I'm going in to lube the splines and drive shaft and need verification.

[yrunvs]

New to me 2000 Valk with 22,000 miles, I've been renewing a lot of stuff and now I think I should do the drive line.

Splines.....replace the 3 o rings and lube all with this??
 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045L75M6?tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1

Drive shaft.... Okay to lube with this??
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GAN3I0?tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1
and clean out splash holes.

What other parts will I need to order?

 

[hubcapsc]

Honda wants you to use "moly paste" on the final drive splines. There's
people on here use smooey it up with that blue waterproof bel-ray grease
in your first link and have had great luck. I've have used the bel-ray
grease the last few times. Moly grease like in your second link is listed
for the drive shaft.

The manual, if you don't have one, is online at: http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html
all of Honda's recommendations are in there.

There's a video of how Jeff from Florida does it (he has good luck too) in
shop talk...

-Mike

[sandy]

First class choice for both.  Have fun.

[yrunvs]

Thanks Hub and sandy...do I need any replacement parts other then the 3 o rings?

[hubcapsc]

do I need any replacement parts other then the 3 o rings?

We hope not  ...

-Mike "the 3 o-rings is all you normally need"

[yrunvs]

Thanks. Now I need to build that wooden adapter for my lift I saw in shoptalk so I can get the back wheel off.

[Disco]

Don't forget the thrust washer!

[gordonv]

If you haven't heard of it yet, research the rear bearing mod. Its of a replacement of the single roller bearing, to a 2nd double roller bearing.

I don't say you should do it or not, but just to be aware of it.

It's what I always recommend to new owners, along with know what a hydro lock is. This and the rear end service, are the 2 items that can cost you the most, if you have a failure in those areas.

[yrunvs]

Is this the correct bearing?
https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/5204-2rs-5204-zz-radial-ball-bearing-20x47x20-6/

And I would only need 1 for the left side? as the right side already has the double bearing right?


Is the thrust washer imperative? shipping is more then the washer!

[hubcapsc]

Is the thrust washer imperative? shipping is more then the washer!

My guess is that Disco was warning you not to forget to put it back in there,
not that you need a new one. Leaving it out would really screw you over, but
you'd probably have to ride like DDT to ever wear one out. I got a new one
back when I first got my bike, it appeared to differ from the old one only in
that it was clean. 75,000 miles later, it doesn't look any different than it
ever did...

-Mike "not a double bearing mod fan..."

[RonW]

New seal for the pinion cup? There was something about screwing things up if the seal ain't installed securely, and if memory serves, the things that cause a new seal or reinstalled seal to work itself out.

[..]

Replace the three O rings once a new tire has been fitted. Those guys can smoosh them up. I don't know how but they can.

[gordonv]

Is this the correct bearing?
https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/5204-2rs-5204-zz-radial-ball-bearing-20x47x20-6/

And I would only need 1 for the left side? as the right side already has the double bearing right?


Is the thrust washer imperative? shipping is more then the washer!

I can't recommend. Other than read the write up in Shoptalk, Rear Bearing: .
The 5204 is the correct one. Then there is seals and the like. Also you need to machine the spacer down to fit the wider double row bearing.

If you decide to do this, I would buy two and replace both in your wheel, so you know they are the same. I believe I heard of one double row failure in the 10 years of reading this forum, but I think it was water damage/rusted.

I recommend only knowing about the rear bearing mod. You need to think if it's for you or not. More riders out there with OEM bears on their wheel than that have had failures.

As for the washer, it was already said, you need one, some have been thrown away and not replaced by un-knowledgeable mechanics. Search, and see what can happen.

It's like the OEM petcock. I'm for it, don't need or want a pingle. Others swear at the OEM, and want a pingle as fast as they can. I test my functionality of the OEM petcock at lease once a week, and I ran my bike for 2 years without it turning off. So I recommend knowing what a hydro lock is and sounds like, and what to do (outside) if you encounter one. (my petcock is now functional). No reason to fix something that works and has an unknown life span.

