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MarkT Exhaust
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Author Topic: Gas Smell  (Read 1868 times)
GRCTAMPA
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Posts: 93


Tampa, FL


« on: January 11, 2020, 02:01:22 PM »

99 Interstate with 16,500 miles which acquired this past August. Starting to smell slight odor of gas in the garage with the bike parked there. Suggestions as to where to start troubleshooting?
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Ken aka Oil Burner
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Posts: 1127


Mendon, MA


WWW
« Reply #1 on: January 11, 2020, 02:07:46 PM »

If a visual inspection doesn't show anything, it's possibly the fuel cap. Others have noted this over the years. Here's a link to a "fix" that people have done: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,57951.0.html
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GRCTAMPA
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Posts: 93


Tampa, FL


« Reply #2 on: January 11, 2020, 02:56:55 PM »

If a visual inspection doesn't show anything, it's possibly the fuel cap. Others have noted this over the years. Here's a link to a "fix" that people have done: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,57951.0.html


Thank you, definitely going to give this a try.  cooldude
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longrider
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Posts: 557


Vernon, B.C. Canada


« Reply #3 on: January 11, 2020, 07:30:14 PM »

The tank is not sealed.  It has a vent tube so the tank doesn’t pressurize.   If the tank and fuel warm up during the day it will have some gas vapor escape.  Normal
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GRCTAMPA
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Posts: 93


Tampa, FL


« Reply #4 on: January 11, 2020, 07:33:30 PM »

The tank is not sealed.  It has a vent tube so the tank doesn’t pressurize.   If the tank and fuel warm up during the day it will have some gas vapor escape.  Normal

Thanks, I don’t see any leaks so could be normal.
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Calboy
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Posts: 135


« Reply #5 on: January 12, 2020, 09:04:18 AM »

Check the petcock area.. It doesn't take much of a leak to get that gas smell in the garage.
I had the same problem. I chose to buy a brand new petcock rather than just the rebuild kit.
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indybobm
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Posts: 1600

Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #6 on: January 12, 2020, 09:11:32 AM »

I did my gas smell fix a little different. The smell got worse after I installed the tank bib under the bezel.
The rubber gasket is very easy to remove from and put back on the cap. Using gasket material, I cut out a round gasket to  fit between the cap and the rubber gasket.  Solved my problem and have not had any trouble since.
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
TTG53#1717
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Posts: 150

Far West Texas


« Reply #7 on: January 12, 2020, 03:09:48 PM »

Your bike is 2 years younger than mine. My fuel distribution rail o-rings failed 20 months ago.
That happened shortly after I switched to Shell V-power. My EFI o-rings on my 1200 Sportster also got dried out with that same gas.

Both of those events were manifested by a slight fuel odor in the garage with no noticeable traces of leaking until a major flood at startup.

The Valk leak waited until the running engine vacuum opened the petcock and allowed full tank gravity feed to flow out a couple ounces on to the engine before I realized something was very wrong. The EFI pump on the XL sprayed all over my left thigh before too much leaked and I hit the kill switch.

In both cases the factory o-rings were dry and crumbley when removed.

I’m hoping this isn’t your problem but it’s something to be aware of on a 21 year old bike using modern gasoline.
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‘97 Standard Purple/White
‘13 XL Seventy Two
‘54 KHK
VRCC 1717
Challenger
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Posts: 1285


« Reply #8 on: January 12, 2020, 03:42:39 PM »

Your bike is 2 years younger than mine. My fuel distribution rail o-rings failed 20 months ago.}

+1 That is exactly what happened to my 99 I/S. I could see dampness around the rails after getting out of storage. Believe it or not, They quit leaking on their own after being re-hydrated for a period. I no longer drain carb bowls and lines during lay-up.
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rug_burn
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Posts: 320


Brea, CA


« Reply #9 on: January 23, 2020, 10:05:36 AM »

Those tiny fuel rail o-rings hardened and died on mine a few years back, too.   In my case I could see gas very seeping out around them.      Another time the vent line got inadvertantly pulled off while reconnecting the tank lines, or I just forgot to connect it, causing a noticeable fuel smell when parked -  It's under the back end of the tank, right near the seat.
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...insert hip saying here..
pokrovsky
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Posts: 107


