im back at it and about had it same issues. noise in left valve cover.

[Jackl0426]

so i took some time away from the bike and now back at it. this bike is the most frustrating thing ive ever owned. ive now noticed beyond the noise knocking under left valve cover exhaust soounds different not smooth. stethascope tells me noise is coming from under left valve cover #2 cylinder in valve train not cylinder speeds with acceleration much louder than a tick. so i pulled plugs. 2 is different than otherr 5 black not tan the cylinder is firing. pulling that plug wire definatly kills that cylinder. exhaust temps are all equal. so i did a compression test on all cylinders operating temp they werent perfect all within 5 psi of each other at around 155 to 160. so #2 is rich. ive found no vac leaks loose boots nothing. and a pop ever so often at idle from left side. just not smooth like right  bank. i dont have a tool to mess with pilot screw on that carb maybe need one. so i dont know why that 2 cylinder is running rich. i dont know whats making the knock noise. i dont  know cam journal that left side of engine has a whine too. frustrated as all heck.

things ive done.
check valve clearances while cold and hot all ok.
inspect cams lobes some wear no flat spots.
change oil and filter.
change plugs.
check rocker box torque ok.
pull cover check belts cam pulley idlers timing is ok. everything is torqued nothing loose. no metal abnormal issues around cam no movement that i could tell.
cut filter no metal. i did find the grey matter in left valve cover first time i pulled it looked like aluminum havent see it since oil looked normal when drained. somrthing is up but i cant figure it out im not really willing to pull cam rockers and or head at this point. its been all work and no play getting burnt out on it.  any thoughts at this point im all out. i am going to check valve clearances one more time its finally cooling off here in phoenix in the morning last valve check was at 105 thats as cool as i could check unless i wanted to check them at 90 at 2am.

im all out of ideas its got me angry at this point to the point i would sell it to relieve my stress.

[sandy]

Jack: I have a pilot screw tool. What day are you available?

[Jackl0426]

well hi sandy. good to hear from u saturday is gonna be best for me. been very busy. bring your helmet this time. i would like yout o ride it compare to yours. something isnt right. im frustrated,

[John Schmidt]

You say #2 is running rich, is it wet & black or dry & dusty black. The latter generally means rich, the former is possible misfire. If the former issue, might try changing out the plug wire.

[Weezyrider]

I'm actually having this problem with my number 3 cylinder.  Have you tested your coil(s)?  That's next on my list.  I understand your frustration, I've spent lots of time and dough getting mine back up to snuff this summer, now it's getting time to ride. Hang tough, the solution is there. Somewhere.

[Jackl0426]

Dry black. It's firing but not right. I have not tried swapping wires. If I pul that wire whie running definate miss so its firing. Also exhaust Temps good so all cylinders are running. Compression is good. Very sight miss through rpm range clears high rpm. Also this damn knock same cylinder steth tells me it is in valve train but hard to tell for sure speeds with acceleration louder than normal tick. Guess I'll try wire next I'm so frustrated right now. Debating g a sell dint know if I want to spend more money grrrrrr

[98valk]

"check valve clearances while cold and hot all ok."

there isn't a cold and hot valve adjustment
there is only one valve adjustment temp range per the manual pg 3-7, engine cold below 95F.  many pros recommend engine temp to be between 80F to 95F and is what I use.

best and easy to use tool for pilot adjustment, Honda 07mma-mt3010b wrench pilot screw.

Yes I always had that weird tick/knock noise, its from the following.
number two plug and number five plug will always provide a different reading than all the others, due to the hot coolant pipes from the heads right under the carbs. yes my number two was the worst.
The number two is even worst due to heat from radiator hitting the carb.

My solution, made small heat shields for the coolant pipes (meant to post pics over 2 yrs ago and just never did).
also for number two, after doing Mr. John Schmidt's fantastic CHOKE LEVER CONVERSION, https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,93903.0.html
there was room to extend the radiator heat shield to fully protect the carb from the heat. number one carb is fully protected from radiator heat so never a problem. number two is not protected due to heat shield providing the clearance for the choke cable.

after doing those mods the tick and funny idle like a slight miss went away and two and five plug readings now match all the others. also now there is a more steady idle.

