1998 1500C project

[rafalc]

Looking fantastic! Can't wait to see the finished (if there ever really is a finished) product.

Good point .... these things are never finished...., just finished for the time being.

[..]

Howabout a photo that isn't a closeup. 

[rafalc]

Howabout a photo that isn't a closeup. 

Not until its "finished" hahahaha

[gordonv]

The digi counts the pulse of vacuum, the one off the coil would be more reliable and accurate.

I always assumed the DigiSynch was more precise because of the analog meter.

I really don't know. I'm going by the fact it should be easier to count electrical pulses easier than air pulses. But if someone is an Engineer and knows better, please chime in.

[..]

Howabout a photo that isn't a closeup. 

Not until its "finished" hahahaha

  

[pancho]

The digi counts the pulse of vacuum, the one off the coil would be more reliable and accurate.

I always assumed the DigiSynch was more precise because of the analog meter.

I really don't know. I'm going by the fact it should be easier to count electrical pulses easier than air pulses. But if someone is an Engineer and knows better, please chime in.

As far as the input to the devices, the pulses from the ignition system are dead on accurate, but the analog display on the bike leaves some room for error.  The averaging of the intake pulses in the Digi Sync leaves some room for error, but displays this result with dead on accuracy.     Make your guess.

 I would go with a digital display tachometer connected to the ignition pulses for the most spot on accuracy of engine RPM. 

[rafalc]

The digi counts the pulse of vacuum, the one off the coil would be more reliable and accurate.

I always assumed the DigiSynch was more precise because of the analog meter.

I really don't know. I'm going by the fact it should be easier to count electrical pulses easier than air pulses. But if someone is an Engineer and knows better, please chime in.

As far as the input to the devices, the pulses from the ignition system are dead on accurate, but the analog display on the bike leaves some room for error.  The averaging of the intake pulses in the Digi Sync leaves some room for error, but displays this result with dead on accuracy.     Make your guess.

 I would go with a digital display tachometer connected to the ignition pulses for the most spot on accuracy of engine RPM. 

Thanks. In my example, it is a digital tach connected to the stock tach signal that shows about 200rpm less than the digisync. The original analog tach was also about 200 off from the DigiSync.

[mello dude]

@rafalc - Hey.. have you figured out what you are going to do for the passenger seat? I like your earlier photo sketch ideas...

 

[rafalc]

Been a while since the last update.... bike is up and running!

 SS braided black break and clutch lines. I recommend Galfer over Spiegler especially for the rear. Spiegler rear kit only includes a short 8" piece, and you still have to use the pipe and the rear rubber piece (what's the point for braided if you still have a rubber piece?) Galfer gives you the entire long braided length.

On the rear SS line, I had to make the same choice... I went with new OEM pipe and the rubber part to the master cylinder, and then getting the short line at the very rear. Knowing the SS lines are stiff as you know what, I didnt want to fight routing them around the swing arm similar to OEM....


Could you post a pic of the shifter assist bracket install?  thx

And have you decided on what to do with the passenger seat? - That's an item on my fix list too. Really havent started it yet, other than lookin at websites...  

btw - its Brakes.... not Breaks.... I'm only anal because and worked in automotive brake engineering for 6 years...  

The Galfer rear brake line is plenty long. I actually had to loop it inside the battery compartment.





Here is the shifter bracket:





As for the passenger seat....still trying to figure it out. I think for now I may just stick with the stock seat and instead of bolts/screws, use quick disconnect hardware to make the install & removal easier. Put a fender bib underneath to make it look better when the seat is off.

I was looking into the aftermarket seats that have suction cups but they look very thin, I still want to keep the passenger comfortable. I was also thinking of maybe cutting the stock seat to make it more narrow or use the base and install a lower profile high density foam but that would be a future project.

[mello dude]

Rafalc, thanks for the shifter pic......
On my passenger seat, I figure to cut the seat pan slimmer or maybe build one
 out of fiberglass. I'm not a bib fan, so I am trying to follow the lower, slimmer, trimmer mode like your pics.
But the whole seat thing is a next year project, gotta get mine running first.

[SCain]

I could have sold you a black powder coated shifter buddy that would have fit right in with the rest of your bike. You wouldn't have seen it.

[Farside]

  Really impressed with your project. She is beautiful bike. 

[Flrider]

Is it done yet ?

Don't keep us in suspense 

[rafalc]

Is it done yet ?

Don't keep us in suspense 

Sorry, no major updates, had to use the time on a couple of other projects. While the weather was nice I threw some temporary lights on and rode a much as I could in its current state. Rides great, turns heads, most people have no idea what it is. I got to say though....my hips do not agree with the riding position, wish I could move my feet lower and more forward. I think crash bar pegs are a definite future upgrade.

Still a load of fabrication that needs to be done. Here is a sneak peak of the rear fender mod...

I'll let you guys guess where I'm going with this.








