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Author Topic: Molybdenum Disulfide Paste/Greese & Installation Video  (Read 2009 times)
Malkozaine
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*****
Posts: 78


Lake County, Illinois


« on: July 19, 2021, 10:11:15 AM »

So I found where to get the three O-Rings and also decided to replace the plastic Wash also and hunted down that.  As for the MDP and Greese need for the install does anyone have any good recommendations and where to buy?  Also any other advice anyone can give for the rear wheel removal and install?  Also are there any good videos of the install, I found the PDF for the rear service just seeing if anyone knows of a good video.  Thanks again for the help.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16770


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: July 19, 2021, 10:45:29 AM »

molybdenum paste can be got at a good honda shop, it would
be called M-77 Assembly Paste. A bunch of people (Dow, DuPont, ...)
make stuff called M-77, some of them say there is 60+ percent
molybdenum in theirs...

I got some Loctite Moly Paste at a local Granger's once.

There's a ton of moly paste to be found on Amazon.

Seems you've read some about it already, I think that bidness
about tightening the axle before the final drive bolts to ensure
alignment is probably more important than what kind of moly
paste you have.

-Mike
« Last Edit: July 21, 2021, 04:30:30 PM by hubcapsc » Logged

Malkozaine
Member
*****
Posts: 78


Lake County, Illinois


« Reply #2 on: July 19, 2021, 10:54:54 AM »


molybdenum paste can be got at a good honda shop, it would
be called M-77 Assembly Paste. A bunch of people (Dow, DuPont, ...)
make stuff called M-77, some of them say there's 60+ percent
molybdenum in theirs...

I got some Loctite Moly Paste at a local Granger's once.

There's a ton of moly paste to be found on Amazon.

Seems you've read some about it already, I think that bidness
about tightening the axle before the final drive bolts to ensure
alignment is probably more important than what kind of moly
paste you have.

-Mike

Sorry I should have separated that MDP and grease.  I read that I would need grease for the rear axel....didn't know if that was true and what type.  As for the MDP how much should I get and should it be the Honda stuff or can and M-77 paste work?  Oh yeah I have seen three different things say to bolt the axel before you bolt the four final drive bolts.
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The emperor has no clothes
Member
*****
Posts: 29945


« Reply #3 on: July 19, 2021, 11:11:28 AM »


molybdenum paste can be got at a good honda shop, it would
be called M-77 Assembly Paste. A bunch of people (Dow, DuPont, ...)
make stuff called M-77, some of them say there's 60+ percent
molybdenum in theirs...

I got some Loctite Moly Paste at a local Granger's once.

There's a ton of moly paste to be found on Amazon.

Seems you've read some about it already, I think that bidness
about tightening the axle before the final drive bolts to ensure
alignment is probably more important than what kind of moly
paste you have.

-Mike

Sorry I should have separated that MDP and grease.  I read that I would need grease for the rear axel....didn't know if that was true and what type.  As for the MDP how much should I get and should it be the Honda stuff or can and M-77 paste work?  Oh yeah I have seen three different things say to bolt the axel before you bolt the four final drive bolts.
Like Mike said, the proper procedure is probably more important than the type of grease or paste.  I still have a little of the Honda Moly60 left. When I run out I probably just get some of the locktite stuff from Amazon. It’s near impossible to find it around here. As for the grease on the pinion cup, I have some  moly fortified stuff. I think I got it at autozone or somewhere. Again, it probably doesn’t matter. Clean everything up real good, apply new grease and paste, PUT HER BACK TOGETHER PROPERLY, and you are good to go.
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TTG53#1717
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Posts: 150

Far West Texas


« Reply #4 on: July 19, 2021, 05:38:34 PM »

Not ever really feeling that close to my local Honda parts guys, I have used this and trust it…

 Molykote G-4700 High-Pressure Grease, 13.7 oz.

https://www.mcmaster.com/4328T26

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‘97 Standard Purple/White
‘13 XL Seventy Two
‘54 KHK
VRCC 1717
98valk
Member
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Posts: 13446


South Jersey


« Reply #5 on: July 19, 2021, 06:49:53 PM »

I use TS-Moly
https://www.tsmoly.com/anti-seize-lubricants-compounds-moly-paste-with-mossub2sub-p-93.html

or
This was sold as Guard Dog a few yrs ago

https://www.tsmoly.com/grease-moly-grease-contact-beemershopcom-info-p-251.html


http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,116696.40.html
So my conclusion is to make sure the U-Joint splines are correctly lubricated, to prevent the drive shaft to final drive splines aka spline coupling (SC) from wearing out. I also installed a new driveshaft to spline cup seal every other tire change.

The SC in a perfect application would have zero forward/rearward movement and would be submerged in oil which would result in zero wear and fretting. Fretting is a type of corrosion which gives that rust powder look. Is not from water intrusion. In some applications they actually glue the splines together to stop movement.

Honda provided the locking spring clip on the SC end of the drive shaft to help reduce movement of the SC, but it is still not a solid zero movement connection. So this is where the lubricated U-joint splines come into effect, thereby doing all of the movement, to reduce or actually eliminate any SC movement.

In a few of the links I provide it is stated that the SC splines should be hardened to greatly reduce wear.  Did Honda do this to the parts?, it doesn't seem like they did, since that would have been a much higher cost.

