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Author Topic: Looking for some clarification on Pilot jets vs Pilot screws.  (Read 1332 times)
yrunvs
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Posts: 205


Prior Lake, Minnesota


« on: June 06, 2020, 07:13:27 PM »

The Pilot Jets are on the bottom side of the carb and need the D shaped tool and should be 2 1/4 turns out correct? And the Pilot Screws are the 5 screws under the choke covers that are used to synch the carbs but they don't have a specific number of turns out?....  right?
« Last Edit: June 06, 2020, 07:16:49 PM by yrunvs » Logged

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WintrSol
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Posts: 1340


Florissant, MO


« Reply #1 on: June 06, 2020, 07:43:20 PM »

The Pilot Jets are on the bottom side of the carb and need the D shaped tool and should be 2 1/4 turns out correct? And the Pilot Screws are the 5 screws under the choke covers that are used to synch the carbs but they don't have a specific number of turns out?....  right?
The pilot adjustment screws are the D-shaped ones that are used to adjust the volume of the pilot mixture that is added to the air flow after the throttle plates. The pilot jets are inside the carb bodies, and regulate the amount of fuel and air that are mixed together, and feed the pilot screws, and also transition ports that are just upstream of the throttle plates, and keep the mixture from going lean as the throttles are opened, until the needle jets take over.

The 5 screws under the choke covers set the throttle opening at idle for the 5 carbs, so that they match the reference carb throttle at idle.
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
yrunvs
Member
*****
Posts: 205


Prior Lake, Minnesota


« Reply #2 on: June 07, 2020, 05:10:19 AM »

So as I understand it reading your post. I'm trying to establish in my mind the correct terminolgy of the jetting and their adjustabilty and settings.

1. Main Jet- inside the carb body controls higher RPM only adjustable by switching them out.
2. Slow Jet also called Pilot Jet- inside the carb body and controls lower RPM only adjustable by switching them out.
3. Pilot Screws- outside carb body and need the D shaped tool to adjust and these normally are set 2 1/4 turns out??? [/u]
4. Screws under choke covers- are used to synch the carbs based off the #3 carb setting. These have
    no base setting and should only be adjusted while using a carb synching tool??


« Last Edit: June 07, 2020, 05:21:51 AM by yrunvs » Logged

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wirral_biker
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Posts: 44


Wirral, ENGLAND


« Reply #3 on: June 07, 2020, 06:07:39 AM »

Spot on  cooldude
Unless a 1996 model which is 1 3/4 turns out ! Cheesy
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-mike-
Member
*****
Posts: 216


Germany


« Reply #4 on: June 07, 2020, 07:40:16 AM »

1996 model?
I thought '97 were the first ones?

What's the visual difference? Motor block w/o PAIR system?
else?

I'm asking because i have a '97 with no cast PAIR openings.

-mike-
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WintrSol
Member
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Posts: 1340


Florissant, MO


« Reply #5 on: June 07, 2020, 08:00:33 AM »

1996 model?
I thought '97 were the first ones?

What's the visual difference? Motor block w/o PAIR system?
else?

I'm asking because i have a '97 with no cast PAIR openings.

-mike-
The PAIR system was to meet emission requirements in the USA market. Did any of the non-USA models have PAIR systems?
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
-mike-
Member
*****
Posts: 216


Germany


« Reply #6 on: June 07, 2020, 08:50:18 AM »

All European Standards had the PAIR built in but the 97s.
No Tourer and no IS were officially made for is, though.
All of them that run over here are imported US models.
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Ricky-D
Member
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #7 on: June 07, 2020, 08:51:04 AM »

So as I understand it reading your post. I'm trying to establish in my mind the correct terminolgy of the jetting and their adjustabilty and settings.

1. Main Jet- inside the carb body controls higher RPM only adjustable by switching them out.
2. Slow Jet also called Pilot Jet- inside the carb body and controls lower RPM only adjustable by switching them out.
3. Pilot Screws- outside carb body and need the D shaped tool to adjust and these normally are set 2 1/4 turns out??? [/u]
4. Screws under choke covers- are used to synch the carbs based off the #3 carb setting. These have
    no base setting and should only be adjusted while using a carb synching tool??
The only issue that I would take exception to, is the generalization suggested in items #1 and #2.

The jets do not control rpms. Absolutely do not control rpms.

The jets only limit the maximum amount of fuel that can flow thru the jet.

That is the lone function of the jet.

Only talking about the slow jet and the main jet here.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
yrunvs
Member
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Posts: 205


Prior Lake, Minnesota


« Reply #8 on: June 07, 2020, 10:26:47 AM »

So... I pulled the carbs and did the basic clean I did not break them apart and I reused the cleaned jets. I did replace as much as I could as far as O rings and gaskets and springs. I was pretty meticulous with the boots from the airbox to the carbs and from the carbs to the pistons. I did a desmog and triple checked everything. I replaced all nipple plugs.

When I was installing an intake one of the O rings popped off and I accidently sliced it I reinstalled it and used some red gasket goop around that area. Could this be the cause of the problem explained below?

The bike starts fine and runs strong but there is a slight hunting on idle and slight snap and pop, no big pops. It snaps and pops/burbles on low RPM decel.

I have not synched the carbs yet would that help?
Would a specific number of turns out of the pilot screws help?

One more thing when I changed the vac plug on the back side of #6 it was wet with gas???
I rebuilt and tested the petcock when I did the carbs.
   
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