For those of you that have rebuilt your clutch...A QUESTION!

[John Schmidt]

Did you replace anything other than the frictions disks A? I'm thinking both the nine A and one B, plus Plate B and Clutch Spring #22402-MN5-000. All are available from Service Honda for $238. I already have the special multifaceted nut, just curious as to if anything else is recommended. Plus, in many(most) cases when working on the Valk I tend to stick with OEM parts, so has that been your source or is there a different course taken. The Wing reverse motor I'm working on to use in the trike appears to have a good clutch, but has roughly 70k on it and it's sitting on a table in my shop...perfect time and place to work on it before swapping the motors. After I'm done riding in 10 years at 94  , the trike will go to my daughter and husband. That should give them a still functional clutch for years to come. Suggestions? How long do most clutches go before needing attention, I'm not a hard rider so 70k for me wouldn't normally be an issue, but I don't know about the prior owner of the Wing motor.

[The emperor has no clothes]

I did mine due to the rivet plate coming apart. I only replaced that, the friction plates, the bearing in the hub. Along with rebuilding the slave cylinder seals and such. I doubt your clutch needs anything at 70k. For peace of mind maybe the rivet plate, bearing, and seals on the slave cylinder.

[Hook#3287]

WOW

Had to look in the journal to see when I did mine and turns out the clutch (rivets) went out exactly 20 years ago to the day.  7-2-2002.  She had 57K on her.  99 tourer.

Anyways, not knowing better, I replaced all the 19 plates just cause I was there.  

Looking back, pretty sure it was not needed.

New clutch spring.

I didn't mess with any parts in the cover.

I bought a new gasket that's still in the package.

All OEM

[John Schmidt]

Guys, thanks for the input. I'm only doing a rebuild because the motor is not in the bike so easy to do now rather than later once installed. I'd kick myself if I had problems later on and think about how easy it would have been while the motor was on a table.

Next question; does anyone have the main shaft holder I can either borrow or buy. Or give me an idea on how to make one. I need it to torque the large output shaft nut...you turn the nut, the main shaft moves with it. It's #11 in the parts breakdown below. If I could find something with matching splines I'd make one.

https://www.servicehonda.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c1c95f870023420a2f101/final-gearshaft

[Skinhead]

I believe there is a spec in the service manual as to the service limit for disk replacement.  I'd guess that yours are fine at 70K miles, but I understand your reasoning on replacement.  I have 150k miles on my Interstate and 70k on my standard.  Both have original clutches in them.

[Hook#3287]

John, the below post shows the home made tools used in the clutch work and gives some insight on doing the job.


http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,118227.0.html

" I'm only doing a rebuild because the motor is not in the bike so easy to do now rather than later once installed."

I'm more of the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" school, but if ya gotta fix it, do it right.

Also (can't speak to trikes), doing the clutch with motor in the bike wasn't that bad.

Course, that WAS 20 years ago.

[da prez]

John , I have a clutch with less than 3000 miles on it. Contact me if interested.

                                  Ross

[John Schmidt]

John, the below post shows the home made tools used in the clutch work and gives some insight on doing the job.


http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,118227.0.html

" I'm only doing a rebuild because the motor is not in the bike so easy to do now rather than later once installed."

I'm more of the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" school, but if ya gotta fix it, do it right.

Also (can't speak to trikes), doing the clutch with motor in the bike wasn't that bad.

Course, that WAS 20 years ago.

Yeah...20 yrs. ago I could still bend, plus get up and down. Now down is easy...up...not so much. 

[John Schmidt]

John , I have a clutch with less than 3000 miles on it. Contact me if interested.

                                  Ross

Hey bud, I'll call you this afternoon.

[valkmc]

I replaced the friction plate and bearings only on my 98 way back in 2009. It had 60K on it. I it sold with 90K and the last time I spoke to the guy who bought it the bike was up to 110k. No problems with the clutch.

[steveB (VRCC UK)]

John never seen a worn out clutch in Valk or Wing but have replaced the riveted Plate B on more than a few. I've replaced a few friction plates where the detached rivets have scored them but not for wear. I check all plates for thickness and then flatness, also the diaphragm spring for height. Again never seen one out of specification. I like your idea of checking the clutch whilst the motors on the bench, not so keen on the spending money idea. SteveB

[98valk]

on the GW GL1500 forums, well known for clutches to last 300k+ and that's a heavier bike and sometimes pulling a trailer. in '97 along with the valkyrie all clutch discs are the same wheres prior to '97 some discs where a lower material and still lasted 300K+.

case in point when my '98 damper plate went at 42k miles I bought a clutch assembly from a GW 1500 that had over 120k on it to make the re-install on mine easier, which it did. I mic'd the 120k mile plates just to see and they still had plenty of wear left to get to 300k miles.

[John Schmidt]

Good to know the longevity is there, especially with the heavier Wings since this is going into a trike. I have one last question re. reassembly. I know the plates have a specific order and orientation of that section of the clutch, but nowhere do I find there is a specific orientation of the plate cluster to the outer basket. I assume that's correct....??