98 Valkyrie turn signals don’t work

[bropaska]

Recently purchased a 98 Valkyrie . Everything seems good except for the turn signalS. Fronts light up but when I turn on left it goes out and right stays on steady. When I turn on right it goes out and left stays on steady. No lights in the back at all. So far the only thing I tried is cleaning switch with contact cleaner. Any help would be appreciated.

[ridingron]

I'm not familiar enough to offer specific advice. But ...

Are you sure the lamps are good? Are they turn signals and driving lights?

Have you checked and/or cleaned the related connectors?

Have you located and swapped out turn signal relay? At $40 from Honda, maybe there is an auto part that'll work.

Do you know how to use and have a meter?

[bropaska]

I have never seen signals act like this before but I haven’t checked the bulbs...I’ll do that next thanks!

[bentwrench]

This could be a fuse/flasher/switch problem. On our valks the frt. running lites go out when the t/sig is  turned on same side. You probably have no t/signals at all. Start by checking the fuses under the right side cover and the flasher under the left one.

[Jersey]

Recently purchased a 98 Valkyrie . Everything seems good except for the turn signalS. Fronts light up but when I turn on left it goes out and right stays on steady. When I turn on right it goes out and left stays on steady. No lights in the back at all. So far the only thing I tried is cleaning switch with contact cleaner. Any help would be appreciated.

I've come to know the Turn Signal circuits rather well having designed the SignalBoss.  Here are a few things you might want to check:
BTW, is it an IS or S/T??

1. Verify bulbs are working. Dual filament in front, Single filament in back.
2. Verify the Turn Switch Relay is working.  Should feel/hear a click/click/click when turn switch is pressed.  Can do a bench test if you want to pull it. Will need a working bulb and 12v power supply.
3. Verify if the PO added anything to the turn signal circuitry.  You never know...
4. TEST: pull the 6pin plug (Under the seat) to the tail light assembly. Try the Turn Signals again.  This will speed up the turn flicker rate due to the change in resistance.  BUT, it will remove a portion of the circuitry as part of the troubleshooting process.
5. Examine turn switch internal components. Check for oxidation, excessive wearing of the copper contacts, broken wires, etc.
6. Examine all connectors associated with the Turn Signal circuitry.  This is the PIA step.  Look for pin corrosion, oxidation. Pin deformity that might cause inconsistent connections.

That's a good starter list, especially Step 2 & 3.  

Let me know what you find and can proceed from there.

Jersey

[sandy]

You say you cleaned the switch. Did you take the left bar housing apart? Remove the small Phillips screw and lift it out (careful). Spray down into the slider part. The old factory lube will be hard; get it all. Apply a very light dielectric grease to the moving parts. Reassemble and try again.

[bropaska]

Awesome thank you all so much - I just got it so the only thing I tried so far was to spray cleaner thru the switch and let it drip out the drip hole while turning in on and off. The switch slides and cancels the way it should. Thanks for all the starter points. I’ll get into it a little more tomorrow unless I end up buying the 85 vmax I’ve been trying to work a deal on!

[Valker]

Odd electrical problems seem to almost always be a bad ground.

[RonW]

It's not that odd a problem if all 4 signals don't flash (as I read it). Sounds like the flasher relay stopped working. The oem flasher relay is a mechanical flasher and you should hear it clicking if it's still good. A gray wire connects the flasher to the turn signal switch at the thumb lever on the left handlebar. The gray wire might be severed at some point.

Btw, the front *running lights* have it's own switch. The running light switch is ganged to the turn signal switch so they operate together like a double pole switch when you flick the thumb lever left or right. Other than that they're separate circuits.

[Hook#3287]

Odd electrical problems seem to almost always be a bad ground.

That was my thought also.

[bropaska]

That makes sense to me as I hear nothing clicking at all. I think I need a new flasher for sure.

[bropaska]

Anyone have a part number for a new flasher?

[Ken aka Oil Burner]

This is the stock one: https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/38301-KK9-952?ref=b22e50538cbd90071801e7564c7d617e6cde1e6f

But, if you plan on using LED signal bulbs at some point, the stock flasher will make the signals flash very quickly due to the loss of electrical load that the LED bulbs provide.

See this thread for options on electronic flashers that work with LED bulbs: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,109863.0.html

If you decide you want a stock one, I think I still have my stocker in a box somewhere in the garage.

[Ken aka Oil Burner]

But definitely pull the lenses and check what bulbs are installed, front and rear. It should be dual-filament bulbs up front and single filament bulbs in the rear signals. People have been known to shove a dual contact bulb in a single contact socket, and vice versa.

[RonW]

Try get a flasher with the same mini blade terminals as the stock flasher. Most flashers use ¼-inch blade connectors instead of mini blades. Saves a step. Makes it plug n' play. Otherwise, you'd have to solder ¼-inch blade terminals to the stock wires.

[Jersey]

Allow me to pitch the SignalBoss.  It's my product that substitutes for the OEM flasher and provides additional benefits, such as, Auto Cancelling Turn Signals, Emergency and Escort 4-way flashing (with key in/out), and supports LED/incandescent bulbs without the need for resistors, etc.

jerseymcproducts.com

[bropaska]

Thanks for all the help everyone. I pulled the old flasher out tapped it on the ground a few times then plugged it back in and everything works now as it should! I’m not sure how long it will last but it’s good for now. Thanks again!

[Jersey]

Thanks for all the help everyone. I pulled the old flasher out tapped it on the ground a few times then plugged it back in and everything works now as it should! I’m not sure how long it will last but it’s good for now. Thanks again!

Great to hear!