[Jersey]

Thanks. Now I need to build that wooden adapter for my lift I saw in shoptalk so I can get the back wheel off.

There are a few adapters that can be used.  I've had this one on for years and swear by it.  Stays on the bike, isn't in the way. Which is nice if you need service while out for ride... ANY motorcycle lift can be used.  I even sit on it with full confidence.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VALKYRIE-HONDA-LIFT-JACK-ADAPTER-NEW-1-MUST-HAVE-MOTORCYCLE-ITEM-Save-/170943480226

[98valk]

New seal for the pinion cup? There was something about screwing things up if the seal ain't installed securely, and if memory serves, the things that cause a new seal or reinstalled seal to work itself out.

seal is good for about two-three removals and then should be replaced. That has been my experience.
  I tend to remember tech manual wants new every removal.  First thing that wears out is the spring inside the one lip that makes it seal. common for many shaft seals.

[Ramie]

Also take a good look at your wheel dampers.  I followed the rear end service ChrisJ posted in shoptalk and it worked well for me.

[yrunvs]

Thanks for all the feedback. I made Beastriders 2x4 lift adapter and by God it worked. Both wheels off the floor. Now what method do yous guys use to get at the axle and such?

[gordonv]

I think you are referring to the right side exhaust? Just remove the hanger nuts and let it hang loose, don't loosen or remove the header nuts.

ChrisJ how-to in Shoptalk on the rear removal. Also an old youtube too, from Dag

[yrunvs]

I think im going to go the Dag wheel removal route and then the ChrisJ drive shaft removal. This will be my first time and more or less a look see and lubing. Are there any common pitfalls or procedures that have a knack to it. Any hidden circlips or unobvios connectors? After removing the 4 drive shaft bolts will the driveshaft slide out or is there more? Ill check the for the thrust washer and its condition.

[Ricky-D]

Is this the correct bearing?
https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/5204-2rs-5204-zz-radial-ball-bearing-20x47x20-6/

And I would only need 1 for the left side? as the right side already has the double bearing right?

Regarding the double row bearing modification:

It is a foolish modification.

1. If Honda had thought a double row bearing was necessary, they for sure would have had one there.

2. When doing the modification you will quickly realize that you must discard the seal and run without the seal.

3. Keeping the power washer off the bearing area, (actually all bearing areas) is a very smart thing to realize.

***

[RonW]

Are there any common pitfalls or procedures .....

If you're lubing the u-joint and output shaft, it's been recommended to get a new rubber boot for the u-joint because the old boot is stiff and incredibly hard to reinstall. There were a few posts on that snag.

If memory serves, I wasn't able to fit a torque wrench on the nuts for the two inboard bolts of the 4 drive shaft bolts. I suggest felt pen some hash marks (witness marks) on the inboard bolts.

[yrunvs]

Is this the correct bearing?
https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/5204-2rs-5204-zz-radial-ball-bearing-20x47x20-6/

And I would only need 1 for the left side? as the right side already has the double bearing right?

Regarding the double row bearing modification:

It is a foolish modification.

1. If Honda had thought a double row bearing was necessary, they for sure would have had one there.

2. When doing the modification you will quickly realize that you must discard the seal and run without the seal.

3. Keeping the power washer off the bearing area, (actually all bearing areas) is a very smart thing to realize.

***

Yea I more or less ruled this out if anything I would at some point just do a preventive maintenance oem bearing renew.

[yrunvs]

Are there any common pitfalls or procedures .....

If you're lubing the u-joint and output shaft, it's been recommended to get a new rubber boot for the u-joint because the old boot is stiff and incredibly hard to reinstall. There were a few posts on that snag.

If memory serves, I wasn't able to fit a torque wrench on the nuts for the two inboard bolts of the 4 drive shaft bolts. I suggest felt pen some hash marks (witness marks) on the inboard bolts.

How critical is lubing those two areas? I plan on doing all of this early next week and I don't think I can get that boot here in time. Thanks for the heads up on the nuts.