« Reply #10 on: January 23, 2020, 07:09:50 PM »

What is the part number for these fuel rail o-rings? I can’t locate them on Partzilla part diagrams
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Avanti
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Posts: 1403


Stoughton, Wisconsin


« Reply #11 on: January 24, 2020, 07:52:56 AM »

Try this.

https://sites.google.com/site/valkparts/

https://redeye.ecrater.com/
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baldo
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Posts: 6960


Youbetcha

Cape Cod, MA


« Reply #12 on: January 24, 2020, 06:17:13 PM »

I had a gas smell that I just couldn't find. It got a little stronger and I found fuel starting to spit from the petcock. I took the petcock apart (Pingel vac) and found the tiniest tear in the diaphragm. Fuel was coming out of the weep indicator groove on the petcock housing. I sent it to Pingel for overhaul. $18 dollars and 2 weeks later it was back on the bike.
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GRCTAMPA
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Posts: 93


Tampa, FL


« Reply #13 on: January 27, 2020, 05:36:03 PM »

I had a gas smell that I just couldn't find. It got a little stronger and I found fuel starting to spit from the petcock. I took the petcock apart (Pingel vac) and found the tiniest tear in the diaphragm. Fuel was coming out of the weep indicator groove on the petcock housing. I sent it to Pingel for overhaul. $18 dollars and 2 weeks later it was back on the bike.

This sounds like a likely solution. I did install an O-ring on the gas cap but the odor persists. Thank you everyone for your input.
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rug_burn
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Posts: 320


Brea, CA


« Reply #14 on: February 04, 2020, 09:53:50 AM »

Did you want the number for those o-rings?    I got mine from an O-ring store online, a lot cheaper, I can give you the sizes if you need them.
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...insert hip saying here..
pokrovsky
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Posts: 107


« Reply #15 on: February 04, 2020, 10:15:13 AM »

Yes please. It looks like Red eye only sells the complete carb o-ring kit for $95 so I’d rather buy just what I need
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9Ball
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Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #16 on: February 04, 2020, 04:15:35 PM »

Yes please. It looks like Red eye only sells the complete carb o-ring kit for $95 so I’d rather buy just what I need

Contact him with a request...he would probably sell you a set even if not advertised.

You need to split the carb bank in order to replace fuel rail o-rings.  Would be a good time to do the complete overhaul, so maybe a complete kit would be a good investment.  It’s a big job but worth it.
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
rug_burn
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Posts: 320


Brea, CA


« Reply #17 on: February 06, 2020, 05:58:24 PM »

I got mine from:
 The O-Ring Store (www.theoringstore.com)
1005 Warner Ave, suite A
Lewiston, ID 83501,  Ph: 208 413-6337.

You want to use Nitrile o-ring material for any gasoline or oil carrying application, although one Viton compound works pretty well, also.

The sizes are:
N1.30 x 008       
N1.78 x 007.94   
(Both are metric sizes,   Nitrile or Buna-N 70 durometer)

Not sure, but I think the first ones are the vapor rail, the second are the fuel rail.   The first ones cost $0.12 each, the second, $0.20 each, so order a bunch extra for next time, or just to clutter up your part box.   They can ship them in an envelope, costs $6.00 shipping.

Before I retired I was a mechanical engineer and designed a lot of stuff with o-rings for fuels and various fluids used in aerospace and defense applications, and these worked perfect on my Valk.
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...insert hip saying here..
pokrovsky
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Posts: 107


« Reply #18 on: February 07, 2020, 08:15:54 AM »

Thank you very much! Greatly appreciate the help and thorough explanation!
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Randy52
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Posts: 27

SW Wisconsin


« Reply #19 on: March 05, 2020, 08:41:09 PM »

Also suffered from gas smell. PO already had "O" ring under cap, vent hose not pinched, "T" is there and routed properly to it's bracket that's held in place by the kick stand spring bolt. This bracket points down and forward at approx. 45 degree angles. It's not bent, other valks the same. Seems like ram air would force air up into the tank possibly coming out key slot in filler cap???  I removed hose from bracket and zipped tied to drool tube, tossed the "O" ring, lightly greased the filler cap gasket. No more gas smell, been 2 years now. Don't know witch one fixed it as I did all at same time. 
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