In my case I inadvertently mixed greases with different bases for the u-joint splines, by re-greasing and not cleaning off the old grease.
My fault, at the time, I didn't realize they had different bases. So what happened the greases started to dry out and not provide the easy sliding movement as needed and the SC failed in 17k miles.

For re-installing the U-Joint boot I coated the inside lips with silicone grease and it pops on with zero problems. suggest not to use a silicone spray which has petroleum products in it and other things which could degrade the boot material.

So to bring this all together, proper lubrication of the u-joint splines is extremely important and should be done every tire change to protect the SC. 
This time I used moly bearing chassis grease for the U-Joint for even more friction reduction and easier sliding.

For the SC I mixed TS-70 moly paste with some high temp grease so there would be about a 50/50 moly to grease ratio as recommended by the Dan Foss pdf which is a much higher percent of moly than the 3% moly grease the Honda manual calls for.

The following documents have some very good info about SCs and lubrication requirements.

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/693/fretting-wear

https://www.powertransmission.com/issues/0214/spline-couplings.pdf

https://assets.danfoss.com/documents/76142/AI152986482538en-000304.pdf

https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=423609

https://gearsolutions.com/departments/tooth-tips-a-brief-overview-of-splines/

https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=383504
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
RonW
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Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #6 on: July 20, 2021, 05:16:11 PM »

if you ever wondered,

Molybdenum is properly pronounced, Mo-Lib ..... D-numb

instead of for example, Molly D numb,

or, Molly-B-D-numb ..... which includes the 'b' but as incorrect as Moly 6% paste.

mainly there is no Molly in the phonetics only a Mo in molybdenum.

click the sound icon [here]
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
Ramie
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Posts: 1318


2001 I/S St. Michael MN


« Reply #7 on: July 20, 2021, 06:17:58 PM »

A number of other opinions.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,23305.0.html
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“I am not a courageous person by nature. I have simply discovered that, at certain key moments in this life, you must find courage in yourself, in order to move forward and live. It is like a muscle and it must be exercised, first a little, and then more and more.  A deep breath and a leap.”
RonW
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*****
Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #8 on: July 20, 2021, 07:59:03 PM »

I read over Sodbuster's post that Ramie linked. Instead of using Bel-Ray Assy Lube for the driven flange, I used plain waterproof Bel-Ray. I did mix in a little Honda moly paste to get some moly. This isn't always recommended as the base material might conflict, or something like that.

Bel-Ray Assy Lube isn't manufactured anymore as far as I can find. Optionally, Guard Dog 570 (moly paste) also isn't available since Guard Dog ceased doing business in 2016, here.

Apparently, T. S. Moly Lubricants is about the only popular source for moly paste.



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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
Valkorado
Member
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Posts: 10491


VRCC DS 0242

Gunnison, Colorado (7,703') Here there be twisties.


« Reply #9 on: July 20, 2021, 09:20:50 PM »

I use this stuff, 65% moly.  8 oz. jar is enough for a lifetime.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-234227-LOC51048-Anti-Seize-Compound/dp/B001HWBSJW/ref=sr_1_1?crid=PWBD6WB9RQVM&dchild=1&keywords=loctite+234227+loc51048+moly+paste+anti-seize+compound&qid=1626840928&sprefix=Moly+paste+loctite%2Caps%2C384&sr=8-1#customerReviews
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there's always a pigeon that'll come sh!t on your hood?
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97 Tourer "Silver Bullet"
01 Interstate "Ruby"

98valk
Member
*****
Posts: 13446


South Jersey


« Reply #10 on: July 21, 2021, 10:09:35 AM »

I read over Sodbuster's post that Ramie linked. Instead of using Bel-Ray Assy Lube for the driven flange, I used plain waterproof Bel-Ray. I did mix in a little Honda moly paste to get some moly. This isn't always recommended as the base material might conflict, or something like that.

Bel-Ray Assy Lube isn't manufactured anymore as far as I can find. Optionally, Guard Dog 570 (moly paste) also isn't available since Guard Dog ceased doing business in 2016, here.

Apparently, T. S. Moly Lubricants is about the only popular source for moly paste.






they still have the guard dog 
https://www.tsmoly.com/grease-moly-grease-contact-beemershopcom-info-p-251.html

and this one which I think is an update to the guard dog.

https://www.tsmoly.com/grease-spline-grease-p-367.html

S-60 SG is designed to lubricate all types of splined shafts, motorcycle drive splines, u-joints, swing arms, starter drive gear, bushings, pins, etc. Formulated with synthetic base oil and 60% molybdenum disulfide, TS-60 SG withstands extreme heat and protects components under heavy load. Uniform and durable boundary lubrication is provided on parts operating in wet and harsh environments. TS-60 SG is highly adhesive and will not fling off or dry out under accelerated conditions.

I posted here about it.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,116786.0/topicseen.html
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
RonW
Member
*****
Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #11 on: July 21, 2021, 02:20:24 PM »

I'm probably getting TS-70 Moly Paste With 70% MoS2

Mainly for this reason which sounds a lot like Belray WP for boat trailer axles and wheel bearings .....

★★★★★It has proven to be an outstanding lubricant for a saltwater environment, above and below the surface. (product literature)

Then I mix it with Belray WP grease to make Moly grease instead of buying Moly grease separately.

IMHO, this is the type of item that you should decide on ahead of time instead of last minute.

10 oz Squeeze Tube $40
« Last Edit: July 21, 2021, 02:22:34 PM by RonW » Logged

2000 Valkyrie Tourer
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