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Author Topic: MY CHOKE LEVER CONVERSION.....as requested.  (Read 3470 times)
John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15192


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« on: March 21, 2017, 09:22:25 PM »

I'll answer a few emails, a PM, and a request on the Tech Board by posting the design specs and general instructions here. Good luck to those that try it, I suggest you scrounge up some SS flat stock in order to keep it looking good. Mine has been in place for close to ten years without a failure, and when adjusted right it will hold any position it's placed in. The crossover cable is retained, I've never heard of it failing anyway. All the swivel connections were done with SS bolts and nylock nuts, plus a "wave" type washer to keep tension on the moving parts.

The first pic is a rough drawing of the actuating lever and mount.


In this pic, you'll see where you have to grind/cut out parts of the long arm to clear adjacent parts. When attaching the arm, I suggest using a shop towel to catch filings when you drill the two holes for those tiny bolts. I don't recall the size but use some nylock nuts and Loctite. Mine haven't moved since installed. Push the choke slider all the way to its resting point(unengaged), then make certain the lever and linkage is also at full unengaged position, then drill the holes in the slider. You should drill the long arm holes first, then place everything where described and mark/drill the slider.


To mount the lever with the "L" shaped piece, you need to refer to the link below. Refer to item #10, the rod that holds the carbs together, you want the outer rod. Loosen the nut at the end near the radiator, don't remove it...you'll drop it and never find it(don't ask). Loosen enough to tap that rod rearward to give space under the nut on the other end for the "L" shape bracket. After mounting the bracket, tighten the nuts and use some blue Loctite on both ends. Again....mine hasn't moved since installed. You're on your own re. the black knob, not sure where I got mine but most likely from one of many junk boxes in the shop. I just used 1/4" bolts throughout except where the long arm fastened to the choke slider, those are quite small....your choice. When assembled, you can adjust the tension on the nuts so the leverage stays put. You may have to adjust the crossover cable so it will move properly, I didn't have to but not all bikes are quite the same. Good luck, don't be afraid to ask questions.

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/GL1/gl20.jpg
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Beardo
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Posts: 1247

Regina, Saskatchewan Canada


« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2017, 05:48:49 AM »

Thanks for posting that again. Probably one of the smartest fixes I've seen.  cooldude

Putting it in the memory bank in case mine ever has issues.
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Eric58701
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Posts: 117


Minot NorthDakota


« Reply #2 on: March 24, 2017, 08:47:19 AM »

that is a great idea, i just hate the feel of my choke cable,  and i replaced the main cable once, this seems to be a great improvement
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Harryc
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Posts: 765


Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #3 on: March 24, 2017, 09:53:29 AM »

Sell them as a kit John, I'd buy one.
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John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15192


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #4 on: March 24, 2017, 11:34:55 AM »

Sell them as a kit John, I'd buy one.
If I could find a cheap source(read inexpensive) for the SS and a shop that will cut out the parts for me also inexpensively, then maybe. To do it on a small order basis and do the bending/cutting/drilling by hand makes it too expensive. If I were to make up kits, I'd also order a bunch of the choke sliders so I could drill and attach the long arm in advance. Then all that would be done by the individual rider would be to remove the choke cable and make the adjustment on the rod for mounting the "L" bracket. IOW, the kit would be substantially preassembled. Doing an individual kit on a one or two order basis would be cost prohibitive for the buyer.
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