[hubcapsc]

I definitely don't pull my u-joint every time. I think u-joint failures
are generally the articulating part of the joint, its not like they
dry out and wring off at the output shaft. When You lube both
ends of your drive shaft, that's counts as lubing 1/2 your
u-joint  ...

I have a new boot on hand, but last time I had the u-joint out
I easily (luckily?) rolled the old somewhat stiffer boot right
back on.

-Mike

[98valk]

Are there any common pitfalls or procedures .....

If you're lubing the u-joint and output shaft, it's been recommended to get a new rubber boot for the u-joint because the old boot is stiff and incredibly hard to reinstall. There were a few posts on that snag.

If memory serves, I wasn't able to fit a torque wrench on the nuts for the two inboard bolts of the 4 drive shaft bolts. I suggest felt pen some hash marks (witness marks) on the inboard bolts.

How critical is lubing those two areas? I plan on doing all of this early next week and I don't think I can get that boot here in time. Thanks for the heads up on the nuts.

'98 valkryie, 64k miles, zero problems with the boot.

[yrunvs]

Just to be clear....when I remove the 4 nuts and drop the drive shaft the boot will stay put on the front side right?

And I ran across a post by somebody of a parts schematic showing where each type of grease would be applied and I cant find it now can anybody direct me to it?

[98valk]

Just to be clear....when I remove the 4 nuts and drop the drive shaft the boot will stay put on the front side right?

And I ran across a post by somebody of a parts schematic showing where each type of grease would be applied and I cant find it now can anybody direct me to it?

free download of tech manual
http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html

if u use the belray on the final drive splines u will have to redo every 10k miles.  using a verty high quality paste with moly will extend that as longs as the o-rings don't fail to 15k+ miles, some sites mechanics state 40k+miles. Just pulled mine apart at about 15k miles, and was still full of the paste grease mixture I used.

I use TS moly and mix with their sticky moly grease.
https://www.tsmoly.com/anti-seize-lubricants-compounds-moly-paste-with-mossub2sub-p-93.html

drive shaft and u-joint only gets moly grease and not the moly paste.
https://www.tsmoly.com/grease-corrosion-control-grease-with-moly-p-11.html

This is what many, many were using a few yrs ago, when a member was selling it. However the member retired and then nobody talked about it.   It is still highly used and recommended by the BMW riders.
https://www.tsmoly.com/grease-moly-grease-p-251.html

I suggest you read up on moly and its benefits and why it should be used.
good read here to start.   
https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Shaft.html#Grease

[gordonv]

Just to be clear....when I remove the 4 nuts and drop the drive shaft the boot will stay put on the front side right?

The boot attaches to the rear of the engine case and the swing arm. The boot is the pivot point of these 2 items. The u-joint/yoke sits within this point, pressed onto the output shaft of the engine, and receives the axle on the other end. To remove the yoke, you need to remove the axle, disconnect the boot and take it out.

[yrunvs]

Just to be clear....when I remove the 4 nuts and drop the drive shaft the boot will stay put on the front side right?

The boot attaches to the rear of the engine case and the swing arm. The boot is the pivot point of these 2 items. The u-joint/yoke sits within this point, pressed onto the output shaft of the engine, and receives the axle on the other end. To remove the yoke, you need to remove the axle, disconnect the boot and take it out.

so if I just want to remove the driveshaft and not the yoke the drive shaft simply pulls out of the boot and the boot and yoke are left behind attached to the engine case...is that right?

[gordonv]

Yes.

When putting the axle back in, you want the swing arm level. It will make it easier to align the axle/yoke.

[yrunvs]

Just to be clear....when I remove the 4 nuts and drop the drive shaft the boot will stay put on the front side right?

And I ran across a post by somebody of a parts schematic showing where each type of grease would be applied and I cant find it now can anybody direct me to it?

free download of tech manual
http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html

if u use the belray on the final drive splines u will have to redo every 10k miles.  using a verty high quality paste with moly will extend that as longs as the o-rings don't fail to 15k+ miles, some sites mechanics state 40k+miles. Just pulled mine apart at about 15k miles, and was still full of the paste grease mixture I used.