Also, decided on these small LED running/turn signals (for now at least). Their thread matches the headlight assembly threads so they serve a double purpose....lights and headlight cover fasteners. Since these are LEDs I had the 4-way blinker problem, solved it with 2 diodes at the blinker notification light.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Is it done yet ?

Don't keep us in suspense 

Sorry, no major updates, had to use the time on a couple of other projects. While the weather was nice I threw some temporary lights on and rode a much as I could in its current state. Rides great, turns heads, most people have no idea what it is. I got to say though....my hips do not agree with the riding position, wish I could move my feet lower and more forward. I think crash bar pegs are a definite future upgrade.

Still a load of fabrication that needs to be done. Here is a sneak peak of the rear fender mod...

I'll let you guys guess where I'm going with this.

Man, I have no idea. Frenched in exhaust ports ?  (you are a braver man than I) 

[rafalc]

Is it done yet ?

Don't keep us in suspense 

Sorry, no major updates, had to use the time on a couple of other projects. While the weather was nice I threw some temporary lights on and rode a much as I could in its current state. Rides great, turns heads, most people have no idea what it is. I got to say though....my hips do not agree with the riding position, wish I could move my feet lower and more forward. I think crash bar pegs are a definite future upgrade.

Still a load of fabrication that needs to be done. Here is a sneak peak of the rear fender mod...

I'll let you guys guess where I'm going with this.

Man, I have no idea. Frenched in exhaust ports ?  (you are a braver man than I) 

That's a pretty sick idea but no.... maybe on a future build. Ill post some new stuff once I make more progress

[rafalc]

I've been back at it over these past 2 months, finishing some things up. I think by next weekend it will be finished, I'll take some more pictures and maybe a video and do a walk around.


Here is the finished fender with all-in one LED tail/brake/turn lights. Took a lot of work but I'm happy with the result. I have not seen a setup like this on any other bike:












Decided to go with these dual purpose driving lights / turn signals. Since these are bright enough for the daytime and use up much less current than the headlight, I added a switch to be able to keep the headlight OFF with ignition ON.
















Since the gauge I got eliminated a few of the indicator lights, I had to come up with a way to get them back:













I wanted to come up with a different license plate set up. I really don't like how plates take away from the clean look most bikes are meant to have, and I was definitely not going to ruin the smooth rear fender styling.  I did this on another bike before and liked the way it looks so decided to do the same here.










Another thing I wanted to do is protect the paint. I like short fenders but on this one, protecting from debris is the priority. Extension to protect the front of the engine:







And the rear was kicking up way too much dirt onto the swingarm. This eliminates almost all of it:

[larue]

My kinda of thread. Outstanding work, definitely unique and tastefully done. Great job brother

[rafalc]

My kinda of thread. Outstanding work, definitely unique and tastefully done. Great job brother

Thanks for the feedback!


Some final pictures and video below......









































Start / walk-around video: https://youtu.be/gKtyXEx0WsQ



 


.

[Chrisj CMA]

Very nice job there!

[RustyValkry]

Great job on that bike. 

[Ron in Buffalo]

 

[rafalc]

Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback.

[BigSherm]

Jeez, that is nice!!!

[Ken aka Oil Burner]

Well done       Very tasteful, yet somewhat sinister looking.

[..]

Nice.

Headlight not on in video?

[rafalc]

Nice.

Headlight not on in video?

Nope. Since I added the bright driving lights/turn signals, I added a separate switch to control the headlight. No reason for it to be ON all the time if the other lights are bright enough.

[Chrisj CMA]

There is one little reason to keep the headlight on all the time. It’s kind of a law. You may think those little running lights are bright enough. I doubt the cop will see it as the headlight being on. Just sayin

[Ken aka Oil Burner]

There is one little reason to keep the headlight on all the time. It’s kind of a law. You may think those little running lights are bright enough. I doubt the cop will see it as the headlight being on. Just sayin

I don't know if that's true in all states. I know that some vintage bikes don't have headlights that are on all the time, so I looked up Massachusetts RMV inspections for motorcycles. This is the part about headlights and tail lights. I didn't see anywhere where it said the headlight has to be on at all times. It also says that tail lights need to be on whenever the headlight is on.

From MA 540 CMR 4:

