Fork oil replacement

[Swinborg]

Morning guys!!!

Hope everyone is well!

I was wondering if you fellas had a best way of replacing the fork oil?

Zero play in the Stantions and no leaks from the seal (well that’s presuming there is oil in the forks right!!!). 

So wondering if there is a best way of doing an oil change?

Thanks

 Max

[Hook#3287]

Unfortunately Mother Honda did not include drain bolts in the forks, so the best (but most work) way is to remove the forks and hold them upside down.

If swapping out the fluid is the only goal, the next time I do so, I'm going to attempt to suck all fluid out with a small tube and pump, fill it to the measured from top specs and call it done.

[..]

https://postimg.cc/gallery/7ZQt2pj

The following is from my memory - not always 100%

Something I wrote up a long time ago.

Cover tank etc with towels/rags

Bike on lift front wheel high enough to get a small jack under
Undo pinch bolts at fork caps
Loosen fork caps until completely unthreaded
Raise front wheel so forks compress completely

Remove right front fork cap. Have to try and grip the flat sided-round sided nut under the right fork cap. 
Can't use a wrench cause there are a couple of small flange parts sticking out. Hold this in place and undo fork cap.
Count threads exposed
Undo flat sided-round sided nut about half way up the threaded portion
Thread bolt you have found in your workshop into hole
Make sure it's a good fit
Remove and wrap a coat hanger around it
Screw back in
Using a flat bladed screwdriver prise the flat sided-round sided nut away from the tube below to remove collar
Remove collar that has a slot
Slide the shiny bit up over your bolt and coat hanger

Let front wheel jack down

Now use another coat hanger with a slight hook on the end and fish down in the fork tube and remove the spring. SLOWLY to let the oil drain off. This is why you covered up in the beginning with towels/rags
Slide new spring back over

Raise front wheel back up

Slide shiny bit back over wire and bolt
Replace collar
Remove bolt you have found in your workshop and turn flat sided-round sided nut down until you get to the amount of threads you counted earlier

Left fork

Insert special tool and undo completely remove
Hook out fork spring SLOWLY to let oil drain off. Washer comes with it.
Insert new spring AND then washer
Now using special tool screw part back on.
Needs 2 people cause you are pushing against the spring

Lower front wheel

Wait a couple of minutes for oil to drain down inside tube and then measure from top of fork tube. I did it with a bit of wood dowel as a dipstick. Adjust oil level as needed

Screw on fork caps. Tighten pinch bolts. Bounce forks a couple of times

Go for a short SLOW ride and test forks.

If OK drink beer.

If not OK I can't be held responsible

[h13man]

Getting ready to change my seals but this can apply to changing the fluid also. Messy but you don't have to remove the forks completely.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,124686.0.html

[Peteg]

I've done the suck tube method on other bikes, not with inverted forks. Personally never been as successful as internet videos like Dell Boy's video. Even with standard (not inverted tubes) I had trouble getting to the bottom of the tube. Was only able to drain about 80% of the oil. I had trouble getting clear plastic tubing through the hole in the center of the fork. In the end I cut maybe a 30" long piece of 3/8" pvc pipe ran the clear tube though the pipe so it couldn't rolled up to get the tube down near the bottom of the fork. I then pull the pipe off the long tube prior to draining. Then I ran the tube into a graduated cylinder. I don't use a pump. I put a clean filter on a little shop vac and hold the blow hose at the top of the fork with a plastic bag wrapped around it. I blow the oil out. No matter what method you use knowing how much oil came out is pretty important. I would also check the oil level prior to doing anything. That way if you put the same amount back (maybe a little more) and the measure check tells you your good, you know the shocks are purged of air. Oil level is critical. Too high will be too stiff and put seals at risk of failing. Too low will cause bottoming. If you notice either issue after a change I would recommend jacking the bike, pulling the plugs and measuring, you might also need to jack the front tire to fully compress the forks with plugs removed to get the correct measurement. The most likely issue with a measured level check oil change is low oil due to air in the system making the oil level seem higher than it is. The air will purge once the bike goes down the road.


I would say the the suck out method would be worth doing if you decide to check your fork oil and it looks like it really does not  need to be changed. You might also do it if you trying to trouble shoot a front suspension problem like not enough resistance / easy bottoming. If your fork oil looks like it needs to be changed, I would recommend the formal fork removal method.

[hubcapsc]

Remove the forks from the bike, disassemble them, put them back together
with replaced wear parts and new fluid and Progressive springs  ...

-Mike

[RonW]

Max, just asking. Have you taken forks apart before? I don't know how much detail to include. Thanks.

If you're going to replace the fork oil, you might as well replace the seals since they're 25 years old ('97). Also, it's better to disassemble the R. fork's internal parts otherwise it'll be difficult getting oil into the damper rod, see Hubcapsc's video. I wouldn't unscrew the damper rod from the fork tube holder though as there's absolutely nothing to gain from doing that. The R. fork has only 4 internal parts to deal with. Replacing the bushing shouldn't be necessary with your bike's 18K miles but you might order them for the same shipping cost and in the event they're discontinued.

Enlarge graphic to the largest size, two clicks, otherwise the details are blurry.


I have Progressive springs in my Valk forks and it eliminates dive and the bike carves the turns like butter.

"Dollar-for-dollar, this is one of the best mods you can do for the bike." (bareasschoppers).

[Swinborg]

Hey Ron!

Not taken apart yet.  It’s next on the list when the swing arm arrives and I have installed it.  I am very keen on having a plan before getting elbows deep….

…more info the batter matey!  Oh and thanks for all of the tips so far - been super helpful!

Max

[h13man]

I agree with the Progressive springs though I'm using single wound #80  Racetech. They were a tad stiff at 1st. but broke in very quickly. Racetech are ordered for custom weight applications. Used Progressives on my VT1100C but after 25,000 mi. 50% of two up riding, they started to get a little soft.

[RonW]

Well Max, be sure to post a photo of what you're working on, daily. No photo, never happened.