Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
June 24, 2025, 02:20:46 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
MarkT Exhaust
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: Rear wheel installation  (Read 1625 times)
Freebird93
Member
*****
Posts: 4


« on: October 31, 2019, 06:28:37 PM »

I'm putting my rear wheel back on after changing tires. It seems to me that the flange seated in just fine. But the right side where the piece of plastic touches the wheel it looks like there is a gap it should touch. It's all back together and it fit fine. Could it be that it's not all the way on, could someone post a picture of where the plastic meets the wheel of an installed tire.

Thanks in advance.
Logged
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16773


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: October 31, 2019, 06:37:57 PM »


I remember worrying about that gap... you're good to go I'm pretty sure...



-Mike
Logged

Daniel Meyer
Member
*****
Posts: 5492


Author. Adventurer. Electrician.

The State of confusion.


WWW
« Reply #2 on: October 31, 2019, 06:38:25 PM »

Normal!  cooldude
Logged

CUAgain,
Daniel Meyer
Forge
Member
*****
Posts: 227

San Antonio, TX


« Reply #3 on: October 31, 2019, 06:38:34 PM »

Is the thrust washer installed? Is the wheel itself worn from maybe the previous owner not using the thrust washer?
Logged
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14765


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #4 on: October 31, 2019, 07:16:59 PM »

Welcome Freebird. Sounds like this is your first experience doing rear wheel maintenance. The procedure for re assembly is specific and critical. I hope you did your homework and did it right. Lots of help here. Stick around
Logged
RonW
Member
*****
Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #5 on: October 31, 2019, 08:22:41 PM »

It's not visible in the pic, but mine's was tilted or sumpthin and the lower quadrant was frayed from rubbing against the wheel. I was worried about that more than the gap (arrow).

Logged

2000 Valkyrie Tourer
Freebird93
Member
*****
Posts: 4


« Reply #6 on: October 31, 2019, 09:31:05 PM »

It's not visible in the pic, but mine's was tilted or sumpthin and the lower quadrant was frayed from rubbing against the wheel. I was worried about that more than the gap (arrow).



So is this a picture of it installed correctly?

Welcome Freebird. Sounds like this is your first experience doing rear wheel maintenance. The procedure for re assembly is specific and critical. I hope you did your homework and did it right. Lots of help here. Stick around

I did a bunch of looking before I decided to be a "do it yourselfer" followed all the steps in the shop talk article. It just didn't look right when I got it back on! Thank you everyone for the help!
Logged
mello dude
Member
*****
Posts: 949


Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole

Dayton Ohio


« Reply #7 on: October 31, 2019, 09:58:26 PM »

I just went thru quite a few gyrations on the wheel seating correctly and all that. So I know mine is good.
On a quick eyeball check, I would say the gap is 5/32 inch....
Good luck..
« Last Edit: November 01, 2019, 12:12:52 AM by mello dude » Logged

* There's someone in my head, but it's not me.......
* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
* There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius.....
* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
RonW
Member
*****
Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #8 on: October 31, 2019, 10:09:26 PM »



So is this a picture of it installed correctly?



Affirmative. It may seem that the dust shield should go flush to the ridge, but try as you might, the dust shield cannot go any further over the groove.
Logged

2000 Valkyrie Tourer
mello dude
Member
*****
Posts: 949


Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole

Dayton Ohio


« Reply #9 on: November 01, 2019, 12:23:15 AM »

Here's mine.. Ron and I are having a photo contest...  Wink


Logged

* There's someone in my head, but it's not me.......
* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
* There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius.....
* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
..
Member
*****
Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #10 on: November 01, 2019, 07:08:16 AM »

Normal!  cooldude

Daniel would you be kind enough to add your step by step removal/installation procedure here.
Logged
Daniel Meyer
Member
*****
Posts: 5492


Author. Adventurer. Electrician.

The State of confusion.


WWW
« Reply #11 on: November 02, 2019, 04:00:56 PM »

Normal!  cooldude

Daniel would you be kind enough to add your step by step removal/installation procedure here.

Ya know...I don't believe I've actually got an article on that...need to do one with pics! Promise I will next time I pull a rear!
Logged

CUAgain,
Daniel Meyer
..
Member
*****
Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #12 on: November 02, 2019, 07:49:25 PM »

Normal!  cooldude

Daniel would you be kind enough to add your step by step removal/installation procedure here.

Ya know...I don't believe I've actually got an article on that...need to do one with pics! Promise I will next time I pull a rear!

Really. Darn. I was convinced/sure it was you. Dropping, raising the bike.
Logged
Jess from VA
Member
*****
Posts: 30407


No VA


« Reply #13 on: November 02, 2019, 08:08:38 PM »

What about this one?   http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/rear_end_service.pptx
Logged
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16773


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #14 on: November 03, 2019, 03:54:41 AM »

Normal!  cooldude

Daniel would you be kind enough to add your step by step removal/installation procedure here.

Ya know...I don't believe I've actually got an article on that...need to do one with pics! Promise I will next time I pull a rear!

Really. Darn. I was convinced/sure it was you. Dropping, raising the bike.

You wouldn't mistake me for Daniel, but I remove the rear fender section, as he does,
and then do an amount of sinking and raising the bike through the process. I never raise
my bike very high, not even high enough to reach the first lock on my sears jack, so I
stick a board in the scissors part of the jack to lock it. Taking the shocks off is one of
the sinking-raising steps: get the bike to where the rear wheel is touching the ground
but the shock is neither in compression nor extension, and the shocks come off easy.
Then sink the bike way down and pull the axle out.



Replacing the shocks with a big turnbuckle is helpful in several ways. The turnbuckle
will hold the swingarm real high for you when you're struggling to get the
driveshaft back in. And then you can set the level of the swingarm so that
the wheel just rolls back in with everything lined up so you can put the
axle back in. All the rest of the time the turnbuckle holds the swingarm at
where-ever you think "the right place" is since your shocks are off...



-Mike
Logged

Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14765


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #15 on: November 03, 2019, 06:05:28 AM »

I don’t take the fender apart to do the rear wheel. I lift the bike to the second safety and tie it down securely. I like to get under there and have plenty of room to look around and maybe clean stuff.  It’s actually easier for me to put the wheel up into position when there’s plenty of space to get under it got leverage.

I don’t have to do any lifting and lowering. Just leave it up there and my brace works like Mike’s turn buckle to keep the swing arm level with the axle above the exhaust.

To each his own
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: