DaveD(MI)
Member
Posts: 39
'99 Interstate
Michigan
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« on: March 07, 2009, 05:48:08 PM » |
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Has anyone tried the honda brand synthetc oil yet? Any thoughts?
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f-Stop
Member
Posts: 1810
'98 Standard named Hildr
Driftwood, Texas
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« Reply #1 on: March 07, 2009, 07:30:07 PM » |
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I did my last oil change this winter with the HP4S 10W30 Synthetic. Have gone about 1500mi so far and it seems great. Checked the oil level this morning before a ride with Laser Pat and it still looks clear! Will probably change to a 10W40 in May or June when things start to get little hot here in the Texas Hill Country.
I've seen alot of folks on this board running heavier viscosity oils in their Valks. Laser Pat and I actually talked about using the Amsoil synthetic today as we wandered around Luckenbach.
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  Had my blinker on across three states! |
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MP
Member
Posts: 5532
1997 Std Valkyrie and 2001 red/blk I/S w/sidecar
North Dakota
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« Reply #2 on: March 08, 2009, 06:20:52 AM » |
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I am running Amsoil 20/50, and like it.
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 "Ridin' with Cycho" |
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f-Stop
Member
Posts: 1810
'98 Standard named Hildr
Driftwood, Texas
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« Reply #3 on: March 08, 2009, 07:11:16 AM » |
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Hey MP...do you run that heavier viscosity in the winter there?...I mean your winters are known for being brutal (I always think of the movie "Fargo" when I think of cold winters - I know, nothing new) and that initial cold start would be tough to get that crank moving.
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Had my blinker on across three states!
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YardBoy
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« Reply #4 on: March 08, 2009, 07:34:31 AM » |
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Ran the Honda Synthetic 10w30 for 4000 miles, it did quiten the gears a bit and the transmission shifted good. However after about 1500 miles I noticed after the motor/trans got heat soaked the clutch release point was futher out than when running 10w40 oil. The clutch handle had no free play whatever, touch the clutch lever and you had slippage. I took about a 64th of an inch off the clutch lever pin and drove another 2500 miles before changing the oil. I changed to 5w40 Rotella and within 500 miles the clutch was back to what I remember as normal less the 64th I removed from the clutch lever pin. Anyone else tried the 10w30 or was it just time for an adjustment on the fat lady?
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« Last Edit: March 08, 2009, 10:54:03 AM by YardBoy »
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #5 on: March 08, 2009, 08:34:36 AM » |
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In reply to #4. I am of the opinion that there is more problem than what appears with your clutch. Hydraulic clutches are self adjusting and are the most consistent in feel. Milling the pin, I know nothing about but I have 95k miles on my Valk and the clutch is showing no signs of letting up. I think you have a problem there buddy!
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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YardBoy
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« Reply #6 on: March 08, 2009, 10:16:42 AM » |
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No problem with clutch. The only reason I shortened the pin was to make a little cushion to insure no pressure was being applied to release the clutch while riding. Any movement to clutch handle you were at the point of slip. Before using the 10w30 oil the clutch started to engage about half inch from full out. After the 10w30 you were at the last eighth inch. The motorcycle at that time had approximately 6k miles. Roughly 1000 miles driven since last oil change, clutch is perfect. The point being if I put in a new clutch pin the release would be seem as when the motorcycle was new.
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f-Stop
Member
Posts: 1810
'98 Standard named Hildr
Driftwood, Texas
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« Reply #7 on: March 08, 2009, 10:34:52 AM » |
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Have not noticed any kind of slippage with the clutch since using the HP4S. It feels real solid. I did, however change my clutch fluid last Sunday - along with front and rear brake fluids - and did a 200mi ride through the Texas Hill Country yesterday, and before that, a lot of in town driving. Oh yeah, "in town" includes the wonderful Austin Friday afternoon commute...a real clutch - and nerve - test!
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Had my blinker on across three states!
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Kelleysj
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« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2024, 05:20:20 AM » |
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I tried this yesterday after about an hour of riding Started having real trouble shifting. Thinking about draining it and going back to rotella 5W-40 not sure if it's the oil fault but didn't have this problem before.
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h13man
Member
Posts: 1745
To everything there is an exception.
