloride de-icer on the highway.... spray mist got over on the cablecar with each snowstorm, and some of the parts, those which were made of 2024-T4, just corroded like mad. The rest of the car was made of 6061-T6 and 3003, and did not corrode. I changed the alloy on the problem parts to 6061-T6 and the problem went away. I looked up Ormond beach and I see it is on the Atlantic coast of Florida, somewhat north of Cape Canaveral. My guess is that salt is getting onto your forks, and along with high humidity, is corroding the heck out of them. Are you close to the water? Are you having different weather? Are you getting salt spray... maybe riding along the beach? Are you getting more of a wind from the east...I am thinking salt-water droplets evaporating and microscopic salt flecks carried to wherever your bike is. Did your Valk do OK for years, then suddenly start to corrode, or did you have different bikes? The only thing I know to do is to clean the forks down to shiny metal, then COAT them to protect them. I live on the Gulf Coast in Mississippi, about 200 yards from the water, and things corrode like MAD here! My '97 Valk had been sitting on a guy's front porch for about 5 years, maybe a mile inland from the beach. There were areas of SEVERE intergranular corrosion on the forks..... almost as bad as your photos! I removed the forks, then used a coarse 'bastard cut' file to remove the corrosion-- it was pretty deep!. Next was a 'smooth cut' file to remove the 'bastard cut' file marks, then 100-grit sandpaper to remove the 'smooth cut' file marks, then 220 grit to remove the 100-grit marks. I stopped at 220 grit, but one can go as fine as one likes, followed by polishing to whatever finish one wants. To coat the forks and keep the corrosion from forming on the new shiny bare aluminum..... PAINT 'em! I used RustOleum Clear aerosol paint, and it looks OK a year later, but I keep the bike in a shed. (It's still humid as heck, but no direct salt breeze.) I have several bikes, and the Valk is the only one that the forks are corroding like this. My Buells, my old Suzuki dirt bikes, and the old Norton forks that got dunked in salt water in Katrina, the aluminum forks are just fine. My guess is that the Valk forks are made of an alloy with much less resistance to corrosion than the other bikes. I hope this helps! Wow,,thanks for the info JimBob,, I will plant that info deep and remember not to use or buy 2024 when making parts.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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Jims99
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« Reply #38 on: October 15, 2018, 05:39:45 AM » |
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JimBob beat me to it. Intergranular corrosion with exfoliation ("leaves" flaking off). I haven't seen that since the helicopters I worked in Hawaii. Trouble is, it's insidious. Once you see it, it's already deeply attacked the grain structure. You can abate it, but not cure it. Plus the oxidized material holds moisture that much more, too, exacerbating the problem. Any chance you travel on a dirt road? Calcium chloride is also used for dust abatement, and to help keep the dirt from washing away. I have to be diligent about washing and waxing my bikes, living only a few miles from the Cape. Between the salt air and winter roads, MA is tough on vehicles. I don't even ride my bike to work any more because the parking lot is about 40 feet from the water. It's fortunate (and sad at the same time) that parts are getting pretty inexpensive on eBay.
I polished my new to me forks to a high shine. Used white diamond for finishing touch. They started flaking less then 1000 miles. I keep them cleaned and waxed. Do you think a chemical I’m using is contributing to this. I don’t see this on any other parts. It seems to be at the edge of where the wind whips around the shield and bracket s. Also Jack mentioned if it could be the triple trees. Maybe a dissimilar metal in them contributing.
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The light at the end of the tunnel, is a train. 99 tourer 00 interstate 97 standard 91 wing 78 trail 70
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9Ball
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« Reply #39 on: June 05, 2019, 02:03:53 AM » |
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Do you have any electrical accessories, such as driving lights, added to the triple trees or forks? I’m also thinking that there is an electrolytic type action going on with your forks. The solution might be as simple as grounding the forks to the frame so that the ground is not going through the steering stem bearings, which may result in poor grounding for the forks.
I know this is an old thread but it would be nice to hear if anything has been done to address the problem.
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« Last Edit: June 05, 2019, 02:05:44 AM by 9Ball »
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000
1999 Standard 2007 Rocket 3 2005 VTX 1300S
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