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CoreyP
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« on: May 15, 2025, 12:21:12 PM » |
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I adjusted my valves, made sure cylinder 1 was at TDC. Used tape to make sure I didn't mess up which cylinder I was on. When finished with cylinder 1, I put a little piece of tape on it. Not my first time adjusting valves on an engine but the first time on a Valkyrie.
Problem is the bike sounds different after the adjustment. I heard more valve noise, doesn't sound like a miss fire or anything bad other than than I can heard the valves more than I could have before. Bike has 50,000 miles on it and this could have been it's first valve adjustment. Almost everyone was out of adjustment. The bike's idle is now maybe 300 RPM higher then then it was before the adjustment. I assume the bike is running better after the adjustment?
This normal or should worry about it? Right now I'm afraid to run the bike more than 10 MPH for a little run down my street. Feels good, just noisy.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #1 on: May 15, 2025, 01:48:05 PM » |
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When #1 is at TDC so is #2. However, only one of them can be adjusted. You determine which one is to be adjusted by seeing which tappet is loose. You adjust the loose one then you either go to the next one in the order (according to the book) or you turn it 360 degrees and now the tight one is loose. I’ve seen people try to adjust the wrong ones. It doesn’t end well
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CoreyP
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« Reply #2 on: May 15, 2025, 02:13:58 PM » |
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I took the spark plug out of 1 and could see the piston it was all the way up. Number 3 was down so I started with 1 and followed the manual from there. Number 1 was a little loose but I was not aware of number possibly being the starting point. The rocker arm had play in it so I thought I was all good to go. Is that not what I should be checking for free play?
The bike is running well except for the noise, is from both sides. I guess I will do it again tomorrow, check over everything. If you started at 2 what order would you go in?
2,3,6,1,4,5????
Any ways I will go 360 degrees around if I have too.
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« Last Edit: May 15, 2025, 02:25:44 PM by CoreyP »
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #3 on: May 15, 2025, 02:38:10 PM » |
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If you don’t have the book just do the pairs one at a time.
Set to 1/2. Adjust the loose one. Then 360 and do the other one
Set to 3/4 repeat
then same for 5/6
If you have the book don’t start with #2. When you get the 1.2 mark aligned and #1 is tight and #2 is loose then do as the book says. Rotate 360 so #1 is loose. NOW follow the sequence in the book
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« Last Edit: May 15, 2025, 03:34:23 PM by Chrisj CMA »
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CoreyP
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« Reply #4 on: May 15, 2025, 08:15:07 PM » |
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I have the manual, I'll it try again tomorrow. Thing is I thought cylinder 1 was loose hopefully I can tell the difference now that I already adjusted all of them? I'll find out when I do it I guess.
I ready don't understand why one cylinder would be adjustable at TDC while the other one also at TDC isn't adjustable??? Shouldn't cylinder 1 and cylinder 2 be the same at TDC? For that matter 3,4 and 5,6??
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #6 on: May 16, 2025, 05:06:48 AM » |
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I have the manual, I'll it try again tomorrow. Thing is I thought cylinder 1 was loose hopefully I can tell the difference now that I already adjusted all of them? I'll find out when I do it I guess.
I ready don't understand why one cylinder would be adjustable at TDC while the other one also at TDC isn't adjustable??? Shouldn't cylinder 1 and cylinder 2 be the same at TDC? For that matter 3,4 and 5,6??
When 1&2 are at TDC only one is on it’s compression stroke. The other has a valve open on its exhaust stroke. You can’t adjust a tappet while it is under pressure opening it’s valve. Here’s a clue. You should only have had to adjust a screw a TINY bit to achieve the correct clearance. If you had to turn out any screw more than a tiny bit you’re probably doing it wrong. Also, upon re-reading your original post I see you said almost everything was out of adjustment. I’ve done several Valkyrie valve adjustments and never had more than three or so that were ever so slightly off spec. Always so close that one could argue “close enough”. This is also a common report from others I’ve talked to, “a couple needed a tiny adjustment” The fact that noise changed, idle changed, and you report making so many adjustments lends me to think you should double check your work. It doesn’t seem ok what you are reporting. |
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« Last Edit: May 16, 2025, 06:52:36 AM by Chrisj CMA »
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luftkoph
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« Reply #7 on: May 16, 2025, 05:53:08 AM » |
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I have the manual, I'll it try again tomorrow. Thing is I thought cylinder 1 was loose hopefully I can tell the difference now that I already adjusted all of them? I'll find out when I do it I guess.
I ready don't understand why one cylinder would be adjustable at TDC while the other one also at TDC isn't adjustable??? Shouldn't cylinder 1 and cylinder 2 be the same at TDC? For that matter 3,4 and 5,6??
It's a four stroke engine, there's a tdc on compression and tdc on exhaust, check valve lash on tdc compression. If all or most of your lash was tight before you adjusted them it might just be normal tappet noises, ever hear a airhead BMW ? tik tik tik tik a happy tappet is a noisy tappet. |
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Some day never comes
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CoreyP
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« Reply #8 on: May 31, 2025, 08:25:51 PM » |
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Last week was 90+ and high humidity so it took to today for my next attempt at valve adjusting.
Turns out I was 360 degrees out of whack. Problem solved. All adjusted correctly now.
After a short test run I ran about 80 miles with my wife on back, sounds good, runs well and I swear I'm get a better throttle response from about 2500- 3000 RPM.
New oil and coolant so I'm done for project at the moment.
Next up will be front forks. 25 year old oil can't be the best thing in the world??? Probably coming up in August which is basically my dead of winter for riding.
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98valk
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« Reply #9 on: June 01, 2025, 04:16:10 AM » |
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Last week was 90+ and high humidity so it took to today for my next attempt at valve adjusting.
Turns out I was 360 degrees out of whack. Problem solved. All adjusted correctly now.
After a short test run I ran about 80 miles with my wife on back, sounds good, runs well and I swear I'm get a better throttle response from about 2500- 3000 RPM.
New oil and coolant so I'm done for project at the moment.
Next up will be front forks. 25 year old oil can't be the best thing in the world??? Probably coming up in August which is basically my dead of winter for riding.
just drain the oil or vacuum it out. replace with new. add some preventive stop leak https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,126543.0.html |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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Pluggy
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« Reply #10 on: June 02, 2025, 04:09:55 AM » |
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just drain the oil or vacuum it out. replace with new.
[/quote]
Are there instructions on how to do this the easiest way? Instructions I see are for a full rebuild, not an oil change only.
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CoreyP
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« Reply #11 on: June 02, 2025, 04:20:00 PM » |
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just drain the oil or vacuum it out. replace with new.
Are there instructions on how to do this the easiest way? Instructions I see are for a full rebuild, not an oil change only. [/quote] I will probably do a rebuild because there is no simple way to drain the fork oil out of a Valkyrie. I guess it may be possible to vacuum the oil out without disconnecting the forks and all that? I don't have a vacuum that can do that so.... |
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