I use TS moly and mix with their sticky moly grease.
https://www.tsmoly.com/anti-seize-lubricants-compounds-moly-paste-with-mossub2sub-p-93.html

drive shaft and u-joint only gets moly grease and not the moly paste.
https://www.tsmoly.com/grease-corrosion-control-grease-with-moly-p-11.html

This is what many, many were using a few yrs ago, when a member was selling it. However the member retired and then nobody talked about it.   It is still highly used and recommended by the BMW riders.
https://www.tsmoly.com/grease-moly-grease-p-251.html

I suggest you read up on moly and its benefits and why it should be used.
good read here to start.   
https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Shaft.html#Grease

I'm okay with the belray waterproof every 10,000 miles thats about every tire change. But I am using a moly grease on the drive shaft. Thanks for the info.   Kevin

[Madmike]

Just to be clear....when I remove the 4 nuts and drop the drive shaft the boot will stay put on the front side right?

And I ran across a post by somebody of a parts schematic showing where each type of grease would be applied and I cant find it now can anybody direct me to it?

Look in the shop talk section on the main header page, there is one that shows you where the O rings are and what to lube.  When I go to put the driveshaft and final drive back in I use the flange to turn the driveshaft so the spline can line up.  Put the assembly up in place and it will just start on the 4 mount studs the jiggle the drive flange forth and back a bit and it will easily line up and pop I, have a nut handy to start one and hold it in place.


There is a procedure that you should follow for aligning the drive to help longevity.

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/Elusive%203rd%20O-Ring.htm

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/TireChangeSplineLube.htm

[yrunvs]

Just to be clear....when I remove the 4 nuts and drop the drive shaft the boot will stay put on the front side right?

And I ran across a post by somebody of a parts schematic showing where each type of grease would be applied and I cant find it now can anybody direct me to it?

Look in the shop talk section on the main header page, there is one that shows you where the O rings are and what to lube.  When I go to put the driveshaft and final drive back in I use the flange to turn the driveshaft so the spline can line up.  Put the assembly up in place and it will just start on the 4 mount studs the jiggle the drive flange forth and back a bit and it will easily line up and pop I, have a nut handy to start one and hold it in place.


There is a procedure that you should follow for aligning the drive to help longevity.

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/Elusive%203rd%20O-Ring.htm

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/TireChangeSplineLube.htm

Thanks for the info.

[Madmike]

Is this the correct bearing?
https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/5204-2rs-5204-zz-radial-ball-bearing-20x47x20-6/

And I would only need 1 for the left side? as the right side already has the double bearing right?


Is the thrust washer imperative? shipping is more then the washer!

There is no Honda motorsports dealer here in the town I live in but I can get OEM parts from the local power equipment dealer that sells Honda outboards and generators etc.  Their prices are the same as from the Motorsport dealer in the next town and the Honda online prices.  Big advantage as it is 3 minutes from my house and they often give a bit of a discount.

I have seen pics of guys using a turnbuckle in place of a shock or ratchet straps to lift the swingarm to get clearance to remove the axle with the exhaust in place.

[Chrisj CMA]

Is this the correct bearing?
https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/5204-2rs-5204-zz-radial-ball-bearing-20x47x20-6/

And I would only need 1 for the left side? as the right side already has the double bearing right?


Is the thrust washer imperative? shipping is more then the washer!

There is no Honda motorsports dealer here in the town I live in but I can get OEM parts from the local power equipment dealer that sells Honda outboards and generators etc.  Their prices are the same as from the Motorsport dealer in the next town and the Honda online prices.  Big advantage as it is 3 minutes from my house and they often give a bit of a discount.

I have seen pics of guys using a turnbuckle in place of a shock or ratchet straps to lift the swingarm to get clearance to remove the axle with the exhaust in place.

Turn buckles or just a flat piece of metal with two holes