Curious re. cruise control.

[John Schmidt]

Anyone ever develop a method of testing it in the shop as opposed to running down the road. For some reason mine quit working after reinstalling the rebuilt carbs and I'd like to be able to see if it even tries to engage. I don't think I have too much slack in the bead chain, it's about how it was prior to r&r the carbs. Not really looking forward to pulling the tank and airbox again to redress everything but will if I have no other option.

I do have a centerstand so wondering if it might work when up on that and maybe block the front wheel to prevent any forward movement. Was trying to recall if there's a different type unit we can use that doesn't have that long cable on it. I'd be willing to spring for it and remove this one if so.

[gordonv]

Where is your magnet mounted on, front or rear rim?

I haven't mounted my CC yet, but the speed sensor gets mounted to spinning surface.

[John Schmidt]

Gordon, it doesn't use a magnet, it's the Audiovox version using vaccum to activate and a sensor wire attached to a coil for rpm sensing. I'll most likely have to remove the tank and airbox AGAIN (#@*&$@#) so as to maybe reposition the cable and bead chain, possibly replace the vacuum hose from the reservoir to the servo. Has always worked great, just now after r&r the carbs....it doesn't. 

[gordonv]

As I mentioned, I haven't finished mounting my CC yet, and I thought this was the Audiovox 100 I bought from you a couple of years ago. I was fairly sure you needed an rpm sensor/magnet mounted on the rim. I need to research again to clarify.

If you don't need it, even better.

I've fairly sure I'm not going to be able to ride the bike this year, so I'll spend the warm months trying to complete those projects I started 2 years ago (fingers crossed).

[txtriathlete]

Anyone ever develop a method of testing it in the shop as opposed to running down the road. For some reason mine quit working after reinstalling the rebuilt carbs and I'd like to be able to see if it even tries to engage. I don't think I have too much slack in the bead chain, it's about how it was prior to r&r the carbs. Not really looking forward to pulling the tank and airbox again to redress everything but will if I have no other option.

I do have a centerstand so wondering if it might work when up on that and maybe block the front wheel to prevent any forward movement. Was trying to recall if there's a different type unit we can use that doesn't have that long cable on it. I'd be willing to spring for it and remove this one if so.

When I had trouble with mine it was the power cable between the box and the battery. Did you do any electrical or other work under the seat r near where you have your controller mounted? On mine the handlebar controls light up, that was my first clue that it was electrical and not mechanical.

[MarkT]

Clearly you need to isolate the nature of the failure.  I chose the Rostra electronic cruise because I know the vacuum system is just a matter of time before there's a problem with a diaphram or the like.  I had one failure that was caused by one of the relays failing.  Otherwise it's been reliable.

[John Schmidt]

Mark, what model did you get and where did you mount the servo? I have mine in the back of the battery box currently and have had the cable dressed out the left side. It then is curved around the overflow tank and eventually down and in front of #3. I have a small clamp attached to the hose clamp there to hold the cable housing in place, at that point it curves inward to a stationary point where the end is fastened. Beyond that is the beaded chain attached to the left side of the actuator arm for the carbs. It has worked for 10-12 years now and I'm thinking I did something to the installation when I pulled/replaced the carbs. Hoping I can get it working before traveling this summer.

[Dusty]

My CCS 100 stopped working John . The lights still worked but would not engage. I used this link to fix the the solenoids.  One was sticking. Works as new. Hope this helps. Sorry  the pictures are not there anymore. Solenoids are in the cable cannister

http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19536


Dusty

[MarkT]

Mark, what model did you get and where did you mount the servo? I have mine in the back of the battery box currently and have had the cable dressed out the left side. It then is curved around the overflow tank and eventually down and in front of #3. I have a small clamp attached to the hose clamp there to hold the cable housing in place, at that point it curves inward to a stationary point where the end is fastened. Beyond that is the beaded chain attached to the left side of the actuator arm for the carbs. It has worked for 10-12 years now and I'm thinking I did something to the installation when I pulled/replaced the carbs. Hoping I can get it working before traveling this summer.

John,

I guess it was the Rostra 250.  Put the servo/control box behind the battery which I moved fully forward and shimmed it there with a small block of wood at the bottom of the battery box.  I cut out the dividers in the box so I could move things where I needed them.  Rerouted the heavy electrical cables at the starter so I could move the battery more forward.  The throttle pull cable goes out the right side and curves forward inside the plastic cover.  In this pic, it's routed outward past the PC-8 fuse panel.




It goes past the starter and makes a big 270° loop to connect to the throttle linkage between #4 & #6 runners.  I made a bracket to hold the end of the cable housing in the right place.  The bead chain and the bracket I made:




BobB's write-up of the Rostra 250 install, with my notes and pics appended:

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,86066.0.html