(11) Lighting Devices and Reflectors.
(a) In General. All lighting devices and reflectors required by applicable Federal Motor
Vehicle Safety Standards when the particular motorcycle was originally manufactured and
such devices required by Massachusetts General Law or Rules and Regulations applicable
to the particular motorcycle inspected shall be securely attached to the vehicle and capable
of performing their design functions. Lenses must be intact, clean, unobstructed and free
from cracks. All lenses on stop lamps, tail lamps, turn signal lamps and reflectors must be
approved by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) and as evidence of such approval
indicate the symbol "SAE" on the lens. All replacement lighting devices and reflectors shall
meet applicable Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard at the time they were installed. No
additional lamp, reflective device or other motor vehicle equipment shall be installed that
impairs the effectiveness of lighting equipment required under 540 CMR 4.00. Two or more
lamps, reflectors or items of associated equipment may be combined if the requirements for
each lamp, reflector or item of associated equipment are met.
(b) Headlamps. Each motorcycle shall be equipped with at least one and not more than two
white headlamps whose beam shall be checked in accordance with the specifications
provided by the Registrar. The motorcycle headlamp shall be mounted on the front of the
motorcycle on the vertical centerline, except that if two headlamps are used, they shall be
symmetrically distant from the vertical centerline and equal in height. The height of the
headlamps measured from the road surface to the center of the lamp shall be not less than 22
inches nor more than 54 inches. Headlamps on motorcycles manufactured in 1986 or later
shall throw sufficient light ahead to make clearly visible all vehicles, persons or substantial
objects upon the roadway within a distance of 350 feet on a straight highway of uniform
grade under normal atmospheric conditions. Headlamps on motorcycles manufactured
before 1986 shall throw sufficient light ahead to make clearly visible all vehicles, persons
or substantial objects upon the roadway within a distance of 115 feet under the same
conditions.
(c) Tail Lamps and Stop Lamps. Each motorcycle shall be equipped with at least one red
tail light and at least one red stop lamp. The motorcycle tail lamp and stop lamp shall be
mounted on the rear of the motorcycle on the vertical centerline, except that if two are used,
they shall be symmetrically distant from the vertical centerline and of equal height. The
height of the tail lamps and stop lamps measured from the road surface to the center of the
lamp shall be not less than 15 inches nor more than 72 inches. Stop lamps shall be activated
with the application of front or rear brakes. Tail lamps shall be activated when the
headlamps are activated. Tail lamps and stop lamps shall be visible under normal night time
conditions at a distance of 500 feet and stop lamps shall be visible in normal sunlight at a
distance of 200 feet.

[Jess from VA]

I don't think all states require daylight MC headlight be on.

I know some do.

Of course, state safety inspections or not, lights must work, and must be on at night, but I don't believe daylight-headlights-on is nationwide for motorcycles.

This is not to say it isn't a pretty good idea. 

If you have charging problems, you pull the headlight fuse and run for home (in daylight).  The sun went down on me once, and I tailgated the wife home on her bike. 

[rafalc]

Not sure about other states but have never had any issues with the bike you see below and no headlight ON, I even have a cover over it. The old CB750s I think pre-1976 did not have auto-headlight ON when ignition is ON and from what I read, if it was not designed to be ON stock, it will not be required to be ON during the day. Of course this is just hearsay but I haven't had any problems with the law yet.

[Led]

Wisconsin requires the headlight.....on at all times.  The part of the drill on the old bikes,   turn petcock on, start bike, make sure headlight switch is in the ON position.   I also always run the "bright" during the daytime hours......

[rafalc]

One more mod to fix the extra lean, 3/4" aluminum. No more carrying spacers/pads

[Jess from VA]

Just beware with that kickstand spacer where you park the bike.

IF you get a full rear flat tire after parking, that is enough for the bike to go over right... and hit anything right of the bike. 

[rafalc]

Just beware with that kickstand spacer where you park the bike.

IF you get a full rear flat tire after parking, that is enough for the bike to go over right... and hit anything right of the bike. 

Thanks man. I actually tested that out before deciding on the 3/4". I deflated tire by tire and saw how much of a lift I can safely give the kick stand. I could have safely gone up to an inch.

[Jess from VA]

Just beware with that kickstand spacer where you park the bike.

IF you get a full rear flat tire after parking, that is enough for the bike to go over right... and hit anything right of the bike. 

Thanks man. I actually tested that out before deciding on the 3/4". I deflated tire by tire and saw how much of a lift I can safely give the kick stand. I could have safely gone up to an inch.

OK.  My two bikes in a 10 X 12 shed can't go over no matter what happens.

[pancho]

Hey rafalc, wondering what you used to cut the nice straight lines in the sheet metal of the rear fender?


Nice work all around.

[rafalc]

Hey rafalc, wondering what you used to cut the nice straight lines in the sheet metal of the rear fender?


Nice work all around.

Thanks. I just used a cutoff wheel and went as slow and as careful as I could. Then went over with a sanding disk to finish the cuts off.

[rafalc]

By the way guys.... I took off a lot of the stock parts and do not plan on using them. If throughout this thread and from looking at the before pictures of the bike you see something you like, let me know, make me an offer.

I'll probably make list and post it in the Classifieds section soon.

[pancho]

Hey rafalc, wondering what you used to cut the nice straight lines in the sheet metal of the rear fender?


Nice work all around.

Thanks. I just used a cutoff wheel and went as slow and as careful as I could. Then went over with a sanding disk to finish the cuts off.

Wow,, you certainly can get into and stay in "the zone".. good work.  Did you use a three inch wheel on an angle grinder, or something smaller on a dremel type tool? I need to do some fine work and was thinking a nibbler shear would be too much of a tool for the job.