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Author Topic: Rear caliper removal - Right way and wrong way  (Read 1123 times)
_Sheffjs_
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*****
Posts: 5613


Jerry & Sherry Sheffer

Sarasota FL


« on: November 20, 2018, 07:32:44 AM »

Yes I know  uglystupid2 - but here is the deal if I am to do it the right way I have to lug my heavy heavy clunky awkward lift to where the bike is.  Some have removed the rear caliper with a lift and part wheel removal.  Yes I can take the lift up. it is just a PITA.   Has anyone a way to take the rear caliper off for rebuild with out a lift?    


« Last Edit: November 20, 2018, 10:34:00 AM by _Sheffjs_ » Logged
Grandpot
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Posts: 630


Rolling Thunder South Carolina Chapter 1

Fort Mill, South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: November 20, 2018, 08:00:59 AM »

I did it several years ago without removing the wheel, although my memory is not as clear about it as I would like.  The pins that the caliper slide on need to be removed.  One or maybe both have a jam screw that needs to be removed before the pin can be.  If I remember correctly, one pin is accessed from the back side and the other from the front.

Look at it closely, you'll figure it out.
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crazy2 Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it.crazy2
BINOVC
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Posts: 92

Southaven, MS


« Reply #2 on: November 20, 2018, 01:35:52 PM »

I also removed mine without a lift or removing the wheel.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php?topic=56994.0
See post 10 and beyond.
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_Sheffjs_
Member
*****
Posts: 5613


Jerry & Sherry Sheffer

Sarasota FL


« Reply #3 on: November 20, 2018, 04:02:32 PM »

I also removed mine without a lift or removing the wheel.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php?topic=56994.0
See post 10 and beyond.
. Thanks I am sure I get it now.   
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Paladin528
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Posts: 722


Greater Toronto Area Ontario Canada


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« Reply #4 on: November 26, 2018, 06:13:48 AM »

The Pin that is most aft needs to be pulled with the caliper inplace.  A 12mm open end wrench will do the trick.  turn the pin until the threads are free and you should be able to pull the caliper without removing the wheel or using a lift.  I have done it twice.  You will still need to remove the pads by pulling the cap and the slider pin.
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RWhitehouse
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Posts: 111


« Reply #5 on: November 26, 2018, 10:39:16 AM »

Quick tip for caliper rebuilds, leave the hose connected until last. Pump the brake until the pistons are almost all the way out, and use the pad to keep them roughly even in case one is looser than the other. Go slow, as you get right to the end you can see/feel the pistons pop past the internal pressure seal, but they'll stay in place on the dust seal. If you go nuts pumping they'll pop all the way out and fluid goes everywhere. Once they're loose disconnect the hose and you can wriggle the pistons out by hand, or if they're still stuck some soft-jaw pliers. Or just a rag stuffed in the jaw of channellocks.

I recently rebuilt the front calipers on mine and the pistons were so sticky I couldn't get them to budge even pushing 150psi air into the caliper. Ended up having to reconnect them, re-bleed, and use the hydraulic pressure to shove them out. Would have saved a lot of time to just do that initially.
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