Indiana NW Central Flatlands
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« Reply #9 on: May 07, 2024, 05:33:26 AM » |
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Getting ready to switch from Mobil 1 to Supertech synthetic. Mobil 1 works really well but $3 a qt. difference, I'll be the "crash test dummy".  And no Rotella T6 new formula sucked thus the the continual quest for syn. oil at a reasonable cost. Valvoline dino was a part of this quest and it lasted 3,000 mi. |
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98valk
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« Reply #10 on: May 07, 2024, 06:32:59 AM » |
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Getting ready to switch from Mobil 1 to Supertech synthetic. Mobil 1 works really well but $3 a qt. difference, I'll be the "crash test dummy". And no Rotella T6 new formula sucked thus the the continual quest for syn. oil at a reasonable cost. Valvoline dino was a part of this quest and it lasted 3,000 mi. check the oil doesn't meet the latest car spec. what is your reasoning that a synthetic is necessary? today's oil is 10+x better than the dino oils that the GL1500 engine was designed for in '88 for 8k mile oil changes with Honda oil, which has been shown not to be the greatest over the yrs per used oil analysis. from my earlier post. This new spec requires below 1000ppm of phosphorus and zinc if the oil also is to meet SN and SM gasoline engine specs. Levels this low will wipe out the cams and rocker arms. Ford has already come against this spec citing excessive wear in powerstroke engines. http://fordauthority.com/2017/03/ford-launches-new-oil-spec-for-6-7l-power-stroke-diesel/So far Motorcraft oils have a new Ford specific spec which has higher levels, and early testing shows rotella is maintaining the higher levels and is rated CK-4 but not SN and SM. All Delos are below the 1000ppm level. last I checked Rotella keeps their oil above 1000 ppm So make sure to check your oil of choice in regards to this new spec. This site does virgin oil analysis of oils. https://pqia.org/heavy-duty-diesel-engine-oil/https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,96825.0.html |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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h13man
Member
Posts: 1745
To everything there is an exception.
Indiana NW Central Flatlands
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« Reply #11 on: May 08, 2024, 07:00:50 AM » |
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Not sure what you are trying to convene but cause I can?  No issues after 16 yrs./3 different bikes using synthetic no shifting issues and smooth/quite tranny @ 5,000 mi. change cycle. T6 new formula sucked and changed out after 100 mi. recycled to my clunker Toyota Sienna at the time. Like I said, experiment on going but Mobil 1 is very good just expensive. |
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98valk
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« Reply #12 on: May 08, 2024, 09:36:30 AM » |
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Not sure what you are trying to convene but cause I can? No issues after 16 yrs./3 different bikes using synthetic no shifting issues and smooth/quite tranny @ 5,000 mi. change cycle. T6 new formula sucked and changed out after 100 mi. recycled to my clunker Toyota Sienna at the time. Like I said, experiment on going but Mobil 1 is very good just expensive. u brought up about price, so really no reason for higher cost synthetic unless u are doing extended change intervals. a good diesel oil will work like rotella 15w40 meets ford spec. just trying to help. |
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« Last Edit: May 08, 2024, 01:55:21 PM by 98valk »
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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h13man
Member
Posts: 1745
To everything there is an exception.
Indiana NW Central Flatlands
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« Reply #13 on: May 09, 2024, 05:01:28 AM » |
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Thank you but my family says I'm beyond help. I just know what has worked/not worked for me. Honda dino, over $8 a qt. vs Supertech Syn. @ under $8 a qt. Honda syn. is tad more $ wise than proven Mobil 1. It sad that prices are what they are thus saving $12 a change but after the Valvoline 4T experiment, I'll never use dino oil every again in the MC. May even extend the change to 8,000 mi. per Honda spec's. Experiment in progress but my time in the saddle has become less thus getting 8,000 mi. might become a "age" factor not mileage. |
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98valk
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« Reply #14 on: May 09, 2024, 07:17:04 AM » |
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Thank you but my family says I'm beyond help. I just know what has worked/not worked for me. Honda dino, over $8 a qt. vs Supertech Syn. @ under $8 a qt. Honda syn. is tad more $ wise than proven Mobil 1. It sad that prices are what they are thus saving $12 a change but after the Valvoline 4T experiment, I'll never use dino oil every again in the MC. May even extend the change to 8,000 mi. per Honda spec's. Experiment in progress but my time in the saddle has become less thus getting 8,000 mi. might become a "age" factor not mileage. search here for used oil analysis. There was a thread of supertech oil in an ST1000, great wear reports https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/forums/used-oil-analysis-motorcycle-and-powersports.49/ |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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