Note: when this engine was in the Goldwing the coolant pipes locations didn't matter since the two carbs were centered above the PAIR valves.

"i dont  know cam journal that left side of engine has a whine too"
good chance its alternator bearing whine.  many over the yrs have suggested pulling it apart around 50k+ miles to clean out internal dust and check the rear bearing. at 52k miles I checked mine and the bearing was just starting to feel rough. I replaced it with a NAPA alternator bearing 6000-2RSJ.

[Jackl0426]

I appreciate your reply yes I'm aware of only valve adjustment is Stone cold engine. Just checked them while hot to see if there was any difference when hot and it was making knock noise valves still in spec even when hot. i havent been able to check them below 95 by the time it gets that cool im in bed i live in phoenix az. its 100 right now 520pm. Yeah I'm just thinking I want a bike I can  ride more than work on. I have a vtx 1800 so I'm not out a ride when this one is down. I just didn't want the proverbial boat happiest day when u buy it and even happier when i sell it. I really appreciate the info. ill recheck listen close to alternator. sure sounds like whine is right in the same area as the knock sound who knows tired no more bike thinking tonight. tomorrow is another day..

oh and forgol lol also still have the vibration at the footpegs between 54 and 62 that is driving me crazy.  even after new dampers driveline and pinion cup. so guess it still does need the ujoint. fun.

[Rio Wil]

Any chance of a broken valve spring on that no. 2 cylinder and the whine might be a overly tight timing belt on that side.

[Jims99]

Have you had someone who is more familiar with the valkyrie engine look and listen. I have 3 and each one has slightly different sounds. They all run great and have put over 25k miles each on two of them. Sometimes mechanical minds listen and overthink things, I know I do. Usually a weird noise I think I’m hearing ends up being nothing. I’m not saying not to move forward and check things out, just try not to stress about the unknown. Hopefully it’s something simple. I’m following to see what comes of this and learn more about these gems. Good luck.

[pancho]

im all out of ideas its got me angry at this point to the point i would sell it to relieve my stress.


Well...

[Jackl0426]

sorry been busy working. with help of a member here in az ive gottien the bike runing pretty well.. ive readjusted pilot screws. was ready to check sync but got to busy its just finally cooled off here in phoenix. i still have a slight different idle not as smooth puff sound. from left exhaust and doesnt blow as hard out exhaust. i suspect carb sync. i have not ridden much last time out vacuum line came off petcock but oddly enough bike was still running but like crap. found that issue and runs  much better but suspect bad petcock since it shouldnt have run at all. with no vacuum to it. will rebuild or go with manual petcock havent decided. yet. one thing after another that i will eventually figure all of it out.

[Avanti]

Modifying the OEM fuel petcock to remove vacuum function 

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,37577.0.html

[Steel cowboy]

If you still have the issue, you may also try swapping coils. A weak coil under load will also give a weak spark. Runs good at engine idle, but not at rapid firing as under a load.

[Jackl0426]

the puff puff from left bank only at idle right off idle its gone. left doesnt blow as hard either. seems like sync to me. will find out.

[Jims99]

Sounds like a fuel issue at this point. Syncing carbs and adjusting pilot screws would be my next move. What about the intake O-rings? Have you checked or replaced them? The do dry out over time or may have slipped while installing. If the petcock isn’t working properly, you could be sucking air (or fuel) in that way also.

[Jackl0426]

Yeah I adjusted pilot screws that made a big difference. But still there. I know the petcock needs attention. When the vacuum line came off petcock it still ran. Terrible but still ran. That’s next. I check the intake orings they seemed ok but I will probably replace. I replaced the rubber vacuum caps on runners still same issue I will be checking sync soon.