R & M Works belly tank

[WintrSol]

I bought my Valkyrie 8-1/2 years ago, and it came with the title tank installed. Now, it appears that the main line between the tanks has started to leak at the main tank end. Anyone here know how to contact someone at the, now long closed, company who built it?

I'm looking to buy, or the instructions to build, a new line. Or, at least, what I need to cap the connection at the tank.

[Foozle]

Since you've had the belly tank for many years with no issues, I assume the leak is NOT with the bung that's silver-soldered into the upper fuel tank - but with the line that feeds (via gravity) fuel from the upper (factory) fuel tank downward to the belly tank? 

I have the original R & M manual and it provides no specs on the fuel lines.  However, the aforementioned hose connects to the bung using a 1/2" adapter - so similarly sized cap should work to seal it off (if needed).

Two fellows on this board who've had considerable experience with this setup are Mark Tobias (MarkT) and Gerry McFarland (Bigwolf) - both of whom are very mechanically knowledgeable.  They can likely provide you with the details you're seeking.

Sorry I can't be of more help.

Terry

[WintrSol]

You are correct - it seems to be the hose that was sealed to the connector. We'll see if the others chime in, but I'll probably have to run the pump to empty the belly tank and remove the line, so I can go by a plumbing supply to find a cap. Or, maybe, rebuild the line, if I can find the proper fuel tubing.

[Foozle]

If the belly tank is otherwise functional - and the extra capacity is a worth reliance on a fuel pump - I can't imagine replacing the line would be anything too difficult.  (If memory serves, MarkT replumbed his belly tank so the fuel pump is used to replenish the main tank - not directly feed the carbs).

However, you're likely correct:  To do this, it would probably be easiest to drain the tank and remove the entire unit.  (While you're at it, I might also replace the return line and maybe even the fuel pump).

Perhaps a good winter project? 

P.S. If you just want to revert back to factory, the tank should be an easy sell.  They rarely if ever come up for sale.

[JimF2424]

I put a belly tank on my bike, it came with a 1/2" but it looked flimsy, so I  bought 1/2" Marine Fuel line, it's thicker and doesn't collapse.   You can get it at any boat supply store.

[WintrSol]

I put a belly tank on my bike, it came with a 1/2" but it looked flimsy, so I  bought 1/2" Marine Fuel line, it's thicker and doesn't collapse.   You can get it at any boat supply store.

So, did you take the one you got with the tank, so they could make it to length, with the fittings on both ends? I'd like it better if the line were at least 1" longer, because of how little room one has for a wrench between the tank and frame, and the amount of strain the fitting gets each time.

[MarkT]

My install is considerably modified from the R&M install. Link here:
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,84264.0.html

I also replaced the R&M tube between the tanks (aka the bung tube) with a heavier tube - maybe like the marine tube mentioned above.  It may be the thicker pressure/suck tubing they use for A/C lines - been a number of years since I completed this install.  But it needs to be more stout so it doesn't collapse - I had that problem.

It would be easy to return the bike to OEM configuration. Just plug the tank bung hole with appropriate plug from Ace hardware/True Value and route the fuel tube from the BT to the carbs back from the petcock where it used to be.  

But IIWY I would keep it & fix it.  A working BT is very handy especially if you pull trailers or ride in very remote places.  Or just want lots of range.  I also have an IS tank so I'm just under 10 gallons & almost 350miles range when not towing.  I have rescued several group riders who ran out of fuel.  If you fix it, I would add a heat shield to keep the header heat off the pump.  Like this:



And you might want to pick up a backup fuel pump anyway.  Others did, and so did I.  But the consensus is, they fail because of the header heat combined with the pump not being immersed in the tank, like car fuel pumps are.  There are other useful mods besides the very custom mod of making the BT a super-reserve that replenishes the main tank, that I did.  Like adding a T fitting with a drain plug or valve at the inlet of the fuel pump so you can drain all the fuel out.
Like this:

[JimF2424]

I just bought like 4 foot and